WIP Trail *Pre-* Runner

[smc-93]

I've been wanting to build a 1:10 Baja/pre-runner for a while but I needed the right kit to start building off of.

Along come the Trail Runner. Finally a 1:10 scale truck with a live axle rear and IFS. With its gigantic, dopey looking IFS. So i bought a used TR, with the intention of finding a way to tuck the IFS up closer to the frame.

Today, I've managed to figure out the bulk of the work. I will need to shorted the front drive shaft and skids, figure out the steering and find some slightly longer half shafts. Currently awaiting a rear trailing are conversion as well, should be here by the weekend.

It's has a lot more travel in the front now. The camber changes a bit throughout the full range of travel but there's only some much I can do with all stock parts. The camber change won't really matter once it's wrapped in a Pro-line ranger pre-runner body.

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[durok]

(Watching with interest...)

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

About time someone got rid of that hideous IFS plate! That was one thing I can’t stand about the IFS, it’s so huge and out of scale.

I like the camber change. A 1:1 long travel IFS would do pretty much the same thing. I think it makes it a lot more realistic.

Subbed (if that word even matters anymore lmao)


_________________
https://www.instagram.com/island_crawlaz/

SCX10ii Yota
TRX-4 Bronco

[smc-93]

I'm glad I could spark some interest .

I'll be trying to work out the steering and modifying the skids over the weekend. Possibly fitting the body as well if it shows up when expected.

Looking at some more references photos of long travel 4x4 IFS and I-beam IFS, I'm quite happy with the camber change. Once the trailing arm conversion shows up, I might need to do some more adjustment though in order to increase the front ride height while maintaining 0° camber at the desired height. Creating some additional negative camber under compression to tuck the tires under the body a bit more wouldn't hurt my feelings either.

If everything goes to plan, and everything turns out the way I want, I might have to buy some extra Element IFS kits and convert them into bolt Pre-runner kits. As it stands right now, it's bolts up the same as the stock kit. But the steering rack will end up in front of the differential rather than stacked on top.

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[Zukiiholic]

Looking Great.
Be watching.

[smc-93]

I think I've figured out how I'm going to do the steering, I don't want to discuss the details until I throw it together and see if it'll work the way it does in my head. I'm posting this sort-of update to ask for some advice on the next step to take though.

In order to limit the stress on the steering geometry (as signed in my head) I'll need to buy a low profile servo. Low profile servos don't appear to be to strong and I know nothing of their reliability (without spending full size servo price), put that in a go-fast(ish) and I feel like I might need a servo saver to avoid killing the servo on rough terrain.

My questions, has anybody tried using a stiff, scale friction shock as a steering link? Hopefully the shock could remaining stiff enough to get accurate steering but compress under a sudden impact to the steering. Can anybody recommend a low profile servo, with a decent amount of power, in the $30-$70 range?

[mash914]

I wrote up a big paragraph of why a fluid damper is a bad idea in this scenario with the conclusion that you'd be better off leaving the fluid out which would make it behave a lot like a dedicated servo saver - which upon re-reading your question is exactly what you were asking (reading comprehension)


Now I'm curious too.

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by mash914

I wrote up a big paragraph of why a fluid damper is a bad idea in this scenario with the conclusion that you'd be better off leaving the fluid out which would make it behave a lot like a dedicated servo saver - which upon re-reading your question is exactly what you were asking (reading comprehension)


Now I'm curious too.

I have a pair of RC4WD 70mm shocks. I might give it a shot after I pick up a LP servo

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[Maxx_Action]

Originally Posted by smc-93

I think I've figured out how I'm going to do the steering, I don't want to discuss the details until I throw it together and see if it'll work the way it does in my head. I'm posting this sort-of update to ask for some advice on the next step to take though.

In order to limit the stress on the steering geometry (as signed in my head) I'll need to buy a low profile servo. Low profile servos don't appear to be to strong and I know nothing of their reliability (without spending full size servo price), put that in a go-fast(ish) and I feel like I might need a servo saver to avoid killing the servo on rough terrain.

My questions, has anybody tried using a stiff, scale friction shock as a steering link? Hopefully the shock could remaining stiff enough to get accurate steering but compress under a sudden impact to the steering. Can anybody recommend a low profile servo, with a decent amount of power, in the $30-$70 range?

Check this servo.

Shorty profile, and 20kg at 8.4v

https://www.sendit-rc.com/servos/0ts...category=HV271

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Maxx_Action

Check this servo.



Shorty profile, and 20kg at 8.4v



https://www.sendit-rc.com/servos/0ts...category=HV271

That's looks like exactly what I'm looking for. I think I'll be buying one of those of I can't find something equivalent at my LHS this weekend

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[smc-93]

My steering works! The plan I had rolling around in my head works perfectly (minus steering servo. I have some single piece aluminum spacers coming in the mail as well, the stacked shock stand-offs are only temporary. ATM)

I installed some o-rings behind the drive cups to act as springs and push the drive cup out towards the half shaft. It's not a perfect solution, it'll require some limiting straps and some thing to lock them in place, but it'll do for now.

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[Maxx_Action]

Originally Posted by smc-93

That's looks like exactly what I'm looking for. I think I'll be buying one of those of I can't find something equivalent at my LHS this weekend

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There is a new one for sale on one of the facebook RC groups.

RC Junkies buy sell trade.

[smc-93]

I bought a "Send It RC" low profile servo. It fits perfect with a few aluminum spacers I had laying around. I got a bunch of the body work done as well.

I need to cut out and install the final fender flare and do all the final cuts on the body, all the finishing work around the edges, then take it all apart again for paint.


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[Phyro]

Is that cage from the Axial classic F100? It looks like it goes really well with the body.


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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Phyro

Is that cage from the Axial classic F100? It looks like it goes really well with the body.


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It is. It has taken a bit of modification to make everything (almost) line up where I want it.


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[Shinchu]

This is almost EXACTLY what I have been wanting to build!!!
Very nicely executed! Might have to use some of your tricks but I will eliminate front drivetrain entirely.
I will be going for a more... "retro raptor" approach ;)

Looking REALLY good man!!!

[smc-93]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

This is almost EXACTLY what I have been wanting to build!!!
Very nicely executed! Might have to use some of your tricks but I will eliminate front drivetrain entirely.
I will be going for a more... "retro raptor" approach ;)

Looking REALLY good man!!!

I plan on eliminating the front drivetrain as well, I just haven't bothered trying to remove the half shafts yet. Eventually I'll have a 3D printer spacer made to take the place of the front differential as well

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[c0bra]

You are a bad influence, now for some reason I have a ranger body and an ifs kit sitting around with a puller pro motor begging to get used….. now what chassis?


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[smc-93]

Originally Posted by c0bra

You are a bad influence, now for some reason I have a ranger body and an ifs kit sitting around with a puller pro motor begging to get used….. now what chassis?


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I'm sorry? You're welcome? Whichever is more applicable.

If I'm feeling up to it this weekend, I want to finish the body work (-paint), notch the rear shock towers and back of the cab to get the cage to sit correctly over the chassis and figure out how to remove the front half shafts from the stub axles.

I've got some ideas floating around in my head for a new skid plate that'll wrap from the Axial f100 bumper all the way back to the center skid. It should be a pretty simple () design, cut, bend and install seeing as how the front bulkhead now sits slightly higher than the center skid.

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[TheLetterJ]

How long are those bedsides front to back?