The XR10 Setup Sheets are now available: Click here for the blank Setup Sheet!

Click here for my setup from Nationals 2010.

http://axialracing.com/wordpress/wp-...tups/image.jpg

Good idea"thumbsup"

Brandon, you guys have any team set up's yet? I've seen the builds but knowing the little stuff will be great as well.

Great idea Axial. Obviously Scott moving in there has paid off.

Just added it to the post above "thumbsup" Cant wait to see these sheets being used by everyone.

BENDER and Scott are working on there setup sheets as well.

If u read this and haven't already done this it is a good tip for the build process of the upper shock mount. If u have noticed in the build the manual instructed to put the rubber bushings in the top of the shocks.

If u look at some of the extra plastic shock parts u will see one that has plastic ball swivels like for rod ends, put those into the top of the shock then re mount them, but make sure u put the flat side where u put the nut on to hold the shock on other wise it will try and come off.

This should help the movement of the shocks and let the suspension work a little better it helped mine anyways!! Hope it helps guys!! :mrgreen:

awesome idea guys!!!

suddenly i can see the nitro/ep rc race setup resemblance here which i use quite often on my other rc class interest. never thought it will be used in rock crawling too.

Awesome guys. "thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"

That's what she said...


Sorry could not resist. hectic work day needs a little stupidity to get me through it.

Good tip though, Will use it on my build.

I started a thread just for the setup sheets and tuning:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/272459-axial-xr10-setup-sheet-tuning-guide.html

Here's a great tip for the battery mount. Can be done with what you have already. Then you can easily get an 1800, 1500, or 1300 in and have your CG as low as possible.

Removed battery tray and dremeled it, flipped it, and mounted it upside down on radio tray. Then bent the mounting tab downwards.

Its must be ur rig setup but i checked my flex with the rubber pieces i sat the truck down with one front tire right on top of a regular spray paint can and it flexed but when i put the plastic swivle ones in there and just snugged it up i put it back onto the spray paint can and got about a half inch more flex!! so must be your rig! "thumbsup"

like i said it is your rig then i see u still have the stock position in the shocks my shock mounts have been moved to the outside of the frame and still have a spacer between them also so it makes a diff on mine is what i am sayin thats all man lol

Also when i was looking at mine it never touched the outside flange on the ball! plus it seemed stiffer with the rubber than the plastic but good pic and im sure it will help people withe stock setups!!

ok i was just saying the plastics work better in mine!! my $.02 thats all!! great pic btw!! "thumbsup"

I found mine to have considerable slop where the lower links connect at the skid. The links slid back and forth on the mounting screw. To rectify this I used a 1mm washer to the outside of each rod end.

http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/...R10/shimit.jpg

I did the excat samething DickyT..I was wondering if there would be any detrimental effect to doing this though?.It sure is a sloppy area.

Also noticed that you spaced out your front uppers like the rears..Does this make a difference at all?..Great tips from everyone"thumbsup"..Thanks

I also did this with the front shock mounts to keep it from pulling on the tabs to close the gap.

^^ Did that as well

i just made a small lexan tray that the lower links clear no problems
also you can get to the esc settings with ease..

This tip is obvious to us seasoned crawlers, but will be great for the newbies.

Drill and tap your lower links to accept 4mm studs.

You will need an m4 x.07 tap.

Then install traxxas jato ends. http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Traxxas-J...5-p-17901.html
They are just like Revo ends but longer. Cut them to the same length as stock, or add a mm to each to stretch your wheelbase out to 12.5".
You can get 4mm studs from associated, venom, kyosho etc. I prefer these on ebay that are 20mm and steel: http://cgi.ebay.com/M4-x-20mm-Socket...item2a0396c15a

This works best with the machined lower links but you could do it with your stockers. If you are doing this with the machined links, you will need to use the bent rod end that Bender used on his front machined lower link. Just tap it to 4mm. It is plenty thick. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1282062940

The machined links pictured below have been upgraded

This tip will give you bulletproof links so you won't have to worry about those 3mm ends breaking, or pulling out.

Thanks to Fa1rch1ld for turning me onto the jato ends. I'd never seen them until recently and they are worth their weight in gold because of their extra length compared to revo ends. Trim to fit"thumbsup"
They could come in really hand at comps too when rig is just a hair out of spec. Just trim the jatos a hair, and you are good to go"thumbsup"

Something stupid and small but the body mounts make it a pain to get the clips in and out. I took an old 46g guitar string and ran it through the hole. Using it as a file I slotted the little holes at an angle to match the angle of the body and scoop. Made it way easier to get the clips in and out............Now lets see if they stay in.

I know the slop in the rear has been talked about in other threads... But here it goes..

To get rid of the rear (side to side) slop in the axles... (stock lockouts)...

Use a .5mm (.020") shim on each axle...
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...d/DSC_4194.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...d/DSC_4203.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...d/DSC_4199.jpg