weird glitching any suggestions!

[rockbound]

so i was out messing around today with the clod and it starting glitching really bad, and stalling. had to give her a push to get it going. Never had this problem before. I just swithched from hi-tec servos to airtronic servos and this was the first time running with the new servos. Could it be because of them? Running a super rooster speed control and mag mayhem motors.

It would stall when it was sort of in a bind or hard climb type situation when using both servos and giving throttle.

Thanks

[HPI Stampede]

You should talk to FishMaxx because hes running a Super Rooster and its glitching but hes not quite sure what it is that I'm aware of. Check if any of your wires melted together anywhere. Also how close is the ESC to the receiver? That could cause some problems.

[BlueMonster]

It seems I just read a similar thread to this one. Sounds like you need a rx battery...

[rockbound]

I though that running the super rooster eliminated the need for an rx pack.

[SVEN]

glitching suggestions:
TX antenna not up
RX antenna not up
RX touching metal or graphite
Running around flouresant lights (I think that is the type that causes glitching)
If your motors are well used, you may need new brushes. Worn out brushes make the motor stop (having the affect of a glitch), and you will have to give it a "push start" to get it going again.
A worn out commutator (with the same principle as stated above with the brushes)
Low battery. (car and transmitter)
Anyone else on the same frequency.
Check for any nicks or cuts in all of the wiring.
And as others have said, the lack of power due to your 22 turn motors and 2 servos could also be a factor.

I would first try a reciever pack and if that didn't work, then that eliminates that possibility. And then try something else. Just don't try too many things at once, cause then you won't know which one was the real problem when it goes away.

[AdamF]

I'm having the same problem with my regular rooster, when my RX pack gets low it starts glitching. When its fully charged its fine.

[cstmp8r]

How strange, i too am having that same problem. Sometimes it would stop altogether and not go at all, then i smack the left side of the truck where the esc is and then it would go again. So i thought that the xrs was bad and pulled it out and replaced it...same thing. WTF....

[GReddy]

try cleaning out your reciever sometimes dirt and junk gets inside

[rockbound]

I really was trying to avoid running rx packs! I was thinking of going with the lathe motors, i am not sure how old the mag mayhems are because they came with the axles when I bought them. I was hoping for longer run times so i leaning towards the lathes.


would this resolve the possible lack of power problem with the motors.

Thanks for all the suggestions i will check some of them out!

[ILoveRCRockCrawlin]

ok im really surprised no one has said this cause its usually the first thing said when people talk about glitching problem. if you have the tamiya connectors get rid of them. i had the same problem.

[JohnRobHolmes]

this thread has plenty of responses, but i would like to point out the most probable.

you just switched servos, and is sounds exactly like you are overdrawing your esc's bec. how many cells are you running? if you use more than 6 cells it makes your bec current even lower.

beyond the normal reciever and antennae problems (which you probably dont have because it sounds like you didnt change anything besides the servos) the only other likely cause would be if you are running a micro or mini reciever. if too much current is drawn through the reciever, it will cause all kinds of ruckus.

first solution, plug in a reciever pack to see if its the esc's bec being too weak. second solution, wire the servos' power wires direct from the esc to see if the reciever is having to pass more current than it can handle.

[rockbound]

i am running zagi pack batteries 1800 mah with 8 cells. The receiver is the traxas reciever that came with my t-maxx and tq3 radio.

What exactly is bec count. and should i be running a different battery, would a different batter also give me longer run times? my run times are around 25-30 min. this is why I wanted to go with the lathe motors.

And yes, the only thing i changed was the servos, i had no problems with the hi-tec servos

thanks

Originally Posted by johnrobholmes

this thread has plenty of responses, but i would like to point out the most probable.

you just switched servos, and is sounds exactly like you are overdrawing your esc's bec. how many cells are you running? if you use more than 6 cells it makes your bec current even lower.

beyond the normal reciever and antennae problems (which you probably dont have because it sounds like you didnt change anything besides the servos) the only other likely cause would be if you are running a micro or mini reciever. if too much current is drawn through the reciever, it will cause all kinds of ruckus.

first solution, plug in a reciever pack to see if its the esc's bec being too weak. second solution, wire the servos' power wires direct from the esc to see if the reciever is having to pass more current than it can handle.

[SVEN]

Originally Posted by rockbound

i am running zagi pack batteries 1800 mah with 8 cells. The receiver is the traxas reciever that came with my t-maxx and tq3 radio.

hmmm, are those the 2/3 size batteries? They may not be able to supply the amount of juice you need if they are. Another thing you could try is a Tekin Rebel 2, it has a 6 volt/ 5 amp BEC.

[JohnRobHolmes]

with mag mayhems, the current strain can make the 2/3-A pack voltage drop badly which can in turn cause glitching. do you have a normal 6 cell sub-C pack you could try rockbound? if you have been running this zagi pack a lot then it could be worn out and be prone to voltage depressions.

a reciever pack would give you longer runtimes, but not by too much. maybe 8 minutes or so. i do not know what the bec count is you are talking about. maybe you misread one of my words?

