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Old 06-24-2005, 11:22 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonbuggy
so the first 2 numbers are outer diameter in what mm? and second number is wall thickness, also in mm? that doesn't make sense. I realize that all use a 8-32 thread but I just want to know so I can make some kind of a choice, and like Twisted said, I don't want to have to explain to the people working there. Had to do that with trying to find a 23mm socket at home depot, "Why do you need a 23mm? Oh this is for a rc car? how fast does it go, really walking pace, what the hell good is that?"
They are measured in 1/100 and 1/1000 of an inch. For example a 2117 arrow is .21 diameter with a .017 wall thickness. If I remember correctly.
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Old 06-24-2005, 12:33 PM   #22
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okay cool
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Old 06-27-2005, 05:45 AM   #23
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when i built mine i used 1.5 in. allen head bolts (8/32) had to drill out the ends of the inserts, so i could add a nut to keep the ends tight. the allen heads fit in the shaft. used traxxas ends, never stripped one but i have bent a couple.
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Old 06-27-2005, 08:13 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonInAugusta
Get cut-offs from huting shop...they're free!
Stupid Question- what the heck is a "cut-off"? I understand the insert part...
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Old 06-27-2005, 06:52 PM   #25
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cut off is a screwed up arrow that has been cut on i believe :?
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:07 PM   #26
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screwed up in what way? like too short? or scratched? bent?
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Old 06-27-2005, 07:45 PM   #27
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Cut offs are kind of like carpet remnants in that once the arrows are sized for a customer they may need to be shortened. The cut offs are what's left over.

Oh, I found my invoice for my parts. Check out www.bowman.com Not the most exciting site but the prices are pretty good.

sorry the link is phucked

Last edited by IBCRUSN; 06-30-2005 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 06-28-2005, 12:55 PM   #28
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Guys that use an overdraw fire shorter arrows than bows without an overdraw. Arrows come in a standard length and need to be cut to size for the bow.

The part that is cut off is, oddly enough, called the cut-off. ;)
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Old 08-28-2005, 05:08 PM   #29
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well i was at Walmart today and looked at arrows and inserts. Do they make any arrows that don't have the feathers on the ends? All the ones i seen had them. plus they had metal ones and CF ones.but anyway, i was just wondering that cause i don't want to spend $3 on an arrow and not be able to use the end of it cause those feather things on there( unless you can cut them off- i didn't look that hard)
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:57 PM   #30
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I use the CF arrows from WM. The feathers are just glued on. A quick swipe with a razor and you cant tell the difference.
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Old 08-28-2005, 11:18 PM   #31
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The fins are glued on and can be easily skinned off with a knife. I buy my arrows and hardware on ebay. Really cheap.
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Old 08-28-2005, 11:31 PM   #32
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ahh ok, thanks for the info guys
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Old 08-31-2005, 03:13 AM   #33
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Ok, so in simple terms. The arrow is the "tube", the insert is like a slightly smaller tube that has threads so you can turn in your 8-32 rod and ball end. Right?
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Old 08-31-2005, 10:46 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambuller84
Ok, so in simple terms. The arrow is the "tube", the insert is like a slightly smaller tube that has threads so you can turn in your 8-32 rod and ball end. Right?
Kindly,I guess. The inserts are plastic or aluminum pieces,not another piece of tube,that are glued into the end of the arrow. Thread your rod end to the 8-32 all thread or bolt and then screw the all thread or bolt to the insert thats glued into the arrow shaft.
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Old 08-31-2005, 07:45 PM   #35
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Just had a brain fart, since these arrow links are not bullet proof I thought it might be a good idea to be able to reuse the inserts. As you are always improving on your crawler things change, wheel base, chassi, etc. The inserts are hollow but only threaded in the middle not threaded all the way through, working on the same principle as drywall anchors, I split the bottom end of the insert with a dremell cut off disc. Since the inserts are not threaded all the way through the screw bottoms out, I split the insert just at the point where the screw bottoms out. Now I place the insert into the arrow shaft and hold it with a vice so it wont turn and screw down the 8/32 screw forcing the split ends outward and thus keeping the insert from pulling out. You can still pull out the insert by hand but it does take a lot of force. I guess care should be taken on how far you insert the screw or else you could possibly crack the arrow shaft.

Be interesting to see if this holds up or not in the long run. What do you think.
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Old 08-31-2005, 07:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambuller84
Ok, so in simple terms. The arrow is the "tube", the insert is like a slightly smaller tube that has threads so you can turn in your 8-32 rod and ball end. Right?
Pretty much. Replace the tip with 8-32 threaded rod, put a ball end on that threaded rod and...walla! Suspension links.

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Old 08-31-2005, 08:11 PM   #37
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Had that picture been posted 6 months ago, I don't think we'd have any threads on arrow links.

Good job JIA!
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