Another Wraith Body Mod

[schuimpge]

Hello All,
Been reading a lot on this forum, great information and pictures.
Eventually decided to get into RC-Cars and started with an RTR Wraith with the thought of upgrading, modding etc.

After a week of playing around and looking at all the information here, this weekend changed the links, installed skid plates under the axles and changed the hubs, knuckles and steering links to aluminium.

Still need to get universals for the front, but that'll be in the coming weeks.

What I did start on is the cage. Have searched and checked quite some mods here, started cutting and finished the basic work yesterday.
Can't post any pictures yet..too bad. but hoping to be able soon..

Cheers,
Luc

[schuimpge]

Ok.. after reading a bit more, found the easiest way to post pictures..

What I did:
I wanted of course get rid of the cage, get a fast back look. I had ordered an extra set of lower links, but them being aluminium, they would not fit nicely.
So instead of sandwiching them between plastic frame parts, the top side is mounted on the outside..

Since I flipped the rear shock-mounts, my battery tray would not connect anymore. But with slightly bending the battery supports up, I found that the aluminium links would fit perfectly between the battery box supports.

I took the two very long screws out of the back side, and used them to secure the aluminium link between the two mounting-holes.

Next I cut the C & D pillars the avoid getting things out of shape.. Used part of it the make a connection from the side to the higher back.

After that, cut the remaining part of the cage and started sanding/cutting some parts.

Not finished yet, but it starts to move into a direction I like...

[schuimpge]

Next step will be to epoxy the lower connection of the newly fitted corners. Top will remain screw-in. Subsequently sanding, paint, etc.
I'm looking to fit a Yeti type of spoiler on the back side, and/or a spare tire.

The back side of the chassis became very solid with this modification. Also, because the shock-mounts are connected again to the battery-box, it helps to reduce twisting the mounts inside.

Body panels not decided yet.

[schuimpge]

Just a quick update..
Did some work again on the wraith.

Got tired of lifting up, turning around and moving about with the truck.
So took an old VESA mount and mounted that on a piece of wood.
Loosened the bolts just slightly and put 2 long screws in the top that slide exactly between skid-plate and the tube-frame of the wraith.

Some vinyl to make the base look good and I now got a perfect stand for the wraith to work on it, to test engine and electronics, etc..
Very stable, easy to put it into any possible angle and looks nice.

Cheers,
Luc

[COwraith]

Looks good! Very original I like the "lip" in the back, any plans for spare tire mount? That stand is money!

[Bada Bing]

Great Idea!

[schuimpge]

Originally Posted by COwraith

Looks good! Very original I like the "lip" in the back, any plans for spare tire mount? That stand is money!

Thanks COwraith.. For the lip, I'm still thinking on how to dress that up.
My plans are to form it into a rear spoiler of sorts, leaning towards a Yeti Look...but not firmed up yet.
Spare Tire will definitely go there once I get new wheels.
Interior will take a while, but that will get a far more realistic look than the stock cockpit.

Very happy with the stand. Didn't cost more than a dollar with the scrap VESA mount... The bolts have nylon thread so they don't come loose easily.

Cheers,
Luc

[schuimpge]

Had problems with slop in the lockers Chubs. After some searching I found the easiest solutions where to:
1. Replace the self-tappers with bolts.
2. Put in 2 extra bolts per Chub/Locker.

No. 1 works already a great deal. But number 2 really makes a difference!
See the picture below, instead of putting in 2 extra bolts, I've gone with a small self-tapper first to see how it holds up.
Still need to do the bottom-side of both Chubs, but this really makes it strong compared to the flimsy screw holding it together before.

One thing I've been looking at is to put bolts all the way through. I think it would just keep the axles free if I use the existing openings in the Chubs.
Waiting for the Universals coming in before I give that a try.

Oh. That table works wonders!

[o0wiz0o]

I know they are a little expensive but the VP Clamping C-hubs are great and solve the slop issues once and for all. Even on the badly designed VP stock axle casings!

[schuimpge]

Originally Posted by o0wiz0o

I know they are a little expensive but the VP Clamping C-hubs are great and solve the slop issues once and for all. Even on the badly designed VP stock axle casings!

Thanks for the advise..think I saw some pictures on another forum. That guy basically solved the issue with bolts from the inside of the axles through the Chubs with Nylock Bolts on the outside...
But will keep that in mind. See how this holds first, then try the mod with 2 through bolts on each Chub and lockout.

[surgetek]

Strong work on the stand. I may have to go dumpster diving for mounts at work.

[RockBiter]

I have seen wall mounts for a TV or monitor that might work as well, killer idea for sure.

[Stangracer68]

best idea for a rc stand yet. i love it. I work in IT so im making one tonight! monitor stand ftw!

[schuimpge]

Thanks guys for the comments.
I put a separate thread on Tools section.
Think I'm going to rename it to: "Show your Car Stand" lol.
But might be fun to see what everybody has..
Cheers,
Luc

[schuimpge]

Originally Posted by Stangracer68

best idea for a rc stand yet. i love it. I work in IT so im making one tonight! monitor stand ftw!

Stan, you finished your stand already? If so, show some pics of it with your car on it..!

[schuimpge]

Did quite some stuff on the Wraith this weekend.
First tested looks with a spare tire on the back as it was..
With the original 2.2s that looks crap, doesn't fit low enough.

So take off the rear-end and try again..
Tire can fit lower, but not convinced yet.

I also started working on a new roof, it's sheet metal that I hammered in shape.
More on the roof later...

[schuimpge]

But with taking off the back-side, including the battery-tray, the whole structure becomes way too flexible. So had to stiffen that up as the shock-mounts had no stiffness at all anymore.

Still had 2 more Orange links, and found that they fit perfectly from the bottom of the frame to the same sway-bar rod at the back-side!
So started putting them in and added some spacers to stop the links moving left and right..

[schuimpge]

With the rear stiffened up, I still had trouble with the shock-mounts so changed that too...
The whole shock-mount assembly went out and the shocks mounted midway on the back of the cabin frame. To make sure they would not flex or bend the cabin, I've put in 2 steel plates that brace it on the inside..

Backside is now very rigid and there's loads of stuff taken out which will help me shape the back of the car..

[schuimpge]

With the back-side ok for now, I started work on new roof, sides and hood.
Initially I thought to go with sheet-metal and got the roof-shape done quite fast. But after trying to get a shape in the back of the car to replace the battery-box with its screws that stiffen the bottom supports, I realised that it would not be the way to go forward. The problem is simply that the material is too difficult to work on such small items without expensive machines/tools.

So started trying something else and that looks to work very well.
I used the roof-shape I had already as the mould for plastic. First test I used a white plastic tray. Just lay on top of the metal and start heating it with a heat-gun.
Quickly found that it's better to cut a piece almost to size to avoid wrinkling and warping of the plastic, so cut excess from the tray and put it on the metal form again.
Results after several times heating, cutting some more, using a metal ruler to drape the sides over the steel, it is really starting to get where I want it.
Still need to shape the front droop of the metal mould before adding to detail it.

It did give me ideas for the overall look and colors though.
Most likely going with a Canvas Roof & Panels look. Got some ideas already to get the sides done.
Back-side not sure yet.

[schuimpge]

Last part I did was the battery-tray.
Piece of sheet metal again, 2 clips and 2 bolts.
Receiver box way up front with zip-ties, ESC in the middle.
No modifications on cables necessary. Tight fit, but it's changed the behaviour of the car like day and night. Much more fun to drive, very light on the back-side, easy to throw the back around..