West & Down Wraith

[z50king]

Originally Posted by evan03

The servo has less power with the drag link on the outer hole. This way the tires have more leverage on the servo

Maybe he needs more travel for turning the front wheels.

[altd896]

I had to think about that but yeah your right evan03 the servo can make more force on the shorter lever (torque/lever length = force, same torque divided by shorter lever more force).
But don't the tires have less leverage on the servo this way? (force x lever length = torque, same force shorter lever less torque)

Actually it's in the second hole only because the nut hits the tie rod & I didn't have the means at home to sort it out. I was going to put it back in the outer hole when I get to mod the servo mounting plate, but maybe not any more.
I haven't reset my steering ep yet so I might tweak that & see how much steering I've actually got, seeing as I don't crawl so much as trail maybe I've got enough.

Darrell

[Diablo666]

Where did you pick up that sweet shim pack? I need one.

[altd896]

That was from a local rc shop down here, gotta be one available from someone over there somewhere, fasteddy or supershafty maybe?

[altd896]

^ nope, I was wrong, I googled around today & never found a kit like that anywhere other than shops down here. But that's a $18 kit here & shims over there seem to be bout $2 per 10
of any size anywhere online I could find em, RPP/stormer/a-main etc (I'd guess most lhs be similar) compared to the nearly $5 per 10 at lhs here.

[merin_83]

the lights on the hoob are they stock ?

[evan03]

One hole makes a pretty big difrence in steering travel.

I only mentioned anything because none else noticed I also started wondering if every thought there was more servo power set up with a longer arm.

It would kinda make since that a longer arm would have more leverage bug it doesn't in the real worl

[altd896]

Originally Posted by merin_83

the lights on the hoob are they stock ?

They're not stock on the rtr or in the kit, they were part of the exo but Axial has them as a universal kit. They take a 5mm led.
Axial Racing - Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set



I saw them here
Axial Racing - Full Option RTR Wraith

I've got the 5 led string for them as well but that & the 4 lights for the front & the simple controller are giving me grief at the moment.

Only thing I've done different to the kit is I changed which set of braces I used back onto the roof. That very first pic in the thread shows the kit braces back to the stock roof mounting point.
In all the other pics I'd changed it to the longer braces mounted further back & near the center, for no other reason than I liked how that looked
There'll also be some parts leftover, 2 of the saddles to fit another cage work well for the hood hinges.

[altd896]

Ok, so as evan pointed out when I posted this first pic

I'd used only the 2nd hole not the end hole in the servo arm & it was possible I'd lose some steering angle

Turns out with the VP knuckle/arm & tie rod combo I've got (stock arms not ackerman) even using the 2nd servo arm hole the rod end on the tie rod hits the axle housing at the C-hub before I run out of servo travel (if I don't adjust the end point setting, which I have)
So I have as much steering angle as the arms can accomodate, there is however a trap!
Initially with the servo centered I had the arm pointing directly down, @ 6 o'clock position as it appears in the pic above.
This is fine turning right but the trap with this when is turning left the servo arm & drag link become aligned, it runs a direct line at about 4 o'clock from the servo shaft to the rod end bolt on the steering arm. A decent hit on the tire at this point while driving has a good chance of flipping the servo arm over center, turning it up towards 2 o'colck, jamming the whole steering.

Leaving the servo centered I moved the servo arm 1 spline clockwise, towards 7 o'clock. With the eps adjusted it still turns full lock to the right & left but now at left lock the servo arm still points down (roughly half 4) & the drag link runs off at different angle to the arm, as the pic below. No chance of the servo arm being turn over center now.


And yes I realise the VP diff covers are upside down, I hadn't been able reverse the motor direction on the MMP (can't swap motor wires when sensored) Have since found out can change in Castle link software, would be really helpful if the was on the Caste website or instruction leaflets anywhere.

[altd896]

Finally got onto some hills over the weekend, a nature reserve at the back of town in the base of the hills, heaps of walking & fire trails & kangaroo paths that have been a bit eroded & exposed the rocks.

This ones about a 40^o slope up the hill, the crest would be about 15’ maybe 18' high


The rocks aren't huge but I was being a bit cautious first time out.


