RCCrawler Forums

donny · 07-28-2010, 01:22 PM

hey ladake

so far no, but are you running the plastic shafts or the junfac steels one?

if the you are running the steel one you should be ok im having problems with the eletronics at the moment ( i cant get my rx to bind and im trying to make all the wires neat and tidy before i put the thing together. i did a moke up fit and it looks ok but to be sure ill tell you on the weekend should be able to finish the r1 by then.

if you have the plastic ones, you have to cut it
check out the link. hope it helps sorry if i didnt
http://www.junfac.com/shop/images/op...nstruction.jpg

but by this weekend i can show you the r1 finished and 1 can 100% tell you if the shatfs fits

Donny

donny · 07-28-2010, 01:39 PM

Hi Knife

you pretty much got it all!, what kind of radio are you running is it that 6-7 channel one on your thread? its just then on my dx3r i have 3 chs and i have the dig, lights steering, bec and a resistor for the rx so i got wires and y harness everywhere

and in the tide space of the r1 there is a lot of plainning.

and the braces i think its a wank factor...... but i have a set

. from my limited knowleadge im guessing if its a rock racer it might help a bit but for a crawler it will look cool and thats about it but if im wrong pls correct me guys im still a newbie

strawb · 07-29-2010, 02:27 AM

hey donny ...... please do update me on how the fit of the carbon steel drive shafts are with your dig unit installed ok ...... i still feel it might be a bit long when the dig unit is there .... especially when locked in dig mode ....

thanks

donny · 07-29-2010, 10:54 AM

No Worries! will do Strawb will do. this morning i got all the eletronics working but have not programed the esc. i have started on the lights and almost have that all mounted. i should have all the wiring done and mounted after work today hope i dont run into more problems. i started up the 18.5 bl novak its seem a bit slow on the 2s (my 3s has not come in yet so using batts from other truck).

ill post some pics on saturday night and let you know if the dig + steel shafts fits

ladake · 07-29-2010, 05:53 PM

i have finisht my r1 (whitout electrics)
i got the steel shaft from junfac, the rear shaft is oke (made the upperlinks 12 mm longer) but the front shaft is to short
it slides about 5 mm in one another (sprung setup)
you also have this problem

and now i'm thinking about what esc and motor i'm going to fit in
i have a cr01 with novak the goat, think i'm gonna try that one out

donny · 08-02-2010, 11:23 AM

Bad news....

you can not run the dig + the steel shafts. unless you cut the down a bit. (but i guess it depends on what set up you have. i have the aluminium upper mount, bent arms and the alum mount for the axles)

more bad news i screwed up the one of the steel drive shafts!!! this is what happened, the dig + steel shafts dont fit on the r1 you can only engage 4wd or free wheel not the lock out. so wihat i did iwas cut down the drive shaft sleeve and arm that goes into it, i cut up to the last letter of word steel so the "L" on the drive shaft (would be about 5mm). for those who have a set of the steel one know the inside the sleeve is 'D' shaped so when you put the other part in itwould grab on the flat surface and turn. that "D" only goes 5MM deep....... so in the sleeve i have a big fat 'o' so bye bye steel shaft and now i have to use the pastlic one for the mean time until i order another set

I learnt the hard way. the correct way to do it is to leave the sleeve alone DONT CUT THE SLEEVE SHORTER!!! grab the arm that goes into the sleeve and cotinue the "D" all the way up the head and the end of the arm grinded about 5 mm to 10mm off or to fit (do it a bit by bit so you dont go to far)

donny · 08-02-2010, 11:36 AM

and to add to that my lights set up does not work correctly. I ran a y harness from the aux in my rx. one is for the servo for the dig and the other pulg i ran my lights with a toggle switch for no and off . whcih sounds fine but i have to have the lights on for the r1 to work so if the lights are off there is no power to the rx which means i have to have the lights on all the time so i rip my light set up out and i will run a seperate battery for the light. or is there a way for me to have the lights in with a on and off switch with out interupting the other eletronics??? pls help.

not having a good run with the r1

Steve Hipsley · 08-02-2010, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donny

and to add to that my lights set up does not work correctly. I ran a y harness from the aux in my rx. one is for the servo for the dig and the other pulg i ran my lights with a toggle switch for no and off . whcih sounds fine but i have to have the lights on for the r1 to work so if the lights are off there is no power to the rx which means i have to have the lights on all the time so i rip my light set up out and i will run a seperate battery for the light. or is there a way for me to have the lights in with a on and off switch with out interupting the other eletronics??? pls help.

