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Old 08-12-2010, 05:01 PM   #1
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Default In phase or out of phase?

On the left is the middle U-joint, then the carrier bearing, then the output from the transfer case.



Local shop that installed the new carrier and U-joints said that this is in phase.

I see the yokes on the front section of shaft 90 degrees out of phase at the slip yoke.
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:12 PM   #2
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Out of phase Jason....
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:16 PM   #3
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Exactly what I told them.

I get to rip it apart and hope I get it right as far as being in balance the first time.

If not I get to rip it apart a second time and flip it 180 degrees.
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:18 PM   #4
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never knew there was a such a thing. whats the intension of phasing?
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:21 PM   #5
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never knew there was a such a thing. whats the intension of phasing?
Has to do with how the u-joints work in conjuction of each other.

On a single shaft (no center support) you end up with a funny clatter type noise because the jounts are basicly working against each other so to speak.
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:26 PM   #6
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this is kinda making me nervous...i've kinda just installed the u joints in so you could lube em. i've got 6 u joints. d vorced 205 im gonna have look at stuff now...

...well the short shaft out the trans to tc is in phase-tabs fer u joints line up

the rear is a tooth or two out of alignment. never felt or heard slop

Last edited by 73fordhighboy; 08-12-2010 at 05:39 PM. Reason: after eyeballin my rig...
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:41 PM   #7
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this is kinda making me nervous...i've kinda just installed the u joints in so you could lube em. i've got 6 u joints. d vorced 205 im gonna have look at stuff now...

...well the short shaft out the trans to tc is in phase-tabs fer u joints line up

the rear is a tooth or two out of alignment. never felt or heard slop

It's easy - just make sure the yokes for each shaft line up.

Here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html

I knew the shit I was looking at was wrong but the shop didn't want to fix it. Owner said he had to leave to catch a flight to Florida and told me to bring it back Monday.



I pulled the center apart, get to head to town and buy a 1 5/16" socket.

I figure I'll have my expenses and time spent un-fawking his work reimbursed or get his ass black-listed at Ft. Campbell.
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:55 PM   #8
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did i just hear that right. you brought it to a shop and they didnt do it correctly...and they shipped you vehicle? thats almost classic.

good to hear you sorted it out.
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Old 08-12-2010, 08:55 PM   #9
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did i just hear that right. you brought it to a shop and they didnt do it correctly...and they shipped you vehicle? thats almost classic.

good to hear you sorted it out.
Yeah, dude's mechanics finished at 3:30 I drove just far enough to get to 45MPH and feel it shake worse than it did with the old, worn carrier bearing in it, turned around, went back, and told them that the shafts were out of phase.

They said they marked everything and it was right.

I crawled under and showed them the slip yoke was about 120 degrees off.

They "fixed" it - at 90 degrees. I told them it wasn't right and the owner said he was supposed to catch a flight to Florida and that I'd have to bring it back Monday.

When he sees me Monday I'll be asking for a refund.

If he doesn't give at least a partial refund (he DID properly install the carrier bearing and U-joints - just fawked up getting them in phase even after I pointed it out on the front driveshaft and the latter half of the rear driveshaft that they didn't have to disassemble) I'll let him know I'll be notifying Ft. Campbell as soon as I leave his shop.

Would have taken 10-15 minutes and he didn't want to do it or listen.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #10
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epic drive shaft fail...
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:05 PM   #11
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http://jniolon.clubfte.com/driveline...nephasing.html

Basically, the rotation of a U-joint is angular, and the opposite end should have the same angle and phase to cancel out the vibration.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:06 PM   #12
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epic driveline shop failure...
I cannot believe that a shop would let this slide. Incredible.

Casey
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JasonInAugusta View Post
It's easy - just make sure the yokes for each shaft line up.

Here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index2.html

.
Thanks for the link, awsome stuff
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:55 PM   #14
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So Friday night I bought the 1 5/16" socket to remove the slip yoke, put the yoke in phase, and torqued it all back together.

