duratrax cc upgrade parts help

[kurtus]

Hi guys, I know you're probably going to tell me to use the search funtion but I was hoping to have a thread that listed the "must upgrade" parts for the cliff climber as it's hard to sift through all the info on here. I've just ordered one for my daughter so she can have some fun with her dad and I'd hate to see her just get out there and have failure. What are the best inexpensive mods to do for this like bent link arms(how long), metal gears etc. Thanks for all your input here.

[73fordhighboy]

hey kurtus, basically for the links- just take em off, cut them in half- drill out the center, thread them with 4-40 all-thread. for the length, on a stock chassis, i think it was like 1/4 inch difference give or take between upper and lower (i honestly cant remember). the first grinding or crunching sounds you'll hear is most likely going to be the idler gear. it's the one that the pinion meshes with.



kurt

p.s. nice name

[gunch]

yeah, definitely new gears, you'll got through those quick if she goes forward/reverse a lot or back and forth fast. Also some banebots motors are pretty cheap to upgrade the power but you'll need to upgrade the esc too, which can be expensive depending on model. look around for a good used cheap on if possible, then she should be able to have some fun. Also the link. I think it was easier to make my own with brake line and threaded rod than to cut the stock ones, drill, etc. Good luck

[73fordhighboy]

kurtus, i just visited your profile. are you near the san juan islands? my inlaws live in friday harbor! we'll be up there this christmas.

[kurtus]

Thanks man, this is quite helpful. The name is a result of being a BC boy as we all know BC has the best bud!!!!!!! lol, seriously though.

Originally Posted by 73fordhighboy

hey kurtus, basically for the links- just take em off, cut them in half- drill out the center, thread them with 4-40 all-thread. for the length, on a stock chassis, i think it was like 1/4 inch difference give or take between upper and lower (i honestly cant remember). the first grinding or crunching sounds you'll hear is most likely going to be the idler gear. it's the one that the pinion meshes with.



kurt

p.s. nice name

[kurtus]

Well she most def will be putting it forward and reverse very fast so metal gears is a must, for the esc I was just going to experiment with my traxxas xl-5 esc and run both motors on it(hoping it works as people states 2 brushed motors on 1 esc is ok) not sure about the voltage though as the esc can only handle up to 8.4v but I will go 2x 7.4v lipo with higher mah wired parallel. As for the links, I already have some 3mm x 16mm axial threaded rods, will they thread to brake line? Thanks for the help. Kurt.

Originally Posted by gunch

yeah, definitely new gears, you'll got through those quick if she goes forward/reverse a lot or back and forth fast. Also some banebots motors are pretty cheap to upgrade the power but you'll need to upgrade the esc too, which can be expensive depending on model. look around for a good used cheap on if possible, then she should be able to have some fun. Also the link. I think it was easier to make my own with brake line and threaded rod than to cut the stock ones, drill, etc. Good luck

[gunch]

^don't think the axial threaded rod will thread into the brake line. When making links with threaded rod and brake line, the threaded rod runs the entire length of the brake line plus some. Then you use ball end that screw onto the threaded rod. You could probably use the stock ball ends with 4-40 I think. There are probably a ton of right up on this. I'll look quick and see if I can't link you to something.

[gunch]

heres a link I found with a quick search. Keep in mind you can use different size rod and tube, basically whatever works for you.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129755

[kurtus]

Actually it's quite close to me however I have never been there before, Hope you have some decent weather while your there!!

Originally Posted by 73fordhighboy

kurtus, i just visited your profile. are you near the san juan islands? my inlaws live in friday harbor! we'll be up there this christmas.

[kurtus]

Thanks for the link gunch, any thoughs as to who would supply threaded rod?

Originally Posted by gunch

heres a link I found with a quick search. Keep in mind you can use different size rod and tube, basically whatever works for you.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129755

[PoorBoyCrawler]

Any hardware store should have the threaded rod. It normally is with the raw sheets of metal, diamond plate, etc. Just ask somebody when you get there where they keep it. Your local hobby store might carry it as well.

And as 73fordhighboy said, if you make the lower links around 1/4" longer than the top ones it will level out the axle making it easier on the servos (both for turning and for wear). The stock links are the same length for all four.

If you are going to be using the stock shocks you probably won't want to make the links a lot longer than stock unless you plan on moving the shock mounts... Too long and they either won't reach, or they won't be compressing to their full capacity.

Hopes that helps!

[kurtus]

This def helps, thanks so much for you time guys. I think I'm going to have a look around to see if I can file some long threaded rods, would 3mm work better with traxxas link ends or should I be fine with 4 40 as it's probably easier to find?

Originally Posted by PoorBoyCrawler

Any hardware store should have the threaded rod. It normally is with the raw sheets of metal, diamond plate, etc. Just ask somebody when you get there where they keep it. Your local hobby store might carry it as well. I don't mind moving the shock mounts but I'm assuming I'd have to fab something or is there room to move and mount differently? Thanks again, Kurt.

And as 73fordhighboy said, if you make the lower links around 1/4" longer than the top ones it will level out the axle making it easier on the servos (both for turning and for wear). The stock links are the same length for all four.

If you are going to be using the stock shocks you probably won't want to make the links a lot longer than stock unless you plan on moving the shock mounts... Too long and they either won't reach, or they won't be compressing to their full capacity.

Hopes that helps!

[kurtus]

What did you use to cover the new threaded rod in the middle so they don't catch on rocks and stuff?

