Vintage kyosho Le Mans motor questions... John? Eddie?

[Calderwood]

The following questions are about these motors:










If I understand correctly the 480, 600, etc doesn't identify the size like normal, but identifies how many seconds the motor should run on a 1200mah nicad pack. (I remember racing with those packs... Lol). Is this correct?

I know the 600 is a 30t. It seems like it might have potential.

How is the aluminum front face attached to the steel can?

The end bell looks very minimal/light. Is there any issue with them? Some seem to have plastic end bells while others have a similar looking aluminum end bell.

What magnets did these have?

Finally a question about the trinity tuned versions of these. Are the magnets different or are these the same motor but wound by big Jim?

[EddieO]

The plate it attached a few ways. Its been forever since I played with one. Some were crimped like a sealed endbell, some glued....some with screws. There was a lot of variations of those motors.

The aluminum endbell is not very light at all, especially compared to a plastic unit....plus certain steps had to be taken to insulate the brush hoods.

Old ceramic mags of some sorts, back then they didn't really brag about the magnet type.....


Trinity versions were tuned, came in handwound versions....same base teardown though. Certainly not done by jim, way before he worked at trinity. Jim did sell a few of the teardowns under his checkpoint label though.....

Later EddieO

Originally Posted by nigels_world

The following questions are about these motors:










If I understand correctly the 480, 600, etc doesn't identify the size like normal, but identifies how many seconds the motor should run on a 1200mah nicad pack. (I remember racing with those packs... Lol). Is this correct?

I know the 600 is a 30t. It seems like it might have potential.

How is the aluminum front face attached to the steel can?

The end bell looks very minimal/light. Is there any issue with them? Some seem to have plastic end bells while others have a similar looking aluminum end bell.

What magnets did these have?

Finally a question about the trinity tuned versions of these. Are the magnets different or are these the same motor but wound by big Jim?

[TEDROCKZ]

Originally Posted by EddieO

The plate it attached a few ways. Its been forever since I played with one. Some were crimped like a sealed endbell, some glued....some with screws. There was a lot of variations of those motors.

Roll pins in some versions

[Calderwood]

It seems like it would be a cool can to lathe and stick some decent magnets in.

[JohnRobHolmes]

I have a handfull of pinned and screw affixed cans here. Good stock to start from if you wanted a two piece can. It does make magnet installation easier to jig. If you bug sales for loose parts we could set you up with any parts needed and point you to glues. Magnets are best zapped in the can, but we could send them in a junk one so you could slide them in as a pair with constant back iron to keep the mag field together.


All in all a lot of work, but if you have the time and resources it's fun to fiddle with. Cleaning out the old can is the hard part. Bake the sucker at 400F+ for 15 minutes or as long as you like. Knock the magnets out and then sand or wire brush out the leftover crap. Degrease with acetone, then glue.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I have a handfull of pinned and screw affixed cans here. Good stock to start from if you wanted a two piece can. It does make magnet installation easier to jig. If you bug sales for loose parts we could set you up with any parts needed and point you to glues. Magnets are best zapped in the can, but we could send them in a junk one so you could slide them in as a pair with constant back iron to keep the mag field together.


All in all a lot of work, but if you have the time and resources it's fun to fiddle with. Cleaning out the old can is the hard part. Bake the sucker at 400F+ for 15 minutes or as long as you like. Knock the magnets out and then sand or wire brush out the leftover crap. Degrease with acetone, then glue.

Fiddling is exactly what I want to do. Just slapping a motor on the axle has become pretty stale for me. I want to start building my motors. One of these days I am going to chuck up a can in my 4th axis and give a shot at lightening it up a bit. I might as well give a shot at machining an endbell as well...

Would I be better off making an endbell that would use checkpoint brushes or would v2 brushes be better? The v2 brushes bounce less, correct? V2 brushes seem like they wouldn't stick out towards the rocks as much either.

[Colgout]

Thanks for posting this. It brings back memory of my teenage days with Turbo Optima and le man motor. I had the green 480 and the brown 240. The 240 need to use very small pinion from memory....

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Colgout

Thanks for posting this. It brings back memory of my teenage days with Turbo Optima and le man motor. I had the green 480 and the brown 240. The 240 need to use very small pinion from memory....

That would make sense (the small pinion) since it was rated to drain a 1200mah in 240 seconds.

[JohnRobHolmes]

Both are good brushes, can't really go wrong.

[envious8420]

wow, thanks for posting this up. i have the 480 gold and always wondered the background on these.

e

[YJ_Driver]

"If I understand correctly the 480, 600, etc doesn't identify the size like normal, but identifies how many seconds the motor should run on a 1200mah nicad pack. (I remember racing with those packs... Lol). Is this correct?"

This is correct.

I still use a few 600Es in my slower fun cars like my Lunch Box. I have an instruction sheet which I think lists the windings, I'll scan and post it tonight.

[YJ_Driver]

Here's the manual that came with the motors.

Page 1:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Page 2:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink