04-06-2012, 07:59 AM | #1 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Guam
Posts: 171
| Axial C hubs install
Has anyone used the Axial C hubs for the XR10/Wraith without having any camber, if so what was the position? I've tried a few positions and found one that works but it may be just in my head that the camber is a little off. Just want to make sure that it's installed right.
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04-07-2012, 09:17 AM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Lake Worth
Posts: 748
| Re: Axial C hubs install
Clocking the C-hubs is for approach and bite when turning. I turn mine all the way for the best grab. |
04-08-2012, 12:26 AM | #3 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Guam
Posts: 171
| Re: Axial C hubs install
Are the wheels straight? And can you post some pics?
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04-08-2012, 12:29 AM | #4 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Lake Worth
Posts: 748
| Re: Axial C hubs install
Yeah the wheels will be straight until you turn and then on angle that's how it works though for the wheels to grab better.
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04-08-2012, 02:55 AM | #5 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Guam
Posts: 171
| Re: Axial C hubs install
Yeah, I got mine to be straight but when turning the bottom of the tire really angles in, it looks kinda scary like I could snap an axle hosing when turning, I just wanna make sure that there installed properly, I don't remember an angle when turning in the stocks Cs.
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04-08-2012, 09:51 AM | #6 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Kamloops
Posts: 48
| Re: Axial C hubs install
Caster. Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel when viewed from the front or rear of the wheel/tire and is built into the knuckle (not adjustable on a solid axle configuration except with offset balljoints on 1:1). Its a separate angle from the steering axis inclination that is built into the c-hub which is the projected line created by the positioning of the kingpins (or balljoints, or in this case flanged bushings with screws) viewed on the same plane as camber (perpendicular to the vehicles geometric centerline). Caster is the angle in which you speak which is the projected line created once again by the kingpins but viewed parallel to the vehicles geometric centerline, and is adjustable by clocking the c-hubs on this vehicle. Its viewed by how much the angle is projected in front or behind the center of the tires contact patch (fore/aft). Positive caster is when the projected line is in front of the center of the tires contact patch and negative caster is when the projected line is behind the tires contact patch, so essentially the farthest the c-hub is clocked rearward when looking at the top flange (forward for the bottom flange) is the most positive caster. The primary role of caster in laymans terms is merely the ability of the steering to straighten itself out using the vehicles weight, making a more stable truck at speed. Running zero or negative caster would result in a very unpredictable arrangement where the steering does not straighten itself out as well and could lead to wander and reduced tracking ability. This has nothing to do with toe out on turns, slow speed steering ability and the like as those angles are built into the steering geometry (viewed by triangulation: distance from kingpin axis to tie rod end both perpendicular and parallel to geometric centerline) . So, essentially the more caster (within the range of provided adjustment) the better the return to center ability of the steering, as well as its ability to encounter a bump at speed and not 'jerk' the steering as much, due to the projected line fore of the tires contact patch and the use of the vehicles weight to keep the wheels pointed straight ahead that this angle provides. *Having said all that if you c-hubs are clocked fully rearward when viewing from top and the non adjustable angles dont look right make sure you havent installed your c-hubs upside down. the longer flange should be at the bottom and the shorter at the top. Last edited by BikingViking; 04-08-2012 at 09:57 AM. |
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