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Thread: Bikeboy's XR10 build

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Old 01-17-2011, 05:57 PM   #1
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Default Bikeboy's XR10 build



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Ok here it goes, first build for me.

Specs on stuff that i currently have:
Axial XR10 kit
Viper chasis
Futaba 4PKS
Sedona and rover tires
Tekin FXR esc (2)
CC BEC
(2) Tekin 35T combo with fxr esc
vaquish product incision chubs, incision steering knuckles, incision lockout
Batteries: MaxAmps
CO battery mount front and rear
CO Ti steering links - bent version
Wheels: Vanquish ProComp 2 for front and SLW V4 for rear 1.0
giving the rc4wd gearbox - planning to upgrade the gear later - so if it doesn't work out i can switch that out too
axial shock cap upgrade and shock collar change to Big Bore now
Crawler Innovation low front links and high clearance rear link
UGC Viper chasis

Bikeboy

Last edited by bikeboy; 04-05-2011 at 12:13 PM. Reason: add photos
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:40 PM   #2
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id go with the tekin 45t motors. thats what i use in my xr10
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:46 PM   #3
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The normal 10A CC BEC is plenty good enough. Normal FXR's are plenty good, and a bit smaller. I love Br00d motors, period. Wouldn't buy anything else.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:50 PM   #4
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Yes I ended getting the fxr esc and tekin 35t combo but waiting for Holmes Crawler Master to be release - got the ugc viper - guess i need to update my list huh
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:52 PM   #5
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Didn't realize how old this thread was.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:03 PM   #6
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Yeah shopping for all those stuff takes time, lots of stuff sold out and have to wait to order them - ahem vanquish wheels
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:28 PM   #7
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Just got some part build and adding photos - used rc4wd gear box - more photos to come of vp product
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:53 AM   #8
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Just add the viper chasis photos and shocks (stock)
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:00 AM   #9
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looking good..cant wait to see some action shots
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:08 PM   #10
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Finally complete the build. Part one.
Going to run this for awhile while i wait for the vp front and rear link mount and reolace the gear to rc4wd gear
but for now this baby need some run time and mud and rock dust on it









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Old 04-05-2011, 12:16 PM   #11
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You can come get it dirty at the VARCOR comp in Richmond this Saturday.
2011 VARCOR Point Series - Event #5 - April 9 - Richmond VA
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:07 PM   #12
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It looks like you may have the front axle clocked too much.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ittybitty View Post
It looks like you may have the front axle clocked too much.
X2, that servo is going to hang on everything.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROWDY RACING View Post
X2, that servo is going to hang on everything.
What does he need to do....shorten his front links a bit?
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:26 PM   #15
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Shortening the front uppers will drop the motor down and bring your servo back up out of harms way.
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaotic Crawlers View Post
Shortening the front uppers will drop the motor down and bring your servo back up out of harms way.
X2, shorten them or move them back on the chassis.
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:01 PM   #17
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hey guys thanks for the advice
ok i have some close up for you to look at
as for shortening the front upper (Black) (Link B) is this what your talking about? or the red alum. axial upper (link A)














thanks
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Old 04-05-2011, 06:15 PM   #18
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They are saying to move links A in your pic. You might be able to simply move them back a few holes on your chassis and it should be fine. If not, then you will need to shorten them a bit. I had to do the same thing on mine and I was able to just move them back some holes on the chassis. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:08 PM   #19
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x2 You have your chubs clocked back as far as they will go, but you need to shorten the upper links to rotate the entire axle back. What this does as well as helping clear the servo horn is to improve your breakover steering. I know some guys will notch out the slot on the chubs to clock them back even further (which I may find myself doing).

So, first thing would be to see if you can move the upper link mount on the chassis further back. Start there. If not, then you need to shorten the rod ends or the links altogether. If that doesn't work, depending on your WB, you could lengthen the lowers too. Same effect, just depends on where your WB is sitting.

Last edited by zjguy721; 04-05-2011 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:12 PM   #20
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Nice lookin rig but those spray painted tranny covers are too glamerous for me
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