Scx10 -45t integy no power

[Hondarider94]

Have a stock first gen scx10. Stock tires no binding etc. The 27t stock motor was pretty toast.

Bought a 45t integy motor and it just has no power. It binds up easily. Like way easier than the burnt out 27t.

Now i know integy isnt a great brand but the thing sees water and mud often. Didnt wanna spend a pretty penny on a more high dollar system.

Help?

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[GA Dawg]

Do you have another ESC you can use to test?

[Crawler Cads]

Gearing ok? Stock ESC?
Chuck a hw 1080 in it if you haven't already with a 3s and you'll be aok. If not then that motor may have issues!!
I run a Holmes trailmaster 35t in my SCX10 and it's a joy to crawl with and seriously budget

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[Hondarider94]

Yea. But i litterely cut the motor wires off the 27t and soldered them onto the 45t.

And it worked fine before


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[Hondarider94]

Originally Posted by Crawler Cads

Gearing ok? Stock ESC?
Chuck a hw 1080 in it if you haven't already with a 3s and you'll be aok. If not then that motor may have issues!!
I run a Holmes trailmaster 35t in my SCX10 and it's a joy to crawl with and seriously budget

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Yup stock esc and gearing. Litterely cut the wires off the stock motor and soldered onto the new

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[Steve g]

Check your soldering. Could be a bad joint there. Even if it looks ok, redo it. Had a similar issue on my 27t motor. Joint looked fine but after I redid it it ran great.

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[Crawler Cads]

My advice would be a different ESC (HW1080) but I do not know Integy motors so someone else may have a trick or some experience getting it working.


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[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by Hondarider94

Have a stock first gen scx10. Stock tires no binding etc. The 27t stock motor was pretty toast.

Bought a 45t integy motor and it just has no power. It binds up easily. Like way easier than the burnt out 27t.

Now i know integy isnt a great brand but the thing sees water and mud often. Didnt wanna spend a pretty penny on a more high dollar system.

Help?

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OK this is some pretty terrible information. First off you'll want to clarify that you mean it stalls, not binds.
Second you need to provide us with the motor model. If it is a motor with adjustable time, it can be out of time severely and act like it has no power. Additionally if you just cut the wires and tossed it in you could be timed for reverse, which will provide some pretty speed or torque depending on the position of the time.


Pictures are helpful, otherwise post up the motor detail and I am sure someone can get you sorted out.

[Hondarider94]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

OK this is some pretty terrible information. First off you'll want to clarify that you mean it stalls, not binds.
Second you need to provide us with the motor model. If it is a motor with adjustable time, it can be out of time severely and act like it has no power. Additionally if you just cut the wires and tossed it in you could be timed for reverse, which will provide some pretty speed or torque depending on the position of the time.


Pictures are helpful, otherwise post up the motor details.

Ok maybe stall is the word not sure? It climbs horribly and "stalls" on rocks and acts like it has no power.

Second the motor model is an INTEGY 45T incase i didnt make that clear. "Integy 45t motor" on google will bring it right up for ya. It does have adjustable timing, this is not my first rodeo. Ive messed eith many motors before. I matched the positive side to positive and so on and so forth.

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[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by Hondarider94

Ok maybe stall is the word not sure? It climbs horribly and "stalls" on rocks and acts like it has no power.

Second the motor model is an INTEGY 45T incase i didnt make that clear. "Integy 45t motor" on google will bring it right up for ya. It does have adjustable timing, this is not my first rodeo. Ive messed eith many motors before. I matched the positive side to positive and so on and so forth.

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Well in that case you must already know that DC motors don't need to be connected positive to positive, and you must have clearly run the motor while cycling the timing and observed the RPMs.


Oh and Integy currently sells two 45t motors, which doesn't include past motors.



So must have already got you issue fixed, so there is no need to answer your request for assistance.

[Hondarider94]

What is on the wires??
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[Hondarider94]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

Well in that case you must already know that DC motors don't need to be connected positive to positive, and you must have clearly run the motor while cycling the timing and observed the RPMs.


