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Old 02-07-2007, 09:03 PM   #21
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that was some good info for me thanks guys
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Old 02-07-2007, 09:20 PM   #22
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Glad to help....

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Old 02-07-2007, 10:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanis
IB knows what he is talking about, even his son is one of the best racers in WA.
"onroad monkeys"
Well I guess I am going to have to tell all the factory drivers and other pro's they are doing it all wrong and yes in the winter I am an onroad monkey but I race off road in the summer and I see the guy's throwing the brushes out just as fast-I am sure that there is people that have differant opinion's but I have seen ALL the fast guy's tossing the brushes as soon as the serration is gone as I myself am too cheap for that and reserrate them a few times if they aren't toast. I race with guy's who race at national races and they all replace their brushes after a few runs if not every run but us people that don't get free stuff to do that have to run them for what they are worth.

Basically it all comes down to surface contact, this is why we all have experimented with notching and drilling out brushes and trying to reduce resistance and that is no differant with onroad or off road.

I know that it does not make that much of a differance in a crawler motor which is what this thread is all about, but I still think a new set of brushes and a comm cut will help this gentleman out with his motor.
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:14 PM   #24
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Yes, a new set of brushes and a comm cut would definitely help this gentleman out.
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIRMAXXALOT
Well I guess I am going to have to tell all the factory drivers and other pro's they are doing it all wrong and yes in the winter I am an onroad monkey but I race off road in the summer and I see the guy's throwing the brushes out just as fast-I am sure that there is people that have differant opinion's but I have seen ALL the fast guy's tossing the brushes as soon as the serration is gone as I myself am too cheap for that and reserrate them a few times if they aren't toast. I race with guy's who race at national races and they all replace their brushes after a few runs if not every run but us people that don't get free stuff to do that have to run them for what they are worth.

Basically it all comes down to surface contact, this is why we all have experimented with notching and drilling out brushes and trying to reduce resistance and that is no differant with onroad or off road.


I know that it does not make that much of a differance in a crawler motor which is what this thread is all about, but I still think a new set of brushes and a comm cut will help this gentleman out with his motor.




Look I'm not trying to bust your balls, but you are making statments on what you think is true, based on what you see and not what you know to be fact.

My son is 100% with a motor and battery company and we have never changed brushs because the serrations are gone, on a motor dyno you can see the power increase the more seated in they get.

My son races with the factory pros in elect off road, and is on the Mugen factory team in gas off road.

Also there is a big differance in the way you tune a motor for on road, lighter springs cut brushs, its more about RPM in on road.

Sounds like you race stock?
What factory pros do you race with, we might know them?

Heres a little something to ponder, The Factory pros do some of the stuff they do, to sell parts. its there job.

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Old 02-08-2007, 12:34 AM   #26
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Well I do agree with you on many points and I guess if we all had the same philosphy on motors we would all have the same HP--lol and yes I mainly run stock with occasional 19T. Oddly I did have differant results after a 200 second break in on a Fantom dyno-I do not trust dyno results any more so I don't even have one now. I guess I do not know everything there is to know about electric as I have just got serious again about electric in the last few years I was all about the nitro's for a while. My main friend I race with now is a Full Throttle Team racer and he has been very helpful with HP help for me, I am running almost all EA stuff but I now get my stuff from him like brush's and what not, he buy's bulk and sells for his sponsor.
I don't think we race in the same circles and I hate to throw actual(sp? sorry) names out but nicknames can't hurt? WILDMAN or B.B. , Swanny, Kave not a Factory Team guy, and a few other's on and off road. We have a few really good on-road guy's who race nationally too that race in the MN area quite a bit and show up at some of our bigger weekend club's races. We have to run carpet in the winter as ALL of the indoor off-road has shut down which sucks and the weather doesn't permit off road in the winter. Like I said I am not close firends with these guy's but usually end up pitting next to them as we have mutual friends but I do have a lot to learn sorry if I seemed to come of like a know it all but I have done tests on this stuff and thought/think I am not to far off as me as a driver suck but my car is always as fast as most of these guy's( I credit the HP to these guy's helping me).

What gas do you guy's run, 1/10 Gas Truck, 1/8 Buggy or Truggy?
Sorry gettin off the subjct now--lol Happy racing to ya oh and good point with the factory guy's tryin to sell ya on their product ;)
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:43 AM   #27
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Its all good....

We race 1/8 MBX5R Buggy
and MBX5T Truck

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Old 02-08-2007, 12:46 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I B RACIN
Its all good....

We race 1/8 MBX5R Buggy
and MBX5T Truck

I B..
Very cool , I still run an LSP because I am to stubborn to sell it although I really want a Losi 8T just got to much invested in the LSP. It is interesting the differant views people have about electric motors .
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Old 02-09-2007, 06:27 AM   #29
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Quote:
0* timing is best for forward/reverse driving.
Duh! I'm such an idiot. I guess if the motor has to turn both ways...
So - how do I know where zero is? I just put this motor back together w/ no regard for the position of the end bell on the can.
There are 2 notches in the end bell 180 degrees from each other, but I don't see anything on the can to line them up to, unless I've just totally missed it.
I'm leaving for my annual Daytona trip in a couple days, so I'm gonna have to put the 'ol rig away for a couple weeks...
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Old 02-09-2007, 06:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mike
Hey IB - I was reading an article on Castle Creation's site and they got into a little explanation about advancing the timing of a motor by moving the end bell position.
To be honest, I did'nt even notice a way of indexing this on the can or anything yesterday, I just reassembled it like I took it apart.
Can you elaborate on this if you have time?
on the timing thing, for a crawler you want it at 0, and that is with the endbell screw lined up in between the 2 mounting holes.

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Old 02-09-2007, 10:43 AM   #31
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Quote:
and that is with the endbell screw lined up in between the 2 mounting holes.
This totally explains why I seem to have a bit more power in reverse. Man, do I feel dumb now...
Thanks I B
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Old 02-09-2007, 08:18 PM   #32
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Its all good, this is how we all learn...

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