loss of power...

[Big Mike]

Can a motor's performance degrade over time? Is there any maintenance needed to keep them running right?
I can't even get my Integy 65t to make the belt skip in my stock TLT tranny anymore. If I run the truck into something that requires a little effort, it just stalls. It used to skip the belt if it got stuck, nowadays I never hear the belt skip anymore, it just stops. The esc still whines, but I can tell the motor is losing power or stalling or something.
I have another brand new integy 65t motor, but I have not tried it to see if it performs better (can't find the damn soldering iron)
Is the crap Futaba esc I'm using right now to blame?
What esc will power a lathe motor w/o cutting out when it binds?
I want to be able to twist driveshafts, break axles, grind differentials to dust. I'm sick of the stalling. I want driveline-rending POWER.
Should I just pony up for the Mamba Maxx combo? Or can I get an esc that will make my Integy motors perform no matter what you put it through?

[dezfan]

Well all brushed motors need maintenance.

Try cleaning the motor, lubing the bearings, cleaning the the comm, and throwing a fresh set of brushes.

[weeman]

have you checked your batteries?

[k9popo]

run your motor through some water with a little dawn soap in it and pull the brushes away from the comm...lube it up and your ready to go...

[Tanis]

How hot have you gotten your motor? If you overheat them, they can lose performance.

[Tronk]

This link might help you a little.

http://www.dream-models.com/eco/electrics-brushed.html

I have seen within these forums, an article on servicing brushed motors. It had a description and pictures and was very good. I have tried to find it again but cannot remember where it was. I have also tried the search button but with no success. If anyone can post a link to it, you would find it very helpfull.

[RockRevolver]

Mike I got this same exact issue with my 55t integy. LMK how it turns out I got a 65t for now but the 55 is only a few months old with low miles and Id like it to last longer. Keep us informed on your findings.

good luck,
-Keith

[Big Mike]

Thanks Tronk. That helps a lot. I tried like 5 different ways of wording searches and did'nt get much either.
I've touched the motor can several times at the time it's crapping out on me - it's never any more than just warm. I can always easily hold a finger against it w/o any discomfort. Same for the heat sinks on the esc.
I've done nothing to this motor except run the crap out of it for 4 months.
Looking at the new one I can see how to get the brushes out, and it looks like it can be dissassembled, so I'll try to clean it up and see how it goes.

[dabid]

The comm might be glazed a little, pull it out and chuck it in a drill and hit it with some steel wool or light sandpaper. You're not trying to true it, just clean off the layer of gunk built up after hard running in less than perfect conditions.

[DaViolentOne]

Can also go to yer LHS and get a comm-stick... It's a lil thing with one round end and one rectangular end... The round end is for cealnin up the brushes and the rectangular is to stuff in the brush hood to clean the comm... They don't cost very much at all... And worth every penny if you have a removeable brush motor...

[Tanis]

Yeah, 4 months of hard running, you'll want to clean the comm and check your brushes for wear. Depends a lot on the conditions you run in. Dusty conditions wear it out quicker.

[I B RACIN]

Yes these motors need to be worked on.

The very first thing right out of the package is to cut the com, they are way out of round and have a bad taper to them, so the brushs will only touch on one corner, I have had some so bad they would not start up on the dyno.

Put a good race brushs in it, and some heavy springs and you will shread your belt.

Your local hobby shop or race track should help you with that.

I B..

[Big Mike]

