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04-11-2009, 12:40 AM | #41 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
| Mine weigh right at 1lb each. I assume yours are less. I'm also just using 1100mah battery packs.
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04-15-2009, 08:27 PM | #42 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
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Got the motors http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS390-12 spartacus recommended installed today and what a huge difference. They bolted right up with just moving the links to the outside. Power is endless on 14.4v, and I like it. Never could get either axle to stall. It only lasted about 10 minutes before eating the stock gears in the rear. Time to install the metal upgrades I guess. big thanks to spartacus_nuc for figuring out a good motor option |
04-15-2009, 11:05 PM | #43 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Titusville
Posts: 83
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I'm gonna experiment with slightly fewer cells this weekend to try and reduce the gear eating tendencies of these motors, and hopefully, they will provide good performance at a low enough voltage the we can start using a good ESC with a drag brake. I doubt the rooster will work, but the Tekin FXR and Castle Mamba Max can handle at least 3S lipo/9 cell NiMH AND have drag brakes.
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04-17-2009, 10:40 PM | #44 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
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Spent most of the day finding rocks, taking them to my friends back yard and making a little rock garden. Its complete with a waterfall and pond and was a blast to run on. The duratrax did great on it's first true beating outside. Only problem I've got is low run time with the junk 1100mah batteries I'm using and these powerful motors. I might have gotten a good strong 15min, then i could see a loss of power. I may be going back to the sub c cells but only run 10 to slow these down a bit. I'd like to find a 9 or 10 tooth pinion to try so I don't lose much torque. Pics from today... the pond is about 10in deep, I lost the rear axle in it today and we also completely lost an mrc for a couple seconds We will add rocks to the bottom so it's not so deep, and more rocks in general. |
04-17-2009, 11:36 PM | #45 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: In a very dark cave can't you tell...
Posts: 1,708
| Nice
I'm a ax10 guy, but I do respect what you have done with that rig. |
04-18-2009, 01:15 AM | #46 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
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Thanks, I feel I've almost got my moneys worth already artr cc- $60 used novak evx esc- $30 390 motors- $10 Batteries- free used cc bec- $15 used 2.2 wheels and tires- $15 metal gear upgrades/cvds/springs- $96 tower pro servo- $11 hardware, brakeline, link ends, paint, misc.- $20 used Tq3 radio- $20 Total for everything to make a fun rtr crawler basher that will suprise alot of people- $277 All of these prices were shipped to me so it is an actual total. Last edited by brokenb4; 04-18-2009 at 01:25 AM. | |
04-18-2009, 08:31 AM | #47 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Great shots, great rock garden, great CC! You did very well on keeping the cost down also; it's nice to see what can be done on the cheap since I'm having to build 2 of them at once! It's especially refreshing to hear someone say they are actually enjoying bashing their CC instead of just bellyaching about how it can't be a world championship contender. Keep up the good work!
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04-20-2009, 04:14 PM | #48 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Rodeo
Posts: 45
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Nice one! youre one of those people I followed here on this forum, I really like how your rig turned out. low CG, most cc they are all have high ground clearance, yours is not. I also bought the same motors you have! how was it? Im afraid to put it with all my plastic gears. I know you said it will eat it up. The only thing is I can't find a METAL MAIN GEAR? everytime I look for one its made of plastic! Is there such thing? or thats the only thing they didn't make a metal gear? One more thing how did you mount your rear shocks to the links?
Last edited by TheCrow; 04-20-2009 at 04:20 PM. |
04-20-2009, 06:12 PM | #49 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
| Quote:
You may need to upgrade the idler gear to metal as that seems to be the first weak link I've found with a stock axle. The rear shocks are mounted with small clamps used to mount fuel line or brake line on cars. I think I may have got them at harbor freight. It came with the rubber insert, I used a drop of super glue inside during installation to keep them from sliding on the links. Experiment with the angle and what you like, it took me quite a bit to get them just right. Too far to the rear and the truck will fold in on itself This is the gear you can't find? main gear Funny thing you mentioned the ground clearance, one of the next steps will be to get this thing even a little lower and a serious stock chassis overhaul for free with some derlin scraps. Stay tuned.... this could get interesting. | |
04-22-2009, 09:15 AM | #50 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Rodeo
Posts: 45
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thanks! I will put the motors in and see what will happen. Im having hard time looking for those clamps that you used. Do you know any website that carries them? or maybe you have a some extras laying around there that I can have? Just kidding! anyways my stuff will come in hopefully today or tom. Mamba Max esc.. etc... my problem is I dont know how to wire my motors and my batteries? need help on that!
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04-22-2009, 09:25 AM | #51 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
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I picked up a couple different types of clamps when I was looking(metal and plastic). They also make them in plastic, I had seen others use them and that's where I got the idea. If you have any decent hardware stores around they should have some variation of the clamp. I would also recommend bringing a scrap of brakeline to get the right size you need. The other pack of clamps I got can be found on Harbor Freights website, search part # 66009. They would work with a little peice of double sided tape under them to keep from sliding around. As far as wiring I have yet to use a mamba max so I can't be much help there. Last edited by brokenb4; 04-22-2009 at 09:35 AM. Reason: found clamps | |
04-22-2009, 07:20 PM | #52 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Titusville
Posts: 83
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04-23-2009, 08:42 AM | #53 |
Newbie Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Rodeo
Posts: 45
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thanks for the instructions spartacus, My only problem is I never solder before in my life. This is going to be my first time and I will do it on a very expensive ESC.lol!! but I will go a head and try it. Hope it works! what about these https://www.tanicpacks.com/product_i...2a8ba700830188 can I use that type of connection? eliminate some of the soldering. They have parallel and series.
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04-23-2009, 11:11 PM | #54 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: san marcos
Posts: 140
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What kind of run time are you getting with the banebots motors and with what battery? sorry if someone else has asked the same question.
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04-24-2009, 08:02 AM | #55 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
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I am using associated 1100 packs that I took apart. I haven't timed it but I think I get around 20-30 minutes with a little loss of power after 15. Not that big of a deal since the motors get warm like the stock ones and shouldn't be ran until they a smoking hot. | |
04-24-2009, 10:14 AM | #56 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 2,175
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Will the duratrax motor heat sinks fit them?
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04-24-2009, 10:17 AM | #57 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: north central IN
Posts: 264
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They should, they are the same size, just longer than stock.
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