Spider gears notchey/hard to turn

[jump_it]

Next time you have your diff apart take the diff cup and put it on a glass table to check that the face is level and not warped, this reads like it might warped may have had over tightened screws or the sealing face of the cup is not level, I have had a few vehicles in the past that were real sensitive to over tightening the ring or spur gear to the diff cup, best suggestion for anyone assembling diffs is to dry fit first.

I know some guys will lay a piece of sandpaper on a glass table and give the sealing face of the cup a light sanding to make sure it is flat specially with plastic and all its imperfections, but in this case maybe removing material might not be the best idea.

Also under neath the two spider gears top bottom check and make sure that their is not two AX31233 washers stuck together, that has happened to me before and it makes a difference, sometimes the two can get stuck together when shipped and they just magically stay stuck together.

Also when filling diffs the general rule is to fill just over the cross pins leaving enuff room for the top spider gear, their is no need to fill it up level with the top of the diff, unless you like wasting oil :/

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by tonyfalkon

The 4 planetary gears come with shims on the back removing them will give you extra 0.3 mm, 40 mm OAL length between the 2 outer bearing and put a new gasket or add another to the old they are 0.5 mm unused once you tighten them, gaskets won't return to their original width LOL.

Thanks, I will look into this and report back if it helps.

Originally Posted by Deckard

Why is the diff cup plastic? I'm not a mechanical engineer, but when I looked at the diff cup for the first time I thought "where's the 1/8th version?"

When I see the amount of force that is applied to the diffs when just testing.... I feel kind of sorry for that little plastic toy cup. I'm going to give the GPM diff cup a shot.

Also, hard breaking is a diff killer for sure. I'll hit a someone before I'll break hard with my YXL.

I've been thinking about getting the HR diff cup but was hesitate because I didn't want to have the same notchey with aluminum version but then again it might solve my issues since it won't compress like plastic will.

Originally Posted by jump_it

Next time you have your diff apart take the diff cup and put it on a glass table to check that the face is level and not warped, this reads like it might warped may have had over tightened screws or the sealing face of the cup is not level, I have had a few vehicles in the past that were real sensitive to over tightening the ring or spur gear to the diff cup, best suggestion for anyone assembling diffs is to dry fit first.

I know some guys will lay a piece of sandpaper on a glass table and give the sealing face of the cup a light sanding to make sure it is flat specially with plastic and all its imperfections, but in this case maybe removing material might not be the best idea.

Also under neath the two spider gears top bottom check and make sure that their is not two AX31233 washers stuck together, that has happened to me before and it makes a difference, sometimes the two can get stuck together when shipped and they just magically stay stuck together.

Also when filling diffs the general rule is to fill just over the cross pins leaving enuff room for the top spider gear, their is no need to fill it up level with the top of the diff, unless you like wasting oil :/

My rear only had 1 shim at all 4 spots. I also dry tested it a ton to try and figure out the problem. Like I said before, as soon as the screw head barely starts to touch the ring gear, it gets notchey instantly, which shouldn't happen. I have my front end apart right now so I'll see if it's the same and what I can find to fix this problem.

[tonyfalkon]

Originally Posted by BarHarborBasher

Completely prepared my self for a answer like that...please post a video of you mod so we can learn as a community

Try a set of HD gears with some shimming so you can be on the same page ...

I must say you must be a shim master to handle the 3 minutes of total run time with the MT XL with straight cut gears

Now your just steering up turd first you responded by saying I should try my method first before suggesting. Now your bringing up my short comings from another rig, and accusing me of being a master shimmer ??? REALLY ???? do you even read posts your responding to and your responses before you even submit a reply.

First off my YXL RTR weighs 15 lbs with electronics and 2 x 2s batteries, same as the 4 wheels and tires of the YXL MT project lemme repeat that YXL MT build 15 lbs just the wheels and tires, and since I'm using the same parts your assuming I'm applying the same methods to both .... REALLY???? .

Right now I'm trying to decide if your trying to be funny or you just can't grasp what I posted and as I said it worked for my RTR I never made any guarantees it would work on their or that it would work on anything else. And besides I thought this is a forum of exchanging ideas to see what might work or won't work for you not the shoot down any idea that doesn't work for you because if it doesn't work for you it won't work for anyone else.

My apologies to the OP and the rest of you reading this rant, ironic ??? because I hate drama, also to the moderators and if the mods feel this going to far please feel free to delete this post.

[jump_it]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Thanks, I will look into this and report back if it helps.



I've been thinking about getting the HR diff cup but was hesitate because I didn't want to have the same notchey with aluminum version but then again it might solve my issues since it won't compress like plastic will.



My rear only had 1 shim at all 4 spots. I also dry tested it a ton to try and figure out the problem.

Like I said before, as soon as the screw head barely starts to touch the ring gear, it gets notchey instantly, which shouldn't happen. I have my front end apart right now so I'll see if it's the same and what I can find to fix this problem.

As for the shims I was speaking of the shims that sit under the cross pins which go thru the shaft of the diff out drive cup.

on my stock cup from bottom to top, height wise I have 25.15 mm give or take.

[47yok]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Why this ^^.

I've been waiting over 2 months for my parts.
That I was promised they would send.
Still haven't showed up.

Axial = POS LIARS !!!

SO --- -- F-- - -U.

[84yoda]

Quick update, ordered HR diff cup, new o-rings, and new washers. Already have HD gears, dhawk aluminum front bulkhead and fast eddy ceramics bearings. Hopefully I can get the notchey feeling figured out and have a solid front end. We'll see. Lol.

[Dionisi]

Originally Posted by 84yoda

Quick update, ordered HR diff cup, new o-rings, and new washers. Already have HD gears, dhawk aluminum front bulkhead and fast eddy ceramics bearings. Hopefully I can get the notchey feeling figured out and have a solid front end. We'll see. Lol.

The notchy diff should go away once you install the aluminum cup. I was having the same exact problem and was driving me crazy. The diff being notchy when taking apart a few times I can only think it's from some kind of warping. When i installed the aluminum diff cups the screws had a nice positive stop and no notchiness.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by Dionisi

The notchy diff should go away once you install the aluminum cup. I was having the same exact problem and was driving me crazy. The diff being notchy when taking apart a few times I can only think it's from some kind of warping. When i installed the aluminum diff cups the screws had a nice positive stop and no notchiness.

THANK GOD! Glad I'm not the only one.

[BarHarborBasher]

Looks like im not done spending yet lol

[Deckard]

Dionisi, are you using the HR cup?

I can probably swing by a LHS here in town and get the HR cup today. I would rather have the GPM diff cup, but that'll take at least a week to get here. I guess I could use one in the front and one in the trunk

[Dionisi]

Originally Posted by Deckard

Dionisi, are you using the HR cup?

I can probably swing by a LHS here in town and get the HR cup today. I would rather have the GPM diff cup, but that'll take at least a week to get here. I guess I could use one in the front and one in the trunk

Yes I am using the hr cups, it's what was available at my shop(impulse buyer). Yea with hr I have really mixed feelings about them. Some machining I've gotten has been not the greatest in some of their products for example their piggybacks on the inside of the cap I noticed some flashing as if the milling was rushed or something.But some of the stuff they make is good not only in design but as in they are the only ones who pump out so many things.Also their 17mm hub conversion has been real good and I think they also widen the width a bit.

[SeanKewley]

Did the double gasket not work?

[Deckard]

Originally Posted by Dionisi

Yes I am using the hr cups, it's what was available at my shop(impulse buyer). Yea with hr I have really mixed feelings about them. Some machining I've gotten has been not the greatest in some of their products for example their piggybacks on the inside of the cap I noticed some flashing as if the milling was rushed or something.But some of the stuff they make is good not only in design but as in they are the only ones who pump out so many things.Also their 17mm hub conversion has been real good and I think they also widen the width a bit.

That's the exact reason I haven't used the HR diff cup. I'm one of the few that likes their front sway bar. I also like their motor mount for the YXL (impulse buy). I bought shock caps and rigs for the Bomber and they look like HR had the new intern machine them. A very bitter intern that has anger issues.

Do you have the 17mm hub conversion? I was thinking about picking it up to widen the stance, but since I need new tires and rims anyway I'm going to copy Pro Mod Steve. The Desperado wheels have a decent offset and don't seem to be made from licorice.

[Dionisi]

Originally Posted by Deckard

That's the exact reason I haven't used the HR diff cup. I'm one of the few that likes their front sway bar. I also like their motor mount for the YXL (impulse buy). I bought shock caps and rigs for the Bomber and they look like HR had the new intern machine them. A very bitter intern that has anger issues.

Do you have the 17mm hub conversion? I was thinking about picking it up to widen the stance, but since I need new tires and rims anyway I'm going to copy Pro Mod Steve. The Desperado wheels have a decent offset and don't seem to be made from licorice.

Lol yea or someone's not happy with their pay. Yes I do and I've been really happy with it. I thought i would have to replace it with the axial hubs but so far been solid on 6s,I did shear a few hub pins but I have a whole bag so no biggie.I even like the rings they use on the wheel helps keep the wheel from stripping. Still on original wheels.Also have the hr motor mount and plate and swear the temps went down as I check temps religiously the whole piece absorbs a lot of heat. We just have to keep reporting on what's good and what isn't and just keep testing, will help others at least make a better decision on what to get.

[84yoda]

Originally Posted by SeanKewley

Did the double gasket not work?

Haven't tried it, just said eff it and going with aluminum diff cup instead.

Originally Posted by Dionisi

Lol yea or someone's not happy with their pay. Yes I do and I've been really happy with it. I thought i would have to replace it with the axial hubs but so far been solid on 6s,I did shear a few hub pins but I have a whole bag so no biggie.I even like the rings they use on the wheel helps keep the wheel from stripping. Still on original wheels.Also have the hr motor mount and plate and swear the temps went down as I check temps religiously the whole piece absorbs a lot of heat. We just have to keep reporting on what's good and what isn't and just keep testing, will help others at least make a better decision on what to get.

HR has definitely stepped up there game within last year or two. I haven't had any issues from HR and wouldn't hesitate to run them over any other cheaper company. I run there motor plate/mount, front batwing, front body post mount, 140mm limit straps, steel spur gear (running robinson slipper now) and soon to be aluminum diff cup as well.

[84yoda]

HR aluminum diff cup totally cured the notchey spider gears. Definitely worth it if your having the same issue.

[BarHarborBasher]

Is there any way you could compare/measure the depth to the stock one ?