Here's a good tip for bullet proof steering

Everyone has probably already changed their rod ends to 4mm revos, and that's what I used here too (Tra5347).

The steering drag link is 1/4" steel round stock, bent, drilled, and tapped to 4mm (Local Hardware Store)

My measurement after bends is 147.5mm - bare link end to end (Not eye to eye)

Measures 180mm eye to eye w/ bends and revo ends w/ V.P. Knuckles & Chubs (Same length for straight as well)

The servo link is made from a 4mm lunsford ti turnbuckle and traxxas jato rod ends (tra5525)

Link doesn't drag and barely hangs as you can see in pic. And I chose steel because it's not soft like aluminum and will slide over rocks easily

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=15238

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=15239

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=15240

Axial set-up sheets
 

Scott, Brandon and myself just posted our XR10 set-up sheets on Axial's website on the instructions page.

My set-up:
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/pdfs/...psheet_web.pdf

Scott's set-up:
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/pdfs/...psheet_web.pdf

Brandon's set-up:
http://www.axialracing.com/ftp/pdfs/...psheet_web.pdf

For those who are using Losi springs they are loose on the Axial cups. The Losi spring cups will work just great"thumbsup"

Good tip, I had the same "problem" but I just use my pliers to make last coil little smaller. It helped also.

Small cut of shrink tube over cup and spring keep your cups safe. They tend to loose sometime.

Also if you have really small zip-ties, you can zip-tie the spring to the lower retainer.

EDIT. This ended up not working. Delete

What's this knuckle mod I hear people talking about to get more steering?(How you do it)

go to the bathroom and stand infront of the mirror and punch your self in the face;-)

Wait this ended up not working , please don't try;-);-);-)

If there is no knuckle mod than just say there isn't. No need to act like a jackass...:roll:

Oh, but there is.http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/275030-tons-steering-stock-parts.html
Dont punk yourself in the face. Do what is in the thread above.

If you clock the front inner C's back all the way (most amount of caster possible), you get the most amount of steering with stock components without the tires stuffing into the links/shocks. My Rovers barely rub the links now after clocking the C's back and that's full steering lock to lock with stock wheels.

Need help with the Electronics
 

Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran

i found that you should shim the front/rear upper links on the Axle side... i fear that tightening it down too much will have some drawbacks.

hello Imran,

the Tekin FXR should fit cleanly, with the Dual ESC mount for the electrics plate... as for wiring i just see people try to do it their own way.. either messy, or clean. whatever works

Thought Id post this for anyone running Dirty Harry's up front but wishing their track width was narrower. I switched out my hex' to some CKRC's and lost over a 1/4".

http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/ckrc-alu...t2-p-2539.html

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x...en/003-135.jpg

Clipless xr-10 body mount:
the clipless options.

Materials needed:
time: about 5min, + time to go to osh or local hardware
money: about $8-9 depends on location and tax
hands or needle nose pliers

3 nylon screws, 5/16 X (your option in length) im using 1 inch for a really low body
6 nylon nuts, 5/16

i found out the 5/16 fits really snug with the axial stock body mount option, i used that and got the 5/16, it screws in too. with the 2 nuts per 1 screw, use the 1 screw to hold the body in position and the other to actually hold onto the body "thumbsup"
So i went to osh to pick up the screws and nuts:
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_5288.jpg

Screws with Serial number:
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_5290.jpg

Nuts with Serial Number:
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_5291.jpg

After finished:
http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/IMG_5292.jpg

this how i did mine."thumbsup"
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...5fa63644ca.jpg

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...c0d39087ac.jpg
i mounted them on a custom electronics tray i made out of fiberglass and epoxy blend. i used the stock axial esc mount then mounted it to the tray. hope this helps. good luck

another idea is to look in the rubber washer section of a hard rubber tapper washer that is 1 size to small that will allow the threads to bite into the rubber.

Zip ties from shock cup to spring won't do any good. The spring has an open end and will work it's way out of the zip tie.
You need to close the opening in the spring cup. If your cup don't have slots or holes in them, make some. Then run the zip tie from one hole to the other to close the opening in the cup and you won't lose the cup unless the zip tie breaks.