Phyro builds a SCX10 III

[Phyro]

Hi All,

Got a Christmas present for myself in the form of a new RC kit. I had one of these on preorder at the beginning of the quarantine, but decided decide to get the Enduro instead.

I am planning on just building this one stock at the beginning. I’ll upgrade for performance as time and money allow. Kinda just want it to be available to drive at any point.

Well I did get started on the kit this week. So far I have built the two axles:


On the transmission next, as I am waiting on a shock tool to show up.

As for electronics, I’ll be using the following:
- Tekin RX4
- Tekin ROC412HD 3100kv
- Reefs 555 Servo
- Spektrum DXMR 5 Channel

Not sure on the micro servos to be honest yet. Any recommendations? Also most of those electronics were from my Enduro originally.

I did pick out a color for the body already. It is going to be a metallic purple (absolute favorite color, love Mopars in this color).


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[twade984]

Looks good, that is a nice electronics package.

Only recommendation I have is to avoid the spektrum micro servo. They made it difficult with it being some weird uncommon 23t micro spline and the servo saver, but find something else.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

As crazy as this sounds, I have had extremely good luck with the Traxxas 2065 micro, but if I could choose any, Id go for the EcoPower 640T, but I like the EcoPowe servos so i may be bias lol.

[Phyro]

I actually have one of those little Eco Power servos, was going to use it in a SCX 24 lol. So I would just need the Axial parts set that has the 25T adapter?

Edit: I ordered the parts. Horizon Hobby had them in stock, while the local hobby shop didn’t.

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[Phyro]

Well it was transmission time tonight. I first started by organizing the parts by steps in my parts container.


Thought I was missing some e-clips, but they were just sticking to a bolt. Having everything separated into steps helped quite a bit.

There was a few things that I noticed. The shafts attached to the forks, there are flat spots for holding the shaft. Didn’t see it until the rod end was half way on.

Here is where I am after tonight:



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[Phyro]

I made some progress on the kit this weekend. I got most of the chassis done except the shocks. Waiting on my new shock pliers to show up before building them.

Here is how the truck stands now:


I had to modify the part of the motor cover to get everything to fit. Here is the motor in the truck now (Tekin ROC412HD 3100):

I had to remove a block like section on the back right. You can see some of the Dremel marks still. The plate fit, but it was flush with the motor. The sensor wire wasn’t able to be plugged in while it was attached. And here is the motor cover after being modified:


Here is the cover attached to the truck:



I have also started wiring in the electronics as well. I am going to shorten the servo wires and cover it all up shortly. I’ll show some pics of the routing in a bit.

Another change from stock is the battery tray setup. I am using Spektrum’s aircraft batteries, which are just a bit longer than shorty LiPos. So this was the configuration that I came up with:


The last thing to come will be the ESC, a Tekin RX4 which a bit too big for the stock location. I decided to put the ESC on the rear battery tray instead. I’ll have the switch on the shock tower brace, so I can reach it with body on.


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[Phyro]

Another day and some progress. Today I decided to clean up the cable mess. First I shortened the dig and shift servos. First time really doing this, but really made the chassis clean:

The rest of the tubing will go to the ESC, which will be on the rear battery tray. I want to make a quick disconnect that will attach to the chassis brace in the area.

With the left over cable, I made a servo extension for connecting the lights. Still debating if the Axial light controller I have will be used, or maybe a My Trick RC one will be used.

Should be able to get the soldering done next weekend.


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[Phyro]

Well winter happened lol, so wasn’t able to get back to my parents’ place. So still need to be do some soldering.

In the meantime the Wrangler got some new shoes.


Just some Amazon specials for the actual rims. The “brakes” are +3mm SLW hubs from SSD, and the center hub is also SSD.

I also got my choice of winches now. I picked up a RC4WD Warn and a DSM kinetic system. By the way there is project there actually.



Alright now the fun actually starts. I have been running some drone and aircraft batteries in my other RCs. The stock trays don’t really fit any of these batteries, so to the drawing board.

Here is the batteries in question:

The smaller one 75mm long, and the other is 110mm long. The stock tray base is 90mm long. So a new center piece is needed. After doing some math free hand I cam up with this:

I should be able loosen the screws and adjust the tray length. The tray will still use the Velcro strap, but will have locations for cable management for the motor wires.

I’ll start a cad file this week. If you guys want, I can make it available on my Drive when I get done.