not having a good run with the r1

Hi, I have a Spektrum DX3E which has a port for a bind plug on the reciever. After I bound the transmitter to the reciever, I used that open port to run my lights off of and it works great. I have an inline switch installed so I can cut them on or off whenever I want. Do you have a bind plug port on your reciever? Hope this info helps!!

donny · 08-02-2010, 12:09 PM

hey steve i run the bec in the batt/bind port but i might put the light in that and run the dig servo and the bec on the y harness in the aux hope that works but the problem is that i have 2 switches one for the top 3 lights and another for the bottom 2 lights, so i think i have to run one switch for both lights. thanks steve

Steve Hipsley · 08-02-2010, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by donny

hey steve i run the bec in the batt/bind port but i might put the light in that and run the dig servo and the bec on the y harness in the aux hope that works but the problem is that i have 2 switches one for the top 3 lights and another for the bottom 2 lights, so i think i have to run one switch for both lights. thanks steve

yep, I run one switch for the top three and bottom two. I have a y harness to connect both of my sets of lights

KNIFE · 08-02-2010, 01:11 PM

that suxs dude.........

hopefully ill have all my stuff soon from junfac and then i can get this damn nightmarelong of a build get finally done

donny · 08-02-2010, 01:38 PM

yeah its a bit of a downer when you screw up and its worse when money is involved

i have to get new shafts and i just have been looking at these ones, i guess the back i need them to be shorter so 75mm-90mm might work and the front 90mm-120mm but i need to go home and messure them.

http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...dd576edb1764a5

http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...dd576edb1764a5

and very tempted to get these as well not good the internet is a bad thing.. so much i want and so little money

http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...dd576edb1764a5

strawb · 08-03-2010, 12:47 AM

sorry to hear about the drive shafts donny ...... so are you going to order the shafts from rc4wd? ....... they look solid ...... its just the length and the diameter of the outputs which worry me ......

anyways ...... i'll keep an eye on your thread for more updates .....

you may wanna check these output driveshafts from ckrc as well

http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/ckrc-hea...r1-p-2727.html

thanks

donny · 08-03-2010, 12:01 PM

Hey strawb thanks for the site! They look good those shafts should be no hassle and looks like standard size which is good, so much dicking around with the crawler its not funny..

with the rc4wd shafts there should be no problems with the front ones, but the rear im a bit worried. i dont know the dia, i need to email those guys and find out and if I run those shafts + dig its going be a tight fit it might touch the chassis. the 75-90mm might be about 10mm too short but depends on what shocks you run i guess... ahh i have taken the r1 apart about 3 times now its really sh*tting me off

and shock wise i wouldnt mind a bit more travel and articulation so im looking at the 110mm or 120mm but thats is where i run into problems with the shafts being to short. 110mm it will be ok even on full travel but 120mm i need to do more reseach.

and sorry for no pic on my update its just a bit messy on my end with this thing. but the good news is ill have the r1 ready of a run on sunday but with no lights and maybe a semi working dig.the light i might run 2 small batt packs thinking 2 x 9v so i can turn on/off the top and bottom led separately. i going to pick up my 3s lipos at the post office in the morning ill see how the thing goes it should be good! before i was using a 2s from my other truck.

with the dig i cant get free wheeling and lock rear to stay in position i have to hold down the button, if i let go it goes back to 4wd. hopefully i can sort that out by saturday

the reason im doing a bit of a dodgy and run it the way it is, is that i will be going on holidays and my friends want to go crawling before i go whcih is cool because ill be away for 5 weeks. so this will give me a chance to see the thing go

so tempted to bring the r1 with me and and order the parts i need and get it sent to the place in going to.... how sad is my life

but thanks strawb for the link and i will keep you guys updated

donny · 08-07-2010, 03:07 PM

Hey All

Finished the r1 minus lights.

i was going to take this out today but something came up so no testing today

but very happy its all finished.i put the 3s in and wow what a differance its just perfect now nice wheel speed and torque. the dig is all figured out got the 3 position perfect and now im working on a new set if shocks and drive shafts

with my set up the steel junfac one is just long enough so ok for now, but with longer shocks would be a differnet story. so im still looking around for front shafts but rears, this will be perfect withthe dig, no modding i wish i did my research a little better earier
http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php...10dca895b44e0d

but shocks still going to get the rc4wd 120mm ones i ill order these when i come back + the shatfs (yes!!!! 5 week holiday!!!!!!!!!!!

