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08-21-2016, 08:43 AM | #1 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13
| Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
Hello My friend bought the Score truck as his first rig/build. The issue we are having is that unless we run 15ish degrees of camber with a little toe out the universals simply do not appear long enough. We have had the entire front end apart 3-4 times and double checked that things were where the manual said they had to be. If we set the turnbuckles to what the manual says its is more like 20-25 degrees camber with a lot of toe out. I have looked all over the web and have not seen anything about this kind of problem. Anyone have any ideas on something stupid that I might have missed or is it possible that he got a some badly formed parts? We ordered 94mm universals but I am not sure they will fix the problem and I do not think it should of been necessary. Thanks in advance |
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08-21-2016, 12:01 PM | #2 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Bacchus Marsh, Australia
Posts: 48
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
You could try a short piece of fuel tube in the diff cups to stop the shaft moving in and out so much. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk |
08-21-2016, 03:23 PM | #3 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Germany
Posts: 1,364
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
Did you Check the gap between the Two rod ends, steering 60mm turnbuckle should be 38mm and chamber 55mm 38.5mm. 25° chamber sounds way to muuch for me. sent by magic_yeti |
08-21-2016, 03:53 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: The Angels
Posts: 433
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
Do you have the inner bearings in the knuckles? Stupid question but Ive seen it before...
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08-21-2016, 08:15 PM | #5 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
When the steering and camber links are set to what the manual calls for the truck has a lot of toe out and the camber is in that 25ish range. By adjusting everything out to where the cvd's are just long enough to make a decent couple I can just about get rid of the toe out and the camber drops down to 15 or so. Inner bearing are in and I have had it apart at least 3 times to check that the diff was built properly all the pins and clamps seemed to be where they were supposed to be and the mesh felt right. The pin's and hexes on the CVD's are just on the outside of the hub and seem to form a good fit. Maybe Axial had a bad run of parts or something I am at a loss, will try the 94mm CVD's if that doesnt cure it, back to Axial it goes.
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08-21-2016, 08:21 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: The Angels
Posts: 433
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
Have you double checked the knuckles and carriers are on their respective sides?
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08-21-2016, 09:28 PM | #7 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Billings
Posts: 50
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling
Sounds like the same problem I had after installing the Axial front locker. I didn't realized that these rubber bumpstops were in the original dog bone cups... Axial Racing - Axial Racing the axle would slip about 1/4" without them and make it mostly undrivable. Well, I tried to drive it. It didn't last long, dog bones popped out and destroyed the plastic parts. You might make sure they are in both cups by the differential. Page 19 of the instructions shows them. Last edited by Mtnkid; 08-21-2016 at 09:32 PM. |
08-22-2016, 08:56 AM | #8 |
Newbie Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 13
| Re: Yeti build and issues with front universals/diff coupling |
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