Oh and Integy currently sells two 45t motors, which doesn't include past motors.



So must have already got you issue fixed, so there is no need to answer your request for assistance.

Thats fine, you see how everyone else didnt come off like a major douchebag like you did? They can help me.

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[OSRC]

Some of the advice on this forum ... "go buy a new ESC" - terrible. If it was working fine, chances are it still is. Assuming as well that you didn't change any other settings on your radio or anything.

Only thing to check really after that is make sure the timing is at least set at 0. Most come at 0, but always a good idea to check.

Integy motors are fine. At least as good as any other machine wound motor. There quite an RPM drop from a 27t to a 45t - about 16000 to about 9500 or so (give or take on 2S) A stock SCX10 is geared to get torque from the RPM of the motor - take away those RPM's and you'll notice a lot less power.

Dropping a few teeth on the pinion will get some torque back at the expense of top end, or volt up, or even better both. Didn't say of you were running 2 or 3S, but a 45t motor will run much better on 3S than 2S. You'll get your RPM's back that you lost going with a higher turn motor. OR if you liked how it ran on 27t, go back to a 27t motor. They are certainly cheap enough - a basic machine wound motor is $9.99 or so.

I run an RC4WD 45t /2S in my CFX and it feels gutless. Gets around, but you can really feel how down it is on RPM compared to 27-35t motors.

[Hondarider94]

Im running 2s.

But its not having power to turn the tires on the smallest inclines. I knew a 45t would lose top end but i figured it would give a ton more torque hust at a slow pace.

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[Hondarider94]

Originally Posted by OSRC

Some of the advice on this forum ... "go buy a new ESC" - terrible. If it was working fine, chances are it still is. Assuming as well that you didn't change any other settings on your radio or anything.

Only thing to check really after that is make sure the timing is at least set at 0. Most come at 0, but always a good idea to check.

Integy motors are fine. At least as good as any other machine wound motor. There quite an RPM drop from a 27t to a 45t - about 16000 to about 9500 or so (give or take on 2S) A stock SCX10 is geared to get torque from the RPM of the motor - take away those RPM's and you'll notice a lot less power.

Dropping a few teeth on the pinion will get some torque back at the expense of top end, or volt up, or even better both. Didn't say of you were running 2 or 3S, but a 45t motor will run much better on 3S than 2S. You'll get your RPM's back that you lost going with a higher turn motor. OR if you liked how it ran on 27t, go back to a 27t motor. They are certainly cheap enough - a basic machine wound motor is $9.99 or so.

I run an RC4WD 45t /2S in my CFX and it feels gutless. Gets around, but you can really feel how down it is on RPM compared to 27-35t motors.

First... the blue stuff on the wires.. never seen it before.

Second i dont think timing is adjustable

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[OSRC]

Originally Posted by Hondarider94

Im running 2s.

But its not having power to turn the tires on the smallest inclines. I knew a 45t would lose top end but i figured it would give a ton more torque hust at a slow pace.

Common misconception. You'll have to gear down the 45t to get back the torque.

I assume the blue blob is for balancing the armature.

[allanon1965]

That looks like the timing is adjustable, loosen the screws slightly and rotate the end bell while running it to see how it reacts. There are notches on the end bell that show in your picture.. Secondly the blue stuff may be epoxy of some sort..doubt it is hurting anything

[whitrzac]

Ballance epoxy.

Timing is adjustable on that motor. That's what the inner ring is for, it can rotate when you loosen the endbell screws.

[Hondarider94]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

That looks like the timing is adjustable, loosen the screws slightly and rotate the end bell while running it to see how it reacts. There are notches on the end bell that show in your picture.. Secondly the blue stuff may be epoxy of some sort..doubt it is hurting anything

But there is a notch in the can, and on the endbell the plastic goes down into the can only in one place.
Like you can only turn the endbell 360 degrees

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[Hondarider94]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

Ballance epoxy.

Timing is adjustable on that motor. That's what the inner ring is for, it can rotate when you loosen the endbell screws.

Did you see my recent post? How im not sure how to adjust the timing cuz the notch. I know you turn the endbell..

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