)

one more thing about this r1 its pretty hard to work on this with the VERY tight spaces you need hands of a 5 year old!!! it took me sooo long to put the body panels on it was a nightmare

ill show you updates of my r1 when im back!

07-28-2010, 01:22 PM	#21
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	hey ladake so far no, but are you running the plastic shafts or the junfac steels one? if the you are running the steel one you should be ok im having problems with the eletronics at the moment ( i cant get my rx to bind and im trying to make all the wires neat and tidy before i put the thing together. i did a moke up fit and it looks ok but to be sure ill tell you on the weekend should be able to finish the r1 by then. if you have the plastic ones, you have to cut it check out the link. hope it helps sorry if i didnt http://www.junfac.com/shop/images/op...nstruction.jpg but by this weekend i can show you the r1 finished and 1 can 100% tell you if the shatfs fits Donny Last edited by donny; 07-28-2010 at 02:28 PM.

07-28-2010, 01:39 PM	#22
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	Hi Knife you pretty much got it all!, what kind of radio are you running is it that 6-7 channel one on your thread? its just then on my dx3r i have 3 chs and i have the dig, lights steering, bec and a resistor for the rx so i got wires and y harness everywhere and in the tide space of the r1 there is a lot of plainning. and the braces i think its a wank factor...... but i have a set. from my limited knowleadge im guessing if its a rock racer it might help a bit but for a crawler it will look cool and thats about it but if im wrong pls correct me guys im still a newbie

08-02-2010, 11:23 AM	#26
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	killed my drive shafts Bad news.... you can not run the dig + the steel shafts. unless you cut the down a bit. (but i guess it depends on what set up you have. i have the aluminium upper mount, bent arms and the alum mount for the axles) more bad news i screwed up the one of the steel drive shafts!!! this is what happened, the dig + steel shafts dont fit on the r1 you can only engage 4wd or free wheel not the lock out. so wihat i did iwas cut down the drive shaft sleeve and arm that goes into it, i cut up to the last letter of word steel so the "L" on the drive shaft (would be about 5mm). for those who have a set of the steel one know the inside the sleeve is 'D' shaped so when you put the other part in itwould grab on the flat surface and turn. that "D" only goes 5MM deep....... so in the sleeve i have a big fat 'o' so bye bye steel shaft and now i have to use the pastlic one for the mean time until i order another set I learnt the hard way. the correct way to do it is to leave the sleeve alone DONT CUT THE SLEEVE SHORTER!!! grab the arm that goes into the sleeve and cotinue the "D" all the way up the head and the end of the arm grinded about 5 mm to 10mm off or to fit (do it a bit by bit so you dont go to far) Last edited by donny; 08-02-2010 at 01:10 PM.

08-02-2010, 01:38 PM	#32
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	yeah its a bit of a downer when you screw up and its worse when money is involved i have to get new shafts and i just have been looking at these ones, i guess the back i need them to be shorter so 75mm-90mm might work and the front 90mm-120mm but i need to go home and messure them. http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...dd576edb1764a5 http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...dd576edb1764a5 and very tempted to get these as well not good the internet is a bad thing.. so much i want and so little money http://rc4wdstore.com/2/product_info...dd576edb1764a5 Last edited by donny; 08-02-2010 at 01:41 PM.

08-03-2010, 12:47 AM	#33
strawb Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: UAE in the GCC Posts: 480	sorry to hear about the drive shafts donny ...... so are you going to order the shafts from rc4wd? ....... they look solid ...... its just the length and the diameter of the outputs which worry me ...... anyways ...... i'll keep an eye on your thread for more updates ..... you may wanna check these output driveshafts from ckrc as well http://www.ckrccrawlers.com/ckrc-hea...r1-p-2727.html thanks Last edited by strawb; 08-03-2010 at 01:16 AM.

