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Old 10-16-2012, 11:32 AM   #1
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Default Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

Im plan on picking up a brushless goat 18.5 for my scx 10 toyota hilux any one used this motor and if it has issues, I will mostle be scaling and some climbing. another question is will my stock trans and drive axles hold up its all stock? thanks
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:40 AM   #2
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

A friend of mine runs a Ballistick 18.5 Crawler motor and a Novak Goat 3s and hasnt had any problems and he likes it. You'll hear a lot of opinions around here on Novak stuff, most of the bad stuff is regarding the escs, everyone seems to like their motors though, some good reviews some bad take it for what its worth.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:17 PM   #3
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

I dont like anything they make, seems like everything is problematic.

I would recommend Tekin stuff over Novak any day of the week although it is a little more expensive.

No, your driveline wont hold up. Driveshafts will be the first to go, many people cant keep them together with a 35t brushed motor let alone a brushless motor. You will probably want/need to upgrade the gears in the trans as well as the axles.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:24 PM   #4
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

i've been running a goat 3s with a 18.5 brushless in my scx10 scaler for awhile now (on 2s). no issues and i like it alot. i do have it geared down because i like to run pretty slow. i'm far from rough on mine so i might not be one to speak to the durability. i'm running rr gears in the tranny with stock driveshafts.

like others have said novak's reputation is far from stellar. people have both good and bad experiences with their products.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:49 PM   #5
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

wow thats some good info thanks guys its the ballistic motor with esc yay ill probly have to upgrade my drive train thats for sure it only makes sense seen alot of videos these motors are really fast. How about in water does it hold up well.?
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:50 PM   #6
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jebster View Post
i've been running a goat 3s with a 18.5 brushless in my scx10 scaler for awhile now (on 2s). no issues and i like it alot. i do have it geared down because i like to run pretty slow. i'm far from rough on mine so i might not be one to speak to the durability. i'm running rr gears in the tranny with stock driveshafts.

like others have said novak's reputation is far from stellar. people have both good and bad experiences with their products.
do you have any videos? and are you able to crawl pretty well with this motor or is it to overpowering
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:54 PM   #7
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jebster View Post
i've been running a goat 3s with a 18.5 brushless in my scx10 scaler for awhile now (on 2s). no issues and i like it alot. i do have it geared down because i like to run pretty slow. i'm far from rough on mine so i might not be one to speak to the durability. i'm running rr gears in the tranny with stock driveshafts.

like others have said novak's reputation is far from stellar. people have both good and bad experiences with their products.
im new to this how did you gear down your scaler what pinion size do you have on your motor and what gears in your diffs? or trans? can I see what your running so I have a idea on what upgrades ill need to do thanks!
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:41 PM   #8
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

Hey Zion,

I just picked up 2 of these myself. I have only ran one for about 10 minutes total just to test it out in my yard. I can say the low end is incredibly smooth. I honestly don't see how it isn't smooth enough for some people who say they have to use brushed. I ran mine in an SCX-10 with stock spur and 17T pinion, so 87/17. The little bit I ran it around it was quite fast. It could almost drift in the gravel. It twisted the driveshaft like it wasn't even there. It was a wild boar shaft. I haven't done the mod to it yet. I plan on swapping a set of MIPs to handle the power.

Brushless motors are definitely no joke. When a brushed motor is really bound up, it wlil kind of give up and your drivetrain can survive. In my experience if you bind a brushless motor they DO NOT CARE, they have no feelings or remorse and they TAKE NO PRISONERS. Like a truly great comic book villain, they will destroy anything that tries to stop them.

With regard to waterproofing a brushless motor: I searched on here a ton before trying brushless. I kept seeing one person who said they are fine in water for every one who said absolutely not okay in the water. So I decided test it out myself and buy 2 Holmes Hobbies revolver motors because they are cheap as far as brushless motors go. I proceeded to put them in my scalers and me and a friend ran them in the mud and water for about 3 hours or so. They have been just fine since then. Now, the key there is that those are sensorless motors. All that proves is that brushless can tolerate the water. In my opinion they were much better in the water than brushed can sometimes be. The main theme is that you have to waterproof the sensor board. I have a post in the stickied waterproofing thread that shows the motor all taken apart. I plan on liquid taping the sensor boards and then soaking the rotor part of the motor in several baths of corrosion x. So many people on here swear by it and it should keep the motor itself from corroding. It will be several months before I have time and money to do this. That said, I have seen people on here waterproof sensored brushless motors and claim they are just fine in the water. Check out the last page of the waterproofing electronics thread on here.

In short, I recommend this motor, but haven't put a lot of hours on it. Yes it can be made to survive water, but I have not tried this first hand either.

Edit: Forgot to answer your other questions: I have the HD diff gears front and rear, MIP shafts will be going on the truck and I run the robinson racing steel gears in the trans.

***CKRC Crawlers sells these motors for $75 ! ! ! ***

https://www.ckrccrawlers.com/novak-b...2fea4ac3a0f125

Last edited by hibbs; 10-16-2012 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:57 PM   #9
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

You'll need to coat the sensor board with corrosion x or similar. Best to put the ESC in a box, they get water inside easy and I gave up on sealing it out.

Having ran the Goat and a Mamba Max Pro in the same truck with the same 13.5 motor I can say the MMP is better in every aspect. Smoother low end, higher top speed, way better drag brake function. Programming is a breeze and you can up the voltage and really through some power down.

Eventually every peice of the drivetrain is gonna go, driveshafts, old style outputs, front shafts, lockers, and then gears.

Last edited by indiana mudcat; 10-16-2012 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:29 PM   #10
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

thanks for all the input i appreciate it alot guys Im actually getting a good deal on this motor so what the heck cant wait to install it ill give the results and my input. If it doesnt work out I still have the stock axial 27t lol
DOES ANY ONE NO WHAT I CAN DO TO MY STOCK DRIVE SHAFT TO STRENGHTEN IT UNTILL I GET UPGRADES? THANKS
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:30 PM   #11
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

Hey HIBBS whats the upgrade you need to do on the wild boar driveshaft?
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:47 AM   #12
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

The upgrade is explained here: Jthellfire's C2/Foff rig with big Powa!!

You basically run two female shafts on the axle and trans, then use a section of cut off male shaft to join the two. You also need to fill the center of the male shaft to prevent it from collapsing and deforming. There are different means of doing this like using the axial stock links that are 6mm diameter, they fit nice and snug inside the shaft. Some only do this and not the above linked approach. I think the above method with 2 female shafts might be better as JT explains that nobody really breaks the female ends. That setup eliminates the male ends to an extent. If you have a dingo kit, the good news is there are extra shafts in the kit to do this. I'm not sure on the honcho... If you need extra plastic shafts they are only about $8. Axial part number AX80084.

Probably the best bet for protecting your drivetrain is going to be using the slipper clutch. I'd suggest setting it very loose, say 3.5 turns out from tightened down. Then drive the truck and gradually get it tighter until you can crawl over obstacles and still have slip when your really bound up. That'll protect you until you can buy the heavier parts. Also, I tend to break parts when I'm struggling for traction. When you can't quite make it over a ledge and you're keeping it pinned to spin and claw your way over... That's when I find I end up breaking stuff. You can keep that in mind as well and just try to be a bit easier on it so you don't end up broken and waiting on parts to come in.
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:04 PM   #13
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Default Re: Brushless 18.5 3s goat motor? worth getting?

well explain hibbs thanks for all the info. I have the slipper clutch on my trans now and i definitly will pick up new driveshafts and do this mod. I have a good esc and also using the 27t motor with a 14t pinion which i dont mind for now. but will get up grades before I install the brushless. Thanks ago bro
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