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05-21-2015, 02:46 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Cape Girardeau
Posts: 24
| Front and rear diff question
I'm assembling my kit and the front and rear diffs aren't spinning very freely. I can feel each tooth as I spin them. I've retraced my steps and can't find where the issue is coming from. Any suggestions? |
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05-21-2015, 03:19 AM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Finland
Posts: 4
| Re: Front and rear diff question
I had the same issue with front diff. Ordered a new diff cover which solved the problem. Original one pushed gears too tight.
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05-21-2015, 03:54 AM | #3 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Cape Girardeau
Posts: 24
| Re: Front and rear diff question |
05-21-2015, 08:10 AM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Western Wa. Mose Capital of the World
Posts: 275
| Re: Front and rear diff question
Just like in a real diff. You need to add or remove the shim's to get the proper tooth engagement PN# AX1162
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05-21-2015, 08:32 AM | #5 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,685
| Re: Front and rear diff question
If you can't move the pinion gear back, you need to move the ring gear away from the pinion gear. In this case, you can not move the pinion back because there are no shims to remove. There are no shims in the 380 yeti. If you have too tight when you assemble, you should verify the paper gasket is installed between the ring gear and diff gear case. If I recall, I installed 2 gaskets to get a nice mesh. If I didn't have a spare on hand for the rear, I would have been really upset. |
05-21-2015, 08:48 AM | #6 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: New Brunswick,Canada
Posts: 1,425
| Re: Front and rear diff question
Is it the RTR or kit version.I bought the kit version with no shims and both move freely... |
05-21-2015, 10:19 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Florida
Posts: 346
| Re: Front and rear diff question
My RTR had a shim on the front ring gear and nothing on the rear.
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05-21-2015, 07:11 PM | #8 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Canada
Posts: 86
| Re: Front and rear diff question
rear has locker and no fluid so gasket would not be needed/used
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05-21-2015, 07:56 PM | #9 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,685
| Re: Front and rear diff question
Actually, if you have the stock plastic locker housing and a ring gear (you do unless you changed something) you still need the gasket for spacing. If you have not installed the gasket between the housing and the ring gear, you're going to have a really tight mesh on the gears and wear them out VERY FAST!
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05-21-2015, 09:47 PM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Mt. Juliet, TN
Posts: 1,031
| Re: Front and rear diff question
I can't speak for the rear but when you assemble the front don't over tighten the case screws. I did this and had the same issue, I backed the screws off a touch and it spun smooth as silk.
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05-21-2015, 10:08 PM | #11 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,685
| Re: Front and rear diff question
That's an indication it needs shimmer somehow. When you power in with the loose screws, the ring gear is going to shift and make it easier to strip. Keep an eye on the gears
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05-21-2015, 11:30 PM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Mt. Juliet, TN
Posts: 1,031
| Re: Front and rear diff question
No, it's called over tightening shit.
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05-22-2015, 02:15 AM | #13 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Cape Girardeau
Posts: 24
| Re: Front and rear diff question I had the issue just holding the cover on with my fingers. I took the dremel to it and removed some of the surface area inside. Problem solved.
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