my yeti xl

[djjiz]

Don't reverse wires on a sensored motor.

[jvh22a]

Wow. My venom 25c 50th cost about $46ish. I guess I need to learn how to shop better.
I'll have to take it all apart tonight to get to the esc wire.

Also the front body post screws worked it's way out and can't be found. So now back to the hardware store to get new screws.

Thanks for all your help guys.

Side note; the XL was doing cartwheels backwards but going forward was embarrassing. I'll report back once I chage the esc setting. It was set to "ccw".

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by jvh22a

Wow. My venom 25c 50th cost about $46ish. I guess I need to learn how to shop better.
I'll have to take it all apart tonight to get to the esc wire.

Also the front body post screws worked it's way out and can't be found. So now back to the hardware store to get new screws.

Thanks for all your help guys.

Side note; the XL was doing cartwheels backwards but going forward was embarrassing. I'll report back once I chage the esc setting. It was set to "ccw".

You don't have to take it apart. No need to touch the Sensor wire. Just change your in the Motor Rotation in Programmable Items #11. Once done redo your radio calibration.

[jvh22a]

AWESOME update!!!!!

well i got into the hobbywing program and switched the motor rotation to "CW" and then recalibrated the remote settings(not sure what you guys call it). i figured i should just switch the pinion back to 15t just in case the motor rotation fixes the slow forward issue.

well stripped the pinion screws and took about an hour to find a new screw. once installed took the XL up the street. first pull of the trigger the XL does a 360 flip and then proceeds to flip about 3 times!!! then going down hill i turned the steering to hard. it does 5-6 flips banging on the side of the wheels. at that point i thought i broke a few parts, cause it was really loud as it was banging on the street.

did this a few times and amazingly nothing broke. i never understood how you guys could bang up an RC that cost about 1K!!! but man that was fun!!

thanks for all your help!! the XL was no fun the first few times i played with it but now that it is working normal i love it.

on the suspension i had switched to
Front: 1.4 4 hole 30 wt
rear: 1.4 4 hole 10 wt.

with this setup the front just dives when coming to a stop. i have 5% drag brake set, so once i let off the throttle the front dives and you see sparks for a few feet.



so im going to order the springs and the bladder thing and up the oil to front 40wt and rear 20wt.

then i got a used castle bec and link coming in a few days.

cant believe i thought about not buying more parts for the XL cause it was so slow and not fun. now im also looking into getting the complete steering rack thing from ebay.

[cmbscx10]

Glad you got it all sorted out. Welcome aboard to the fun train. Not to rain on your parade but wheels will be your next thing to upgrade. Order those when you order the DHawk or ?? steering upgrade.

[jvh22a]

i noticed that once you hit the throttle hard the right side(i think the right side) goes up like it is running on 3 wheels.
does a front swaybar fix this?

i think im going to sort out the suspension first then wait till the original steering thing breaks to replace it.

ill also need a new steering servo horn. i used the one that came with the servo kit but it doesnt line up straight.

does the 89351 bladder replace the upper clear o-ring. or do i use both?

[cmbscx10]

Originally Posted by jvh22a

i noticed that once you hit the throttle hard the right side(i think the right side) goes up like it is running on 3 wheels.
does a front swaybar fix this?

i think im going to sort out the suspension first then wait till the original steering thing breaks to replace it.

ill also need a new steering servo horn. i used the one that came with the servo kit but it doesnt line up straight.

does the 89351 bladder replace the upper clear o-ring. or do i use both?

That's normal. Way worse in a RTR. A front sway bar would help but there are no good choices that i would spend $$ IMO.

Id tune your suspension to your liking 1st.

The plastic servo arms suck. They are not designed for such a vehicle. Get a clamping metal one and be done.

I would get the 89352 because it has the bladder and the correct O ring.

[jvh22a]

Just ordered the 89352 kit, yellow spring kit , and axial metal servo horn thing.

Will thinking about getting the steering rake, I was looking at my wheels and how the right wheel has more play (toe in and out) compared to the left side. Then saw that the 4 screws that go from the bottom up did not go into plastic post from the top piece. The entire front end was held on by the 3 screws on the metal triangle plate. Amazing it didn't break, considering how I drove it.





So I got every thing bolted back and no more play on the right side steering post (part with the long screw goes through). But the right wheel can still move (toe in/out) about double of the left side.

[BobTeagle]

Originally Posted by djjiz

Don't reverse wires on a sensored motor.

Oops, I didn't realize that was a sensored motor😬
Sorry, I should have looked closer, was referring to a non sensored application.

Glad you got it worked out! I would recommend disabling the drag brake, it puts unessesary strain on the drivetrain.

[mond]

Originally Posted by jvh22a

Then saw that the 4 screws that go from the bottom up did not go into plastic post from the top piece. The entire front end was held on by the 3 screws on the metal triangle plate. Amazing it didn't break, considering how I drove it.

I think that's a common problem. I saw a few posts here about it and when I built mine I added the GPM aluminium version right out of the box.

[jvh22a]

some parts came in a few days ago;
castle bec and link
Hpi springs
shock bladder things
bell crank from ebay
still waiting for a few more things. i wasnt going to install them casue im selling the XL. but sitting in the garage and staring at the parts i couldnt help myself. installed and will try them out tomorrow.
i put the long hpi(yellow; i think is soft) in front and moved both upper and lower front springs to the back.
im using 1.4 ; 4 hole for both shocks. front is 30wt and rear is 10wt

rear preload is at 14mm; and the front i moved the preload all the way up almost touching the shock cap.

when i put the bladder things on top of the shock, i left the original o-ring in, hope that was right...


the original bell crank; my right front wheel had a lot of place compared to the left. the metal bell crank lowered the free play a bit and made both sides equal.

[jvh22a]

i took it out for a few minutes and now when i turn the wheel and go forward/reverse it makes a clicking sound. just like the sound of a bad cv joint on a fwd car.

looked around and nothing is out of place and doesnt make the noise if im holding it off the ground.

i checked the motor to see if it has moved but it has not and the mesh still the same.

anyone had this problem?

[djjiz]

Diffs are fawking up. If I'm not lunching pinions it's spider gears. Hoping aluminum diff cups will help them last a little longer.

[cmbscx10]

Did you check your front diff after your crash from Post #24? Without hearing it sounds like you have blown the front diff.

I think you should sell it. Some are just after they get a scratch on it. Man why does Axial make such crappy plastic. I mean really can;t they make plastic that doesn't scratch. That was some sarcasm there.

[jvh22a]

took the front end apart this morning. found so many metal shavings and dirt. the smaller gear looks to be fine. but got to get all the grease off to be sure.







i got my hobby king order an installed this remote switch thing for some lights, but its to dim. so might have to hook it straight to the battery.

[jvh22a]

ive listed it for sale on craigslist. but if anyone here is interested ill let it got for $625 picked up. in glendale,ca

has
xl kit
turnigy remote on/off switch (no yet installed)
hobbywing xerun 2200kv / 150a esc
2 venom 5000mah hardcase batteries
flysky gt2b
hitec hs-7954sh servo high torque
aluminum servo horn
hpi spring set
shock rebuild set with the bladder
aluminum full bell crank kit


will come with all parts that came with the kit and left over stickers.


trade for go kart stuff or ammo; 5.56/223 brass case only

[rcaholic13]

Hey bro was looking at some parts you put in the sale section trying to send you a pm but you box is full

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