The views not too bad either & it was a great day for a walk in the hills for the middle of winter


Before it was a reserve they'd dug some gravel outta here so theres a few small pits around, one handed cell pics suck

[altd896]

So to keep my self occupied while the rain tipped down for a few days I added a rear deck, painted grey to match the interior it's mainly to hide the rx & wiring. For the time being it's simply "trapped" by being caught under the rear edge of the interior & the cross piece between the shock mounts.


Some of the Pro-Line scale tools help it to look like it's there for a reason. It doesn't cover the whole rear as I'm still planning how I'm going to mod the rear of the cage.


While I was at it I knocked up a belly plate/boat sides to protect the trans screw heads & try & keep some of the dirt/mud/splashes off the top of the main skid/motor out of some .020" lexan.

Couldn't decide on black or grey like the interior so tried a speckle effect, in hindsight should have just gone black.

[2manyprojects]

Cool idea!!


Sent from the lazy guy on the hard working phone.

[altd896]

Can't claim any credit for the idea, Carter Fab make alu boat sides & I've seen variants of both alu & stainless belly pans here & on ebay but before i paid for 1 to be mailed all the way down here I figured try it in lexan first to see if they interfered at all with the way I drive.

[altd896]

Well just for a giggle I bought a BGR bumper & 3Racing winch from RPP

Had wondered when I got the RCBros servo posts to solve another prob if they would move the servo back far enough to clear the winch plate but turns out not quite, servo body doesn't hit but arm does.
Can fully articulate the front axle without hitting but straight compression of the front end (eg jumping or falling) will hit it.

Have taken a bite out of the winch plate & it's better, haven't put packers under the winch itself yet but that will help more. Still have other ideas to try also. Have raised front end ride height as a compromise solution for now.

[altd896]

My poor Wraith thread has lacked an update for a while now, time some new info.
About 12 months ago I decided to set it up as a 1.9

It sucked badly!
The combination of the long Wraith skid & short links to make the wheelbase look kinda right & the smallish PB RockBeasts meant it didn't do anything particularly well.
But I did like the HeyOK dimmer control & GearHead light bars I'd got from RPP for it.
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...tCode=HEYRCSWD
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...Code=GEASCA013
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...Code=GEASCA017

I disliked it so much I swapped it back to 2.2s

[altd896]

Then about August last year I decided on a 2.2 Trophy U4RC build so the drive train out of the Wraith got ratted for that & it's been sitting a bit sad till a month or so ago.
I had an urge to re-build it as a 1.9 again, maybe to run as a U4RC rig, maybe just a trail rig, but I thought I had a plan on how to fix it's deficiencies from the first time around.
I decided to cut myself some new chassis rails & fit an SCX10 skid & links, this would solve the long skid/short link issues I was having before. Pair this with some TSS Stockerz beadlocks & some Axial BFG Krawlers to solve the short tire & it might just work.

What came about was this in waterjet cut 2mm stainless.

Because I'm not attempting to run Scale2 with this there was no need for full length rails. Secondly I can't quite convince myself I won't want to change back at some stage so I'm resisting cutting the bottom off the stock chassis.
This picks up from the shock mounts front & rear with some ties into the stock chassis in the bottom.
I used a TSS smooth skid & a VP link set for the Deadbolt/G6. Using the Hulksta Engineering smash plates I needed to swap on some Jato ends to the rear lowers to correct the pinion angle down a little.
It's an XR modded front with RCBros Burly tubes, VP C-hubs & scale knuckles. The rear is stock width SCX10. VP SLW hubs, 350 in the front, 850 in the rear & the width is just a hair narrower in the rear. LockedUp acorn nut wheel studs for a little added scaleness (I don't think that's a word really)

So far pretty happy with how it handles, it has good speed with the Tekin 13.5T sensored brushless on 3s & crawls pretty good given it's a little on the top heavy side.

In one of my orders from RPP I was able to add in a few scale bits without it adding to the post so this rig got some limit straps, a HeyOK KOH light controller for the EXO rear light bar & fire extinguisher. The sand ramps are some offcuts of steel perf mesh from here at work.
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...de=HEYKOHBKLED
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...Code=KBM-WTHOR
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...de=YEA-YA-0352

[altd896]

Here's an underside shot showing the screws & hex spacers tying my rails to the stock chassis.

Under the hood you can see the rail coming up to the shock mount

And in the rear to the shock mount (sorry bout the terrible pic, I'll try get a better one later)

[altd896]

I forgot the more "overall" pics