Killing servo's

[VaultBoy]

I keep killing steering servos left and right. Im not striping them out, just burning them up. I put a brand new one in my crawler and it died after 10 seconds! WTF???? I'm running a 12v lipo and a Futaba T3PRKA transmitter and receiver.

[richardgarrett56]

what kind of servos are you killing?

[VaultBoy]

The one that lasted the longest is a Hobbico Digital CS150 and the one that I just killed was a Power HD 1501MG

[billj]

Originally Posted by VaultBoy

I keep killing steering servos left and right. Im not striping them out, just burning them up. I put a brand new one in my crawler and it died after 10 seconds! WTF???? I'm running a 12v lipo and a Futaba T3PRKA transmitter and receiver.

12volt lipo? Are you running a bec? What kind of serevos? Need a little more info

[richardgarrett56]

you need at lest a 300oz servo and a castle creations bec.im sure it's a 11volt lipo bill

[VaultBoy]

The one that lasted the longest is a Hobbico Digital CS150 and the one that I just killed was a Power HD 1501MG. Not using a BEC

[VaultBoy]

It is an 11v lipo, it just reads 12v at full charge. So my problem is that im overpowering the servos??

[billj]

Originally Posted by VaultBoy

It is an 11v lipo, it just reads 12v at full charge. So my problem is that im overpowering the servos??

Thats what it sounds like. What esc are you using?

[Charlie-III]

So, you're running the servo off the RX, thus a safe voltage regardless of the battery voltage. You may even be a bit low on servo voltage.

Have you checked your steering linkage for binding?
Have you checked the steering EPA's?

Those are the 2 most common reasons for frying servo's.

Once you get to ~200inoz, you WILL want an external BEC. Most of us use the Castle Creations 10A BEC.
I prefer the BEC to be direct wired to the servo instead of through the RX.

[VaultBoy]

Explain end point adjustment

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by VaultBoy

Explain end point adjustment

It's a setting in the radio that stops the servo movement before it binds the steering. If the EPA is set incorrectly (too wide), the steering linkage will stop moving but the radio is still supplying power to the servo. This generates a lot of heat in the servo and will shorten it's life.
I set my EPA's to "just short" of steering bind.

Note: not all radios have EPA's.

[Trubble]

Looks like that radio only has throttle EPAs, none for steering.

If your steering is binding at full lock, might need to try a shorter steering arm.




EDIT: Went back and looked at that manual again, looks like you've got a 'dual rate' knob next to your CH3 switch. Turn that down some. (EPA lets you adjust each side independently, Dual Rate narrows both sides the same)

[Kylar]

If you really burnt it in 10 seconds i would guess a faulty esc or receiver is pushing too much voltage through it. Even if your end points arent adjusted you wouldnt kill a servo that fast.

[VaultBoy]

Yea. its not the endpoint adjustment then, i have it set just before it kits the shocks so no binding. Ive decided its the lack of a bec, im just overvolting the hell outa the servos. I have the receiver powered from the battery circuit, not thru the esc so im putting a straight 11v to the servos, killing them in the process. Oh well, off to the hobby store tomorrow for a servo and a bec, thanks for the help!!!!

[FauxMako]

Check the power specs on that receiver too. It might be the next thing that the magic smoke comes out of if it's not rated for 11.8v.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by VaultBoy

I have the receiver powered from the battery circuit, not thru the esc so I'm putting a straight 11v to the servos, killing them in the process.

Yep, that much voltage will fry a servo. A 2S LiPO may be better for the servo.
I would use the BEC in the ESC to power the RX, if you're over ~200inoz for the servo, an external BEC is the best bet.

[Solitaire]

Both the HD1501 and the Rx for the Futaba T3PRKA are listed at 7.2V max. Time to do some rewiring.