slw hub question

[slapjack]

I just noticed that I can pull my front wheels out away from the axle (push and pull back and forth) a good 1/16"- 1/8". It's kinda hard to see what's going on on the backside of the heel but it's either the slw hub sliding back and forth on the 12mm hex or it's the 12mm hex sliding back and forth on the axle outdrive section. And I can't tighten the nut down any further. Is this a normal amount of play with the slw hub or the 12mm axial hex? Would it be better if I got the VP 12mm hex?

[mikebecher]

What king of diff lockers do you have? It's probably the entire axle shaft sliding in and out of the locker. I put VP VVDs and a Holmes locker up front. It will still slide but not as much and it takes some force to move it.

[slapjack]

I have axial shafts and incision lockers. But i am pretty sure that's not the case on mine cause the shafts are so tight in the locker I can't even take them apart by hand. I have to put it in a vice then use a heavy tool to knock em apart.

[mikebecher]

Originally Posted by slapjack

I have axial shafts and incision lockers. But i am pretty sure that's not the case on mine cause the shafts are so tight in the locker I can't even take them apart by hand. I have to put it in a vice then use a heavy tool to knock em apart.

Ah, now I see. The Axial shafts aren't threaded far enough for some hex/hub combinations. You can stick a washer or two behind the wheel nut to take out the slop.

[slapjack]

Originally Posted by mikebecher

Ah, now I see. The Axial shafts aren't threaded far enough for some hex/hub combinations. You can stick a washer or two behind the wheel nut to take out the slop.

Ah cool. Thanks man

[DrewHammer]

You may also need to shim between the hex and the bearing. I find this pretty common on a lot of rc's, the pin is located too far away from the bearing. I assume you're still using the axial wraith wheel hex with the nipple on it?

[Alexander_0_1]

Shimming between the wheel and the locknut won't help, I think the issue is pin location the on axial hex hubs that have the collar on the wheel side (not sure where the pin is located on the narrow versions).

I had the same issue when trying to use either VP, or Axial hex hubs w/collar on my ascender.

If your willing to give it a try, Vaterra ascender hex hubs have more material behind the screw shaft, at least 1.5-3mm.

[slapjack]

Originally Posted by DrewHammer

You may also need to shim between the hex and the bearing. I find this pretty common on a lot of rc's, the pin is located too far away from the bearing. I assume you're still using the axial wraith wheel hex with the nipple on it?

Ya now that I'm looking closer at it looks
Like the wheel the slw hub and 12mm hex are all sliding together so shimming between the hex and bearing is prolly what I'll have to do or us HH the accender hub like mentioned in the last post. Thanks guys. Anyone know by chance if the VP wraith 12mm hex hub has more material behind the pin like the accender hex?

[slapjack]

I just got everything together on my truck. This is my first truck with solid axles. Like I said I used the axial universals in the front. So when I steer I notice 2 things. 1. I am running PL super swampers and every other lug on the outer edge of tire sticks out further than the others so it rubs on the lower links so I had to dial back the steering to 75% which makes the turning radius kinda suck. The other thing I notice is how notchy it is when it steers I'm guessing because of the solid axle and also the universal style axles? Do the VP vvd's solve that and make it turn smooth? Or will I be notchy like that when I turn that no matter what?

[Correll]

I had to use a small shim between the bearing and hex on my front also. The 75% steering sounds normal. And the choppy steering may be the universals still binding on themselves, or just how a locked front axle turns and you arent used to it yet. I dont think the vvds turn sharper than the axial u-joints tho.