I now understand a lot more about how these work, and I appreciate everyone helping me out.
RockRevolver, try this w/ your Integy: Looking at the end bell where the wires attach, the "brushes" are two blocks of metal with a braided wire soldered to them, they point straight in to the motor shaft. Unclip the springs and pull them out, they will be dirty on the end where they make contact. Clean those up, but try to keep it round, you'll see why in the next step.
Next on the end bell are two small phillips screws w/ little tabs under them, nothing else. They hold the end bell on. Remove them and slide the end bell off the shaft, then you'll see what I'm assuming Tanis calls the "comm", it's a bright area where the brushes make contact. Mine had a black stripe around it, which I gently scraped away with an exacto knife (I can see where the "comm stick" could be a handy thing - you would'nt have to take the end bell off) until it was bright and shiny again. Then reassemble in reverse order.
Do this over a white towel, the parts are tiny.
I just ran one pack down the street, and I have to say that the motor definitely performed better than it has been. As good as you can expect in 10 degree weather, that is.
Now IB Racin has given me some ideas as well - like disassembling it again and making sure all the parts are as true to each other as possible and making optimum contact. Mabey even new brushes and heavier springs if I can find them. Hopefully I can make it run even better.
Thanks everyone for helping out...

[Big Mike]

Hey IB - I was reading an article on Castle Creation's site and they got into a little explanation about advancing the timing of a motor by moving the end bell position.
To be honest, I did'nt even notice a way of indexing this on the can or anything yesterday, I just reassembled it like I took it apart.
Can you elaborate on this if you have time?

[SIRMAXXALOT]

Wow this makes electric racing look hard.

An easy way to clean the comm is an pencil eraser, I like the small white block style but any eraser will work. I would even suggest sleaning the comm's on an lathe from time to time-I know they must not get the abuse a race motor does buthaving your comm in good shape from turning it on an lathe acually prolongs the life of an motor and a set of brushes is very cheap to maintain, as soon as the serrations on the brushes are gone they should be replced or at least re-serrated with a brush cutter,

I would NOT recomend the water and soap trick I read about, NOT AT ALL! I would say a pencil will be your BEST bet.

[Tanis]

Big Mike, you don't want to advance you timing unless you are only going forward. 0* timing is best for forward/reverse driving.

[I B RACIN]

Originally Posted by SIRMAXXALOT

Wow this makes electric racing look hard.

An easy way to clean the comm is an pencil eraser, I like the small white block style but any eraser will work. I would even suggest sleaning the comm's on an lathe from time to time-I know they must not get the abuse a race motor does buthaving your comm in good shape from turning it on an lathe acually prolongs the life of an motor and a set of brushes is very cheap to maintain, as soon as the serrations on the brushes are gone they should be replced or at least re-serrated with a brush cutter,

I would NOT recomend the water and soap trick I read about, NOT AT ALL! I would say a pencil will be your BEST bet.

The serrations are only there to help with break in, the most power you will get out of a motor is with full contact with the comm.

That means no taper and the comm round, I break in my motors with a load fan for up to a 1/2 hr at low voltage, to seat the brushs.

on the timing thing, for a crawler you want it at 0, and that is with the endbell screw lined up in between the 2 mounting holes.

I B..

[SIRMAXXALOT]

Originally Posted by I B RACIN

The serrations are only there to help with break in, the most power you will get out of a motor is with full contact with the comm.

I B..

I disagree, at least in race motors, when the serration is gone the performance is too!!!!You can ask any racer-in fact I know a ton of guy's who only make one or two runs on brush's then toss them.
When the serrations are gone there is TOO much contact and acually takes away performance-at least in race motors, I can see how you would no notice any differance in a low RPM torque motor though.

[I B RACIN]

Originally Posted by SIRMAXXALOT

I disagree, at least in race motors, when the serration is gone the performance is too!!!!You can ask any racer-in fact I know a ton of guy's who only make one or two runs on brush's then toss them.
When the serrations are gone there is TOO much contact and acually takes away performance-at least in race motors, I can see how you would no notice any differance in a low RPM torque motor though.

See my screen name, IM a racer so I did what you said and I asked myself, and well............

If you know racers that do that they must be onroad monkeys, because they are only after high rpm power,(pin it and turn left)

In offroad mod racing you might only get 2 or 3 run out of brushs, not because the serrations are gone but because the brushs are burned up.

In low RPM crawler motor's you want full contact, to get the most power.

Torry

[Tanis]

IB knows what he is talking about, even his son is one of the best racers in WA.
"onroad monkeys"