[rockbound]

ok, so i do not know much about batteries. this is my first electric rc, i was into the nitro trucks.

I was under the impression that those zagi packs where what the guys with the stick chassis were using. Should i be using a different type of battery?

I do not understand what you mean when you talk about 2/3 size battery compared to normal battery or BEC or sub-C pack.

I do not have any other batteries except the 2 zagi packs a bought.

should i be running a pack that has a higher mah? what ever thet is i do not know either.

Thanks

[JohnRobHolmes]

ill fill you in a bit on some of these terms we are throwing around.

BEC stands for battery eliminating circuitry. it eliminates the need for a reciever pack, if it is strong enough.

if you were running lathe motors the zagi packs would work. they are still not as tough as a bigger pack though. they cant withstand high discharge rates.

the 2/3 A and sub-C refers to the individual cell size. a 2/3-A is about 2/3rds the size of a AA battery. the sub-C batteries are a touch smaller than your normal energizer C's.

for the most part, yes you should be running a pack with more mAH. the mAH stands for milli-amp-hour, which you probably know. in general, packs with more mAH can give more amps out for those power hungry motors. sub-C size batteries have the highest discharge current rating (80 amps or more peak). the newer lipos could surpass that. in comparison your zagi packs might be able to handle 30 to 40 amps peak.

a little formula- 1000 milliamps is one amp. therefore a 1000 milliamp hour battery will last one hour with a one amp draw. if the draw is four amps, it would last 15 minutes. etc, etc.

[rockbound]

Originally Posted by johnrobholmes

ill fill you in a bit on some of these terms we are throwing around.

BEC stands for battery eliminating circuitry. it eliminates the need for a reciever pack, if it is strong enough.

if you were running lathe motors the zagi packs would work. they are still not as tough as a bigger pack though. they cant withstand high discharge rates.

the 2/3 A and sub-C refers to the individual cell size. a 2/3-A is about 2/3rds the size of a AA battery. the sub-C batteries are a touch smaller than your normal energizer C's.

for the most part, yes you should be running a pack with more mAH. the mAH stands for milli-amp-hour, which you probably know. in general, packs with more mAH can give more amps out for those power hungry motors. sub-C size batteries have the highest discharge current rating (80 amps or more peak). the newer lipos could surpass that. in comparison your zagi packs might be able to handle 30 to 40 amps peak.

a little formula- 1000 milliamps is one amp. therefore a 1000 milliamp hour battery will last one hour with a one amp draw. if the draw is four amps, it would last 15 minutes. etc, etc.

Cool. thanks for the clearifications

I just ordered lathe motors for my crawler, what kind of battery packs do you recommend using. I would like to get at least 45 run times out of them.

How can i tell what kind of draw my crawler is pulling?

how can i tell what my BEC is?

[JohnRobHolmes]

since you are running a super rooster, you have 3 amps of bec current available to your servos (minus the recievers negligable draw).

i would use any standard 6 cell stick pack. if you want runtime then get at least 3000 mah batteries. do you have a local hobby shop? if not then try a place like cheapbatterypacks.com they have a 36 dollar gp 3300 pack part C6GP3300SCHRFT. select premade packs and then select cars at the top menu.

there is no solid way to tell what kind of amp draw you are dealing with, unless you got a draw meter and installed it inline with your battery pack. i have only seen one kind, and they are huge. im sure that someone makes a smaller one....

[rockbound]

Originally Posted by johnrobholmes

since you are running a super rooster, you have 3 amps of bec current available to your servos (minus the recievers negligable draw).

I take it that is enough, or should it be more? I would assume the only way to get more is to run rx packs, correct? Or would a battery with more mah also work?

Originally Posted by johnrobholmes

i would use any standard 6 cell stick pack. if you want runtime then get at least 3000 mah batteries. do you have a local hobby shop? if not then try a place like cheapbatterypacks.com they have a 36 dollar gp 3300 pack part C6GP3300SCHRFT. select premade packs and then select cars at the top menu.

you say, "if you want runtime then get at least 3000 mah batteries." is there any negatives to using these packs, you say it like if run time is all you care about, use these, but are there any drawbacks?


since these packs have a higher mah, do they take longer to charge?

thanks again! you have been very helpfull!

[Will]

Originally Posted by rockbound

so i was out messing around today with the clod and it starting glitching really bad, and stalling. had to give her a push to get it going. Never had this problem before. I just swithched from hi-tec servos to airtronic servos and this was the first time running with the new servos. Could it be because of them? Running a super rooster speed control and mag mayhem motors.

It would stall when it was sort of in a bind or hard climb type situation when using both servos and giving throttle.

Thanks

how hot were your esc,motor, and batteries