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Old 06-14-2008, 01:23 PM   #1
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Default Dig...... Berg style

Here is a few I made up for some of the Army.
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:25 PM   #2
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sexy...
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Old 06-14-2008, 01:43 PM   #3
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I have a question on wiring these things up. Is it positive from ESC to pole 1 ( c ) and positive from switch to motor on pole 2 ( N.C. ) and of course negative on pole 3 ( N. O.)?
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Old 06-15-2008, 01:37 AM   #4
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I have a question on wiring these things up. Is it positive from ESC to pole 1 ( c ) and positive from switch to motor on pole 2 ( N.C. ) and of course negative on pole 3 ( N. O.)?
If you look at the bottom set up in the picture, it would have the ESC on one side and the motor on the other.
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:14 AM   #5
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If you look at the bottom set up in the picture, it would have the ESC on one side and the motor on the other.
Yes but which side is which? One side of the switch goes positive to open ( I would want the ESC on this side of the switch) and the other goes positive to negitve when activated (this gives you the breaking effect and should be hooked to the motor side , if you hooked this side up the the ESC it would create a dead short) The switch did not come with directions as to which side of the switch does which.
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Old 06-15-2008, 03:23 AM   #6
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O.K. I dug my volt meter out. ESC goes on the roller side ( 2 or NC) left in the picture. The motor goes on the right/non roller side (1 or C)
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:23 AM   #7
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Those are hawt
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:41 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by dorji View Post
If you look at the bottom set up in the picture, it would have the ESC on one side and the motor on the other.
Nope.

You would connect the ESC to the front motor. The one end of the leads piggy back on top of the front leads. The leads you see at the other end connect to the rear motor. When the servo is activated it cuts the positive to the rear and shorts the motors leads creating a dynamic brake. I can post some pics to show the finished install. That is why the leads are so long. Needs to go from motor to motor.
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:09 AM   #9
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I can post some pics to show the finished install. That is why the leads are so long. Needs to go from motor to motor.
I would like to see some pics EDit Some good ones in your origanal post Very Simple and small dig cutoff for the clod

Last edited by Mic; 06-15-2008 at 08:48 PM. Reason: Found your old post
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Old 06-15-2008, 12:25 PM   #10
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I would like to see some pics
X2 please
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Old 06-15-2008, 05:07 PM   #11
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is that for front and rear dig? or just rear dig...
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Old 06-15-2008, 05:27 PM   #12
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is that for front and rear dig? or just rear dig...
Just rear I'm pretty sure you would need 2 switches for dig disco
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Old 06-15-2008, 07:11 PM   #13
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Just rear I'm pretty sure you would need 2 switches for dig disco
yeah, i got the dig working on my 2.2 clod but never had a chance to do front and rear... i know kamikaze does both but didn't understand how he did it, if it was the same for the front as the rear or differently due to how the motors are wired...
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:11 PM   #14
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is that for front and rear dig? or just rear dig...
Just rear.

As you can see the one side piggy backs off the motor and runs through the switch to the rear motor. Unless you can steer the rear wheels I cannot see the benefit of rear dig.
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by FrankyRizzo View Post
Unless you can steer the rear wheels I cannot see the benefit of rear dig.
95% of 1:1 comp rigs do not have rear steer.
95% of 1:1 comp rigs do have rear dig, and use it all the time.

Spend a few minutes watching a 1:1 comp and you'll see it used a lot.

With this berg setup it is really a beneficial tool to have in your box. You already have the servo mounted, you might as well add 1 extra switch. Even if you only use it once, it could be worth it.
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:34 PM   #16
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95% of 1:1 comp rigs do not have rear steer.
95% of 1:1 comp rigs do have rear dig, and use it all the time.

Spend a few minutes watching a 1:1 comp and you'll see it used a lot.

With this berg setup it is really a beneficial tool to have in your box. You already have the servo mounted, you might as well add 1 extra switch. Even if you only use it once, it could be worth it.
he's right. being able to lock the front and burn the rear end around is very helpful. and yes 1:1 comp rigs do it all the time.
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:03 AM   #17
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With this set up, it is hooked up in series. To get front and rear dig, would you just wire the motors in parallel with a switch on each motor?
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Old 06-16-2008, 07:07 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason View Post
95% of 1:1 comp rigs do not have rear steer.
95% of 1:1 comp rigs do have rear dig, and use it all the time.

Spend a few minutes watching a 1:1 comp and you'll see it used a lot.

With this berg setup it is really a beneficial tool to have in your box. You already have the servo mounted, you might as well add 1 extra switch. Even if you only use it once, it could be worth it.
Good to know.
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:43 AM   #19
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at this weekends comp the rear dig helped atleast 4 times

it works really slick if your on a sidehill and need to reposition the rear end to point the truck more uphill , also backing up with rear dig is another benefit it's like front dig in reverse .

i still have to practice a bunch with it but im glad i have it
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:10 AM   #20
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I love the fast and instant nature of it.

There were times sidehilling that I was able to click in and out of dig multiple times to make subtle changes and maintain course.
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