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Old 08-27-2017, 06:01 PM   #41
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Just got back from watching the new Spider-Man. Was hoping for more of that blonde but she wasn't in this one.

I also got a sack of these in m3 but have yet to use any.
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:30 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by MRCrackhead View Post
Technically speaking, is it actually "camo" paint, or just 3 cans of paint???? LOL


Yes and yes.
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:15 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Brake Weight View Post
I bought a small metric tap/die set for all my RCs. I'll chuck the rod into my cordless drill the put the die into its wrench and run the rod into it as I hold it still with my feet. I'll mark the rod where I want to stop at so that the mark gets cut away with the die. Actually pretty simple to do once you figure out the measurements of it all. Now my DeWalt has had both batteries die I'm going to need another drill. I refuse to pay $80 for a single battery when I can get a new drill and two batteries for $40 more.

Edit: a bench vise would make it easier to do but I just do it from my rolling stool.
I have a tap and die set. Problem is I can't hardly get it started. Slips like crazy in my vise. I'll have to try the power drill method. So how do you thread the second side?

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Old 08-27-2017, 09:17 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Brake Weight View Post
I bought a small metric tap/die set for all my RCs. I'll chuck the rod into my cordless drill the put the die into its wrench and run the rod into it as I hold it still with my feet. I'll mark the rod where I want to stop at so that the mark gets cut away with the die. Actually pretty simple to do once you figure out the measurements of it all. Now my DeWalt has had both batteries die I'm going to need another drill. I refuse to pay $80 for a single battery when I can get a new drill and two batteries for $40 more.

Edit: a bench vise would make it easier to do but I just do it from my rolling stool.
Hey just an idea, but we have had great luck with having the batteries repacked at a place like all pack battery store. Or you could buy your own cells and solder up tabs and repack your own batteries for a fraction of the cost.

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Old 08-27-2017, 09:24 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Motorider View Post
I have a tap and die set. Problem is I can't hardly get it started. Slips like crazy in my vise. I'll have to try the power drill method. So how do you thread the second side?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


The dies I have are a hex shape. I got them at Lowes but I don't remember the brand. The cardboard in the package is yellow.

For the other side just flip it and chuck the newly threaded end. My 18v DeWalt was big enough to swallow the threads and not scar them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorider View Post
Hey just an idea, but we have had great luck with having the batteries repacked at a place like all pack battery store. Or you could buy your own cells and solder up tabs and repack your own batteries for a fraction of the cost.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I forgot about that. I'll open one tomorrow and see if it's got the 18650 batteries. Not a bad idea at all.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:09 PM   #46
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I'm curious about how those inserts work. I was going to get them but I found the coils and went with them instead.
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Old 08-28-2017, 02:29 PM   #47
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I'm curious about how those inserts work. I was going to get them but I found the coils and went with them instead.


I haven't needed them yet. But I've got an SCX10 tranny that will soon or buy a new case. They work about the same as a helicoil I suppose.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:46 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Farabomb View Post
I'm curious about how those inserts work. I was going to get them but I found the coils and went with them instead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brake Weight View Post
I haven't needed them yet. But I've got an SCX10 tranny that will soon or buy a new case. They work about the same as a helicoil I suppose.
It would be interesting to know the pros and cons of either version.
On paper, they seem to both be good ideas.
Brake Weight's require drilling the holes oversized. Then you jamb/glue them in, correct?
No biggie if the hole is already damaged.
If the surrounding material is thin, this could be a concern.
Not sure about Farabomb's coils. If they don't require drilling, could be an advantage.....??
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:24 PM   #49
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The ones I have do require drilling but I don't think it's as much as the inserts. My caliper reads 3.1 on the bit so it's minimal. I've done both brand new and stripped holes and the brand new does fare better. I had issues with one of the stripped ones but got it to work. I'd think the inserts would do better in already trashed holes with some meat around them and the coils do best in new holes with little room around them.

These are the ones I bought.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:21 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Farabomb View Post
The ones I have do require drilling but I don't think it's as much as the inserts. My caliper reads 3.1 on the bit so it's minimal. I've done both brand new and stripped holes and the brand new does fare better. I had issues with one of the stripped ones but got it to work. I'd think the inserts would do better in already trashed holes with some meat around them and the coils do best in new holes with little room around them.

These are the ones I bought.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That's really good info regarding one vs the other.
Seems they both have their place in the tool box.
Thanks for detailing that out for the rest of us.
Thanks for the link too.
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:19 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by 84yoda View Post
Anyone find the part number for just those HPI ball/stand offs?
Stumbled across them looking for something else this morning.

HPI Racing 101253 Stand Off Balls 5.8x14mm (5)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-...4AAOSwAANY6U3i
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:15 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Brake Weight View Post
Stumbled across them looking for something else this morning.

HPI Racing 101253 Stand Off Balls 5.8x14mm (5)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-...4AAOSwAANY6U3i
Thanks. Right after I posted, I found some online and ordered them.
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:16 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brake Weight View Post
I also got a sack of these in m3 but have yet to use any.
I REALLY NEED 2 or 3 of those M3 inserts!! Now!! I stripped the threads on my front Axle - where the Chubs get locked down.....

Ideally, I would get Beef Tubes or just new Axles..... but I literally DON'T see that kind of money.
Where did you get those, and how much, if you don't mind saying. Also, did you notice if I could just get a package of 4??

Thanks, and I'm seeing your Posts for the first time. LOTS of great money saving ideas!!!
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:20 AM   #54
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Something like this

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F302263796638
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:07 PM   #55
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Just about.......
6mm would be WAY too long for the Axle Body, and I really didn't want to wait until the END of April to get them!! For whatever reason, China Shipments to the U.S. take LONGER than Canada, South America, UK or Europe....

That's OK! A few more clicks, and I found 3x3mm threaded inserts from Hong Kong, delivered by 12 March!
Too bad though... the one in your link were about a Penny a piece!
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Old 05-19-2018, 09:06 PM   #56
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I put a fresh paint job on a week ago and finally took it for a thrashing. Had a little fun but the dry conditions weren’t working out. I’ll go again tomorrow and get a few action pics. I should’ve brought a different crawler on my trip to handle the dusty birms here.
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Old 05-20-2018, 08:52 PM   #57
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I took it for a spin today.


But after a decent tumble, this ensued. Looks like I’m leaning towards metal wheels from here on out.
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