Originally Posted by 73fordhighboy

hey kurtus, basically for the links- just take em off, cut them in half- drill out the center, thread them with 4-40 all-thread. for the length, on a stock chassis, i think it was like 1/4 inch difference give or take between upper and lower (i honestly cant remember). the first grinding or crunching sounds you'll hear is most likely going to be the idler gear. it's the one that the pinion meshes with.



kurt

p.s. nice name

[Rockfrog]

I sleeved mine in Brass tube when I lengthened them. I just filled the gap between the two pieces inside the tube with JBweld. Been holding up so far.
I also used traxxas 98mm uppers and 106mm lowers for while, worked really well.

[username]

Originally Posted by Rockfrog

I sleeved mine in Brass tube when I lengthened them. I just filled the gap between the two pieces inside the tube with JBweld. Been holding up so far.
I also used traxxas 98mm uppers and 106mm lowers for while, worked really well.

I hear cheap pens work good too, slippery. just be sure your parts fit in them...

[jwo]

another one i do, 3/16 brake line. instead of running 4-40 all the way through it. ill take like a 1 1/2 or 1 3/4'' 4-40 screw cut the head off it. slide it in the tube with enough exposed to thread on the end link fitting. after that i take a pair of linesmans pliers and crimp the tube. works great for me. only had one break on me. and i run them in all my crawlers. i always face the crimped side in so it doesnt look as bad. you cant really get much cheaper then that. 5 or 6 feet of brake line. 4 bucks.screws to do it 38 cents if that.if you can pick up hardware from a place that will sell it to you by the pound.then you have enough to replaace all your links. if you ask me thats link making at its cheapest. cost you more for the link fittings sadly.

[kurtus]

This is sorta what I was thinking only using my m3x16mm link screws but your way would be much stronger. Thanks so much for this idea, have you tried to make bent links this way? Any pics of the links?

Originally Posted by jwo

another one i do, 3/16 brake line. instead of running 4-40 all the way through it. ill take like a 1 1/2 or 1 3/4'' 4-40 screw cut the head off it. slide it in the tube with enough exposed to thread on the end link fitting. after that i take a pair of linesmans pliers and crimp the tube. works great for me. only had one break on me. and i run them in all my crawlers. i always face the crimped side in so it doesnt look as bad. you cant really get much cheaper then that. 5 or 6 feet of brake line. 4 bucks.screws to do it 38 cents if that.if you can pick up hardware from a place that will sell it to you by the pound.then you have enough to replaace all your links. if you ask me thats link making at its cheapest. cost you more for the link fittings sadly.

[kurtus]

Thanks rockfrog, Any pics of what you mean here? Where and what size brass did you use?

Originally Posted by Rockfrog

I sleeved mine in Brass tube when I lengthened them. I just filled the gap between the two pieces inside the tube with JBweld. Been holding up so far.
I also used traxxas 98mm uppers and 106mm lowers for while, worked really well.

[jwo]

Originally Posted by kurtus420

This is sorta what I was thinking only using my m3x16mm link screws but your way would be much stronger. Thanks so much for this idea, have you tried to make bent links this way? Any pics of the links?

yes i have. its really easy to do. i actually just finish my links on my 1/10 newest crawler tonight. what i would recommend is that if you plan on keeping the same wheelbase. take one of your links off so when you make new links( bent or not) you have something to compare to. i dont have any pics of it. ill see if i can at some point to help you out.making the bent links are just as easy. i'll usually cut the flare off the line with a brake line cutter. file the end down to get it flat. ream the hole. ill put the 4-40 screw in the end link fitting. then cut the head off. slide it in the tube. crimp the line good so the screw will stay in. do a half turn on the end link fitting.take a rough measurement. longer is better. you can always cut it down. when i do bent links i try to keep the link straight with the bottom of the chassis. as far as where to bend it. i couldnt really explain that one(different degrees for height. i usually eye ball it. it you mess it up most of the time you can straighten it. and bend it again in a different area to get it where you want. i probably sound like a cheap skate doing links this way. im happy with them. and like i said i've only had one break on me. i would rather make something then just buy it. if i cant build it, then i have no issues buying it. after all its part of the hobby.theres many different wasys of making links. hope this helps.

[kurtus]

This is a great explanation, I guess I'll have to try it and see. Thanks for your help!!! And thanks to everyone else who's helped.

Originally Posted by jwo

yes i have. its really easy to do. i actually just finish my links on my 1/10 newest crawler tonight. what i would recommend is that if you plan on keeping the same wheelbase. take one of your links off so when you make new links( bent or not) you have something to compare to. i dont have any pics of it. ill see if i can at some point to help you out.making the bent links are just as easy. i'll usually cut the flare off the line with a brake line cutter. file the end down to get it flat. ream the hole. ill put the 4-40 screw in the end link fitting. then cut the head off. slide it in the tube. crimp the line good so the screw will stay in. do a half turn on the end link fitting.take a rough measurement. longer is better. you can always cut it down. when i do bent links i try to keep the link straight with the bottom of the chassis. as far as where to bend it. i couldnt really explain that one(different degrees for height. i usually eye ball it. it you mess it up most of the time you can straighten it. and bend it again in a different area to get it where you want. i probably sound like a cheap skate doing links this way. im happy with them. and like i said i've only had one break on me. i would rather make something then just buy it. if i cant build it, then i have no issues buying it. after all its part of the hobby.theres many different wasys of making links. hope this helps.