Visited him today and told him I'd like a partial refund because when I left there the work had still not been done properly and instead of fixing it he was anxious to leave so he could go vacation in Florida for the weekend. Since I was supposed to be in Alabama for a MS fundraiser I had to put things back in phase in hopes of being able to go. After properly phasing the yoke the shaft was still out of balance and horrible.

He's adamant that he's not giving me a refund because his guys marked the driveshaft.

So I asked him, in front of the other five customers that gathered, "If your guys marked the shaft so it could be assembled properly why is it, that after two attempts to put it back together they way they had marked it, it STILL wasn't right?"

Told him I wanted half of the amount I paid for labor refunded because half-ass labor doesn't deserve full payment.

It kept on for a while and he finally got pissed and threw down $80 then said "You know what, here's $100. You happy?"

Told him I'd have been happy if he hadn't tried to bullshit me on Friday.

Other things I saw while I was there...

Friday: Girl comes in needing an alternator replaced. I walked past the open bays on the way to grab lunch. Shop monkeys had the alternator in a vise hammering on it. I came back from lunch to see one of them walk in with the pulley in his hand and part of the alternator shaft broken off inside the pulley.

So I asked, "Wow, the shaft break off inside the pulley?"

"No, that's the clutch stuck in the pulley."

WTF kind of alernator has a clutch?


Today: Guy comes in for a brake problem on the rear of his car. Shop monkeys come in and say that one rotor is thrashed and needs to be replaced. The other rotor is "good, we can just machine it".

WTF kind of shop replaces both sets of pads and one rotor?

At least I got a partial refund like I wanted, but I was still pissed when I left the place.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:02 PM   #15
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Wow, what a bunch of idiots, I guess you don't even need to be ASE Certified to work there either. I think it's pretty damn safe to say that'll be your last trip there? lol
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:34 PM   #16
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WTF kind of shop replaces both sets of pads and one rotor?

At least I got a partial refund like I wanted, but I was still pissed when I left the place.
Thats a judgement call really. I prefer to replace both rotors rathen than one so they are the same thickness but you have to be conscience of a customer and try to give them a good deal and back on the road(at least thats my way of thinking after 20 years of a chev tech). There is no safety issues with just replacing one rotor since we are talking in thousanths of an inch typicly.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:36 PM   #17
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Wow, what a bunch of idiots, I guess you don't even need to be ASE Certified to work there either. I think it's pretty damn safe to say that'll be your last trip there? lol
ASE is a joke. All you have to be able to do is read a study guide and pass a test.

Thats one thing I do like about factory standards (at least with GM) is you must be trained for whatever area you work in and soon if you are not you won't be getting paid any warrantee for the work you complete.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:37 PM   #18
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Thats a judgement call really. I prefer to replace both rotors rathen than one so they are the same thickness but you have to be conscience of a customer and try to give them a good deal and back on the road(at least thats my way of thinking after 20 years of a chev tech). There is no safety issues with just replacing one rotor since we are talking in thousanths of an inch typicly.
Personally I replace both. If I need a new front or rear caliper or rotor, I replace both.

Same with headlamps.

Otherwise you end up in a cycle where you're replacing one and having service done twice as often - if you take it to a shop.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:41 PM   #19
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Personally I replace both. If I need a new front or rear caliper or rotor, I replace both.

Same with headlamps.

Otherwise you end up in a cycle where you're replacing one and having service done twice as often - if you take it to a shop.
Why would you have to have service done twice?

I agree I like to keep things in pairs but its not always possable.
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Old 08-16-2010, 02:45 PM   #20
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ASE is a joke. All you have to be able to do is read a study guide and pass a test.

Its nearly the same in the rv industry. Study a big ass book, take a test, and you're certified. They used to have a hands on portion of the test, but did away with it because of costs. Wouldn't you know it, ever since it went to a strictly written test more techs get certified.
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