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Old 06-18-2011, 10:14 PM   #81
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Nice work on the install sir. Looks awesome.


It's alright. Once some body panels are released, I'll have to get another set of skinz from you, then have my clear bra installer apply it. It slid back so now I have about .5mm of body panel exposed on the hood sides. Not a big deal since this thing is going to get hammered

Got to get some more pictures and video footage shot with the new look soon.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:27 PM   #82
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Well. First real damage has been found. Part of the front bumper, upper supports that tie into the chassis, is broken. Only part that is holding the front bumper on are the two tiny screws at the lower front.

I'm guessing it was from one of the many front end impacts/crashes it has suffered.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:39 PM   #83
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Well. First real damage has been found. Part of the front bumper, upper supports that tie into the chassis, is broken. Only part that is holding the front bumper on are the two tiny screws at the lower front.

I'm guessing it was from one of the many front end impacts/crashes it has suffered.
I'm going to have to go check mine, this is the 2nd time I've heard that.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:50 PM   #84
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I'm going to have to go check mine, this is the 2nd time I've heard that.
I actually was taking it out of the car, grabbed the front bumper and noticed it flexed a lot.

Right where the top tubes drop down by the RX tray. Busted right off. Looks like I should be able to drill and tap from the bottom to re-attach them with a couple of 3mm screws.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:33 PM   #85
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Took the Wraith to a Scale comp today.

Image thanks to Mitch





Got through about 5 gates before twisting the front drive line. It was my bad. I didn't adjust the end points and caused the dogbone to get dislodged and thus causing the wheels to lock up. As the rig hit the rocks, front drive line let go. Then minutes later the front went too!






Image thanks to Mitch
Last edited by toyofast; 06-26-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 06-27-2011, 03:03 AM   #86
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Come on over!! You can drive it.
You know I would luv to........ You have to keep teasing don't you ....
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:29 PM   #87
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Hey, look what happened to mine over the WCC:



Someone put some prototype Super 300's in it...

;)
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:32 PM   #88
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Hey, look what happened to mine over the WCC:



Someone put some prototype Super 300's in it...

;)
ooooh i need some of those!!!!
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:21 AM   #89
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Are the drivelines something you could put an internal sleeve in the male part? Little more support there may keep them from twisting/colapsing.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:27 AM   #90
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Are the drivelines something you could put an internal sleeve in the male part? Little more support there may keep them from twisting/colapsing.
You need to get inside it to access the 3mm screw that attaches the plastic shaft to CV joint.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:29 AM   #91
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Hey, look what happened to mine over the WCC:



Someone put some prototype Super 300's in it...

;)
AX10 knuckles and C's huh.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:35 AM   #92
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You need to get inside it to access the 3mm screw that attaches the plastic shaft to CV joint.
Ok, a removable sleeve

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AX10 knuckles and C's huh.
?? umm, screw holes are in the wrong spot for ax10 on the c's.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:37 AM   #93
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Are the drivelines something you could put an internal sleeve in the male part? Little more support there may keep them from twisting/colapsing.
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You need to get inside it to access the 3mm screw that attaches the plastic shaft to CV joint.

What would help, is the extra drive shaft parts that are included. Take one of the female slides and cut the end off, fit over the exposed spline, and glue it on. Make sure to leave a little spline exposed!!! It wouldnt be rock solid, but it would help a lot...
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Old 06-28-2011, 12:07 PM   #94
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What would help, is the extra drive shaft parts that are included. Take one of the female slides and cut the end off, fit over the exposed spline, and glue it on. Make sure to leave a little spline exposed!!! It wouldnt be rock solid, but it would help a lot...
I think the plastic just starts to fatigue from the abuse. MIP's would be the best answer.
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:35 PM   #95
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AX10 knuckles and C's huh.
Wraith C's, shaved to fit AX10 8 degree knuckles and Super 300 AX10 stub axles. He didnt have the Wraith stubs done in time.

Hijack off! I'm just trying to get more views for Bert. ;)
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:38 PM   #96
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I think the plastic just starts to fatigue from the abuse. MIP's would be the best answer.


So happy someone else has a camera and uses it in our group!

Mitch caught some footage of my rear shaft before it split...






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Hijack off! I'm just trying to get more views for Bert. ;)


Thanks honey!
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:25 PM   #97
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Love the wrap Toyo!!

At least the failure of these driveshafts is scale. I've seen plenty of twisted splines on 1:1 rigs.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:27 PM   #98
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Love the wrap Toyo!!

At least the failure of these driveshafts is scale. I've seen plenty of twisted splines on 1:1 rigs.
What's cool is that it takes about a minute to repair. Had I known how easy it was, I would have fixed at the comp!
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:36 PM   #99
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What's cool is that it takes about a minute to repair. Had I known how easy it was, I would have fixed at the comp!
Live and learn I guess. Good to hear it's an easy fix.
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Old 06-28-2011, 07:14 PM   #100
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Just got done smoking the stock motor. I knew it was close to it's end!

Good 'ol High Rocks killed it.



Last edited by toyofast; 06-28-2011 at 08:26 PM.
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