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Thread: Cliff Climber Rock Racer Style with Standard 6-Cell Stick Packs

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Old 06-27-2009, 08:00 PM   #41
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The scout that proline makes would make a good scaler body for the CC, but probably too big for a real crawler without major trimming. I think it's around 11"wheelbase.
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Old 06-27-2009, 08:07 PM   #42
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The scout that proline makes would make a good scaler body for the CC, but probably too big for a real crawler without major trimming. I think it's around 11"wheelbase.
That'd be fine I want it to be scale-ish i'm not that worried about it being perfect. I just want to make it look cool and function well. i saw a frame kit on here a bit ago for the CC that stretched the wheel base like an inch and a half so that would be perfect.

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Old 06-30-2009, 05:41 PM   #43
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hey nascarkieth where did you get that all thread at? I figure lowe's or someplace like that has it but i didn't know if they had it that small there.
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:20 PM   #44
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Lowe's has all thread where the weld steel is. They also have short lengths in the hardware drawers.
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:52 PM   #45
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Lowe's has all thread where the weld steel is. They also have short lengths in the hardware drawers.
Jamus is correct. I have bought it at Lowe's, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware. Hobby Lobby or the LHS has the tubing or an auto parts store will sell you some brake line that can be used for covering the links.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:02 PM   #46
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Some may make fun of me, but here's what i use to cover all thread links. I go to the women's shoe departments and grab those plastic things that keep the shoes in place. I also ask all the women in my life to keep them for me, haha. Not as slick as delrin, but better than aluminum and free.
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:51 PM   #47
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That's pretty smart Jamus.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:55 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamus View Post
Lowe's has all thread where the weld steel is. They also have short lengths in the hardware drawers.
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Originally Posted by nascarkeith View Post
Jamus is correct. I have bought it at Lowe's, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware. Hobby Lobby or the LHS has the tubing or an auto parts store will sell you some brake line that can be used for covering the links.
Thanks guys! I'm paying my Jeep off on the 10th so i think after that i'm gonna go ahead and order steel gears and get some all thread and an extra set of stock links then fireup the dremel!
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Old 07-04-2009, 10:07 PM   #49
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I went to the family cookout at my brother's house and we finally got around to starting our crawler course in his back yard. Here are a few pics of what we got so far.


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Old 07-08-2009, 03:55 PM   #50
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During the crawling we did the 4th of July, my brother was able to make it over a big rock once but couldn't do it again. I tried multiple times and lines and never could get over it so that fueled the fire for more modding.

This is the rock that is responsible for the latest round of mods. I made it down it just fine but couldn't crawl back up it.


I started by taking the tall pick up cab off and going back to a stock CC body to keep everything nice and low. Then, I printed off a 40% off coupon and headed to Hobby Lobby for some tubing to use for stretching the rear links. I had some threaded rod here at the house. They didn't have aluminum so I got brass tubing. With the coupon it was $2.27 after tax. I used the same method to stretch the links that I used when clocking the axles. I cut the stock links in half, inserted the threaded rod, and sleeved them with the tubing. With the links reattached to the axle I checked to see where my shocks needed to mount and fabbed me up a chassis extender/shock mount using some scrap sheet metal.

This is how it sits with the chassis/rear link stretch.


Stance with the batteries added


I think it looks alright. I didn't wanted it to look wildly stretched.


While I was modding I went ahead and cut ever other lug out of the middle of the tires to help with the grip. With that finished it was time to hit the rocks.


The stretch helped with flipping over on inclines and maybe helped a little with the clod stall. The tire cutting seemed to give it just a little more grip. As of right now the stall seems to be the biggest limiting factor so I have ordered a 12 tooth pinion to put in the front since there doesn't seem to be a lower gear for the rear going to be available any time soon. Thanks for Jamus for the link on that.

Here is a little video I shot of the test run after the stretch.


For the money this rig is plenty capable and lots of fun.

Here is my list of mods and project total as it sits in the pictures and video above.

Duratrax Cliff Climber RTR $115 shipped with coupon
Relocated body post to lower body Free
Body post mounted standard batteries Free
Dean's Plugs About $6 or so
Lowered electronics it chassis Free if you got mounting tape
Wheel Weights $8 shipped from ebay
Steering Mods Free using parts I had
Clocked Axles Free using stuff I had
Stretching the wheelbase $2.27 for tubing
Painted Wheels Free

Total cost of rig as it sits in pictues $131.27

For a fun, affordable, capable, hobby grade rock crawler I think that is pretty good compared to the price of the other options. They are pretty capable stock and really capable with a few cheap and simple mods. If you break anything parts are readily available so they are not like a Nylint or other cheaper crawlers. I think for the money invested its a great rig. Another thing I really enjoy about my little CC is that as much as I have been through the forums, I haven't found another one just like it.
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Old 08-01-2009, 08:12 PM   #51
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After reading a couple threads about cutting the stock cc wheels I gave it a try. I cut out every other center lug. It seems to help with traction. Thanks to a little info from Jamus I ordered and installed a 12 tooth pinion up front. The clod stall is better but not completely fixed. I think it was worth it for a $5 mod.
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:38 AM   #52
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The Rig looks quite capable, man, good job! ;) What is the steering mod?
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:26 AM   #53
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The Rig looks quite capable, man, good job! ;) What is the steering mod?
Running a bent steering link in the rear to get rid of the play in the plastic post.
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:40 PM   #54
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hey I have the same idea for batteries as you do, but how do you get the battery to stay in place?

Ive done zip ties but the batts still fall out. How do you keep yours in?
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:19 PM   #55
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hey I have the same idea for batteries as you do, but how do you get the battery to stay in place?

Ive done zip ties but the batts still fall out. How do you keep yours in?
Lots of electrical tape.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:42 PM   #56
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I got a Mapp Gas torch for my birthday so I decided to give brazing a shot. I fabbed up a chassis extender/roll bar for the rear of my CC and added a stinger to the front.





For the stock body to go on the rig I had to cut out the bed area. On the stock body I cut out the tailgate for a truggy look. I left the tailgate on my custom body.



I have had a little issue with turning the front wheels so I removed some of the weight and that helped the turning issue without hurting performance. I have 2 1/4 ounces on each front wheel and 1 1/2 ounces on each rear wheel. The rig is pretty heavy anyway with the standard 6 cell batteries.

After I got finished working on the rig I had heard about a place not far from the house to go crawl so I went to check it out. It was a beautiful area at a creek.







It was nice to get out and do some crawling. For the money invested I am still really happy with my CC. I wouldn't mind adding some grippier tires at some point and I have a clicking in the rear axle that I will have to eventually fix.
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:12 PM   #57
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lookin good buddy
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:46 PM   #58
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Wow! I really like what you have done with the stock body. That caged rear made a huge difference. Wish I could figure out how to braze...I have watched videos, read threads, tried a lot, and still suck! :?
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:38 PM   #59
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Wow! I really like what you have done with the stock body. That caged rear made a huge difference. Wish I could figure out how to braze...I have watched videos, read threads, tried a lot, and still suck! :?

Thanks for the compliments. From what I have read on brazing you have to have the right stuff and good heat. I wasted a lot of brazing rod at first trying to put it on before the metal was hot enough. I used Harris Safety Silv and flux for this. Heated it with a Mapp gas torch until it started to turn orange then applied the brazing rod. Hope you get it figured out. It definetly lets you do a lot of stuff.
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:26 AM   #60
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damn good job on that chassis that thing is trick. does the extended chassis help with the stock tires? also what servo are you using?
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