Wraith transmission rebuild internals

[Clemsoncrawler]

Just ordered a hot racing aluminum tranny housing fer my wraith. Finally killed the stock motor and esc in the snow. Going to build it for a brushless 3s setup. I have the axial hardened steel 3 gear set so far. Saw a Robinson racing hardened one piece bottom differential gear. Is this a part for the transmission I should order to beef it up? Never messed with an axial transmission. Also, is the stock motor plate aluminum, or would I need to order the axial aluminum motor plate? Thanks for any help. Gona start a tare down after I finish this Ultra body.

[TheLetterJ]

I'm not a fan of the RR 1 piece gear as I've seen more than one break the output shaft off. I'd stick with the gears you have. If you really think you want/need beefier outputs, you can buy 6mm outputs from SuperShafty, you'll need the corresponding driveshafts (or just the driveshaft ends if you're already running MIP shafts) to go with it. I've not felt the need for the 6mm outputs, even running 3500kv on 4s (and every once in awhile 6s!) or a Revolver on 4s. The stock motor plate is aluminum (assuming we're NOT talking about a 1.9" Wraith?) I believe 3mm thick, but it isn't anywhere near as rigid as a 4mm SuperShafty (or other) plate that incorporates the entire backside of the spur gear (same footprint as the spur cover instead of just big enough for the trans bolts to pass through like the stock one.) The stock motor plate's flex was only really noticeable when I was running 48p spur/pinion and the flex would open up the mesh enough to eat the spur, switching to 32p solved that permanently, so I wouldn't call the motor plate a "must have."
I would suggest changing the top shaft and running a slipper eliminator though. The stock clutch tends to slip no matter how tight you make it once you start feeding big power through it, especially if you have the old single disc style. Or, if you would like to run a clutch, switch to a RR 32p slipper clutch/steel spur meant for a Traxxas Slash (it has more surface area and better friction material so it's actually got some useful range of adjustment and can survive a lot of power without slipping.) I prefer plastic spurs and a slipper eliminator myself.

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I'm not a fan of the RR 1 piece gear as I've seen more than one break the output shaft off. I'd stick with the gears you have. If you really think you want/need beefier outputs, you can buy 6mm outputs from SuperShafty, you'll need the corresponding driveshafts (or just the driveshaft ends if you're already running MIP shafts) to go with it. I've not felt the need for the 6mm outputs, even running 3500kv on 4s (and every once in awhile 6s!) or a Revolver on 4s. The stock motor plate is aluminum (assuming we're NOT talking about a 1.9" Wraith?) I believe 3mm thick, but it isn't anywhere near as rigid as a 4mm SuperShafty (or other) plate that incorporates the entire backside of the spur gear (same footprint as the spur cover instead of just big enough for the trans bolts to pass through like the stock one.) The stock motor plate's flex was only really noticeable when I was running 48p spur/pinion and the flex would open up the mesh enough to eat the spur, switching to 32p solved that permanently, so I wouldn't call the motor plate a "must have."
I would suggest changing the top shaft and running a slipper eliminator though. The stock clutch tends to slip no matter how tight you make it once you start feeding big power through it, especially if you have the old single disc style. Or, if you would like to run a clutch, switch to a RR 32p slipper clutch/steel spur meant for a Traxxas Slash (it has more surface area and better friction material so it's actually got some useful range of adjustment and can survive a lot of power without slipping.) I prefer plastic spurs and a slipper eliminator myself.

Do you use the Locked Up RC slipper Eliminator? What plastic spur gear are you using?

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[Clemsoncrawler]

I just emailed rpp hobby to see which locked up slipper eliminator works with the wraith tranny. There is one on locked up’s website and 2 on rpp, one fer “scx10” and one says “scx10”, but I’m definitely going to go this route as yall have suggested. Will stick with the stock outputs, and go with a plastics spur. I don’t know the current spur, it’s what came stock on the spawn rtr. I’m thinking in the 50’s? End goal is running a roc412 3100kv sensored on 3s if that helps. Thanks dor any extra advice. Wana donit right the first time ya know?

[TheLetterJ]

I want to say I have this one? https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...C0820&CartID=1 I liked that it eliminates one of the 2mm pins from the equation by having flats on the shaft instead of a hole drilled through the shaft... and it's one of the cheaper options. I'm running a 32p 60t Delrin spur from RC4WD, but I've got a 54t from Kimbrough, a 58t hardened steel from Hot Racing, and I think 4x4 Slash spurs bolt up too (its been awhile since I've changed gearing.)