Phyro


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[B-MOW71]

Them brake rotors look sooo good in behind them wheels! I've been meaning to pick up a set of them. They are back on my list!

Looking forward to seeing how the battery tray turns out.

[Phyro]

I got the initial design done over the week. I think I like it so far. The two black parts the new wings.


(Tried highlighting the part). This one is a ESC tray for a Tekin RX4. If my measurement skills are good, I should be able to bolt everything down.

Today has been a bit busy, 70 degree highs, painting time!! I got started with some liquid mask on the inside. Going to paint the black accents first, then the main body color of Metallic Purple. Last inside coat will be a backing of Silver.


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[Phyro]

Well the paint was a bust sadly. Might not had the body clean enough when applying the mask. The purple turned out really splotchy in places. (Body will be the “learner body” for the time being.

Decided to pick up some upgrades for this truck.

Pictured are the SSD brass knuckles and portal covers. Loved their knuckles on the Enduro, so hoping for similar results on the Wrangler. While doing some slight runs around the home, I found the 3100kv 550 to be too much. So in goes a 2200kv 540 from Homes Hobbies.

Before installation
And after installation



Tonight will be some more upgrades, with the rear covers being swapped out, and the new motor getting test fitted.


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[Phyro]

Got the SSD covers added to the rear end now. A couple packages also showed up this week. Decided to go with the kinetic winch. Also a light kit showed up as well.

I picked up a new bumper set as well. It comes from a SCX10 Wrangler JK. Here’s how the Poison Spyder bumper looks on the JL.

And here is the rear bumper for that set.


As for the body... This one was a disaster but will be replace shortly. Decided to go with a light blue and black. Maybe something like this:

Just got an air compressor, so going for an air brushed body instead. Should have a bunch of updates coming soon!


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[Phyro]

Well decided to try out the airbrush again today. I remember why I wasn’t in a hurry to use it again, clogs really badly even when thinning paint. Well still made it through the test body, and glad I did. Didn’t like the blue all that much.


(Trial body is for an SCX24).

I do like the way this concept looks, so maybe white as the primary color and the blue as the secondary color?


I wanted to bring the blue into retro looking graphic similar to the Renegades of old, so ended up with this as my concept:



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[Phyro]

Got the Wrangler on the rocks for the first time this weekend as well. The curse of clicking started on the truck during the run.

During the run, a different clicking started as well. Was getting a loud noise coming from the front end. The ring and pinion was moving into a bad mesh position under load. Ended up shimming the ring gear to take some of the play out.

The original clicking was the square cut pin slot, just wasn’t paying attention when building.



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[Phyro]

Took the truck out for another run today. Diff was clicking towards the end of the run. Probably don’t have it shimmed correctly.

Also started to tape out the body. Needs a bit more finishing on the graphic before paint. Weather should be decent enough to paint.

Here is the tape job:



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[B-MOW71]

Can't wait to see the new body painted! I really like the look of the 1:1 sample pics you posted. The white, black and blue look great together!

Sad to hear about the clicking! I know hearing it really drives me nuts! Glad I was able to get mine figured out! Hopefully you can narrow it down and get rid of it for good!

[Phyro]

The new airbrush works really well! It even cleaned up really well. I got the white main color done tonight. Next up is the blue and the interior will get started as well.

Here is my garage based painting station:

Nothing to complex, but keeps me out of the Midwest wind though.

The paint that I was trying tonight is Mission Models RC White. Had to mix it at 3 parts paint to 1 part reducer. I sprayed it at about 15 psi through a Grex GX3i airbrush.


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[Phyro]

Ended up tapping out the interior as well tonight. Going to start with blue, then white backing, and finally black.



Well tomorrow is blue paint day. Wish me luck!


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[Phyro]

Well disaster struck. While I was cleaning the airbrush, I broke the threads off the nozzle. Should have just snugged it up and not gone forward.

I attempted to use my older airbrush to finish the paint job, but it just clogs constantly and is hard to set right. The problems kept coming sadly from there. Started to get spiderwebs in the paint, and it flakes off really easily.

I am wondering if it was the temperature that I was painting in. Currently highs between 55 and 61. The other body I painted on a 70 degree day turned out really good. Well the 10.3 will be the Purple People Eater for a bit longer.

On a brighter note, my smaller body showed up for the truck. Ended up picking up a MST JP1 body. Picks coming later.


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[Phyro]

Well decided to finish the borked body. Here is the results:


I like how the color scheme turned out, but needs more work.


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