07-29-2010, 02:27 AM	#23
strawb Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: UAE in the GCC Posts: 480	hey donny ...... please do update me on how the fit of the carbon steel drive shafts are with your dig unit installed ok ...... i still feel it might be a bit long when the dig unit is there .... especially when locked in dig mode .... thanks

07-29-2010, 10:54 AM	#24
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	No Worries! will do Strawb will do. this morning i got all the eletronics working but have not programed the esc. i have started on the lights and almost have that all mounted. i should have all the wiring done and mounted after work today hope i dont run into more problems. i started up the 18.5 bl novak its seem a bit slow on the 2s (my 3s has not come in yet so using batts from other truck). ill post some pics on saturday night and let you know if the dig + steel shafts fits

07-29-2010, 05:53 PM	#25
ladake Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: belgium Posts: 2	i have finisht my r1 (whitout electrics) i got the steel shaft from junfac, the rear shaft is oke (made the upperlinks 12 mm longer) but the front shaft is to short it slides about 5 mm in one another (sprung setup) you also have this problem and now i'm thinking about what esc and motor i'm going to fit in i have a cr01 with novak the goat, think i'm gonna try that one out

08-02-2010, 11:36 AM	#27
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	and to add to that my lights set up does not work correctly. I ran a y harness from the aux in my rx. one is for the servo for the dig and the other pulg i ran my lights with a toggle switch for no and off . whcih sounds fine but i have to have the lights on for the r1 to work so if the lights are off there is no power to the rx which means i have to have the lights on all the time so i rip my light set up out and i will run a seperate battery for the light. or is there a way for me to have the lights in with a on and off switch with out interupting the other eletronics??? pls help. not having a good run with the r1

08-02-2010, 12:09 PM	#29
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	hey steve i run the bec in the batt/bind port but i might put the light in that and run the dig servo and the bec on the y harness in the aux hope that works but the problem is that i have 2 switches one for the top 3 lights and another for the bottom 2 lights, so i think i have to run one switch for both lights. thanks steve

08-02-2010, 01:11 PM	#31
KNIFE Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: BEHIND THE WHEEL////MOAB Posts: 281	that suxs dude......... hopefully ill have all my stuff soon from junfac and then i can get this damn nightmarelong of a build get finally done

08-03-2010, 12:01 PM	#34
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	Hey strawb thanks for the site! They look good those shafts should be no hassle and looks like standard size which is good, so much dicking around with the crawler its not funny.. with the rc4wd shafts there should be no problems with the front ones, but the rear im a bit worried. i dont know the dia, i need to email those guys and find out and if I run those shafts + dig its going be a tight fit it might touch the chassis. the 75-90mm might be about 10mm too short but depends on what shocks you run i guess... ahh i have taken the r1 apart about 3 times now its really shtting me off and shock wise i wouldnt mind a bit more travel and articulation so im looking at the 110mm or 120mm but thats is where i run into problems with the shafts being to short. 110mm it will be ok even on full travel but 120mm i need to do more reseach. and sorry for no pic on my update its just a bit messy on my end with this thing. but the good news is ill have the r1 ready of a run on sunday but with no lights and maybe a semi working dig.the light i might run 2 small batt packs thinking 2 x 9v so i can turn on/off the top and bottom led separately. i going to pick up my 3s lipos at the post office in the morning ill see how the thing goes it should be good! before i was using a 2s from my other truck. with the dig i cant get free wheeling and lock rear to stay in position i have to hold down the button, if i let go it goes back to 4wd. hopefully i can sort that out by saturday the reason im doing a bit of a dodgy and run it the way it is, is that i will be going on holidays and my friends want to go crawling before i go whcih is cool because ill be away for 5 weeks. so this will give me a chance to see the thing go so tempted to bring the r1 with me and and order the parts i need and get it sent to the place in going to.... how sad is my life but thanks strawb for the link and i will keep you guys updated Last edited by donny; 08-03-2010 at 12:07 PM.*

08-07-2010, 03:07 PM	#35
donny Newbie Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: sydney, Australia Posts: 46	Hey All Finished the r1 minus lights. i was going to take this out today but something came up so no testing today but very happy its all finished.i put the 3s in and wow what a differance its just perfect now nice wheel speed and torque. the dig is all figured out got the 3 position perfect and now im working on a new set if shocks and drive shafts with my set up the steel junfac one is just long enough so ok for now, but with longer shocks would be a differnet story. so im still looking around for front shafts but rears, this will be perfect withthe dig, no modding i wish i did my research a little better earier http://www.junfac.com/shop/index.php...10dca895b44e0d but shocks still going to get the rc4wd 120mm ones i ill order these when i come back + the shatfs (yes!!!! 5 week holiday!!!!!!!!!!!) one more thing about this r1 its pretty hard to work on this with the VERY tight spaces you need hands of a 5 year old!!! it took me sooo long to put the body panels on it was a nightmare ill show you updates of my r1 when im back!

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