Either way, that one will fit your transmission Clemsoncrawler. Your stock spur should be a 32p 56t, but it won't work with a slipper eliminator since it is designed to be sandwiched between slipper pads/discs, you'll need the kind with 3 holes in it (or you can drill your own.) How fast are you looking to top out at (or is slow/in control your priority?) This calculator is handy for figuring out what gearing will get you there: https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

[Clemsoncrawler]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I want to say I have this one? https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...C0820&CartID=1 I liked that it eliminates one of the 2mm pins from the equation by having flats on the shaft instead of a hole drilled through the shaft... and it's one of the cheaper options. I'm running a 32p 60t Delrin spur from RC4WD, but I've got a 54t from Kimbrough, a 58t hardened steel from Hot Racing, and I think 4x4 Slash spurs bolt up too (its been awhile since I've changed gearing.)

Either way, that one will fit your transmission Clemsoncrawler. Your stock spur should be a 32p 56t, but it won't work with a slipper eliminator since it is designed to be sandwiched between slipper pads/discs, you'll need the kind with 3 holes in it (or you can drill your own.) How fast are you looking to top out at (or is slow/in control your priority?) This calculator is handy for figuring out what gearing will get you therhttps://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

I’m looking to have a higher speed rig out of it. Thanks for the info and links. Most definitely helpful. I’ll play around with different set ups and go from there. Probably upgrade to the heavier duty axial gears in the axle and use the calculator u referenced to see if I want the overdrive gears or not. The only thing that I’m worried about is excessive torque twist. It already had a bit with the weak stock gear. Thanks fer the advice! I’ve got a lot to learn. Ha

[MaX-D]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I want to say I have this one? https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...C0820&CartID=1 I liked that it eliminates one of the 2mm pins from the equation by having flats on the shaft instead of a hole drilled through the shaft... and it's one of the cheaper options. I'm running a 32p 60t Delrin spur from RC4WD, but I've got a 54t from Kimbrough, a 58t hardened steel from Hot Racing, and I think 4x4 Slash spurs bolt up too (its been awhile since I've changed gearing.)



Either way, that one will fit your transmission Clemsoncrawler. Your stock spur should be a 32p 56t, but it won't work with a slipper eliminator since it is designed to be sandwiched between slipper pads/discs, you'll need the kind with 3 holes in it (or you can drill your own.) How fast are you looking to top out at (or is slow/in control your priority?) This calculator is handy for figuring out what gearing will get you there: https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

With the 60T spur, can you still use the spur gear cover? I'm thinking about switching over to the slipper Eliminator with a 60T spur and 9t pinion on my Wroncho for more slow crawling control.

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[Clemsoncrawler]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I want to say I have this one? https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...C0820&CartID=1 I liked that it eliminates one of the 2mm pins from the equation by having flats on the shaft instead of a hole drilled through the shaft... and it's one of the cheaper options. I'm running a 32p 60t Delrin spur from RC4WD, but I've got a 54t from Kimbrough, a 58t hardened steel from Hot Racing, and I think 4x4 Slash spurs bolt up too (its been awhile since I've changed gearing.)

Either way, that one will fit your transmission Clemsoncrawler. Your stock spur should be a 32p 56t, but it won't work with a slipper eliminator since it is designed to be sandwiched between slipper pads/discs, you'll need the kind with 3 holes in it (or you can drill your own.) How fast are you looking to top out at (or is slow/in control your priority?) This calculator is handy for figuring out what gearing will get you there: https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

Ended up going with the slipper eliminator you suggested, and a hot racing 56t, 32p steel spur. Gona mess around with that speed calculator to see if I’ll go under or overdrive in the axles, but definitely upgrading to the axial hd ring and pinion since the slipper is out of the equation.

[TheLetterJ]

MaxD: Yes, I run the spur cover with 60/9, there's marks inside from the occasional "kiss" when my battery has shifted and smacked the gear cover. The joint of my MIP front shaft is DAMN close to hitting the spur, and probably would make contact at full bump if I didn't have a tummy tuck or if I were running a very low ride height?

Clemsoncrawler: even when I had my Wraith set up for stupid-fast speeds (3400kv on 4s, 1.8:1 transmission, 20/54 gearing) I still ran underdrive in the rear. The overdrive gears don't mesh very well and have less tooth contact than the standard or underdrive gears do. The hardened gears are a good idea though, I'd just skip the overdrive and make it up at the motor pinion if you feel the need for more speed. On that note, make sure you only use hardened pinions with that spur, a standard steel pinion will quickly turn to dust when run with a hardened spur.

[Clemsoncrawler]

Got ya. Parts will start arriving soon to at least start a tare down! So I’ll run the axial hd stock ratio in the front and hd underdrive in the rear, and I’ll find a good hardened pinion. I think u said the stock out drives were just fine, I’ll look back at your comments to double check. Well. Awesome. I’m ready to start wrocking this wraith. Ha

[Clemsoncrawler]

Thanks fer all the wisdom btw. I’m sure I’ll hit u up if I hit a snag!