Arrow links?

[rckjeep]

Can someone do a quick tech article on how to make them with links to buying parts and some good pics?

[TwistedCreations]

yes please... i got lost on having to have the inserts... I'm not a bow hunter, so have no clue on arrows

[badhoopty]

hell yea, i would like to see a tech how to on them as well...

[RCMFMaxxMan]

Same here! I kind of understand but not too sure. The way I understand it it sounds like they wouldn't be very strong because the inserts could fall out and the sidewall of the arrow is pretty thin. Also are they able to be bent (the aluminum ones) to make high clearance links?

[Etype R]

I made a set for a friends clod and I picked up some smaller arrow shafts for my own links. If you go to a sporting goods store that carrys them, you will find there are several sizes of arrow shafts. Once you find the shaft size you want, then find the size number on the shaft or the package. And then go to the isle with inserts, you should be able to find a packet of inserts with a matching size number. Some inserts are a snug fit and do not need to be glued. Thats how the links worked out for my friends clod, they were all a press fit. Although the links I picked up need to be glued in. I just have not picked up the epoxy for bonding the inserts in place yet.

The inserts are all 8-32 tap. And the aluminum is very very stiff. It will snap before it will bend. And you can use a miniture tubing cutter to cut the shafts to size. And you can touch up the ends with a file if you do not like the rough edges.

[JasonInAugusta]

Originally Posted by rckjeep

Can someone do a quick tech article on how to make them with links to buying parts and some good pics?

I had that article in the January '04 issue of RC Driver. ;)

Cliff notes:

Get cut-offs from huting shop...they're free!

Get inserts to fit your free cut-offs

gets some 8-32 all thread

Your choice of 1/8 scale ball ends (have to be made for a 4mm link...I use Kyosho's 6.8mm ball ends with Kyosho's "franged" balls)

Determine the eye-to-eye length your link needs to be

Measure the distance from the center of the ball in your ball end to the butt of the ball end. (If I remember right the measurement on the Kyosho ball ends is 20mm)

Add the thickness of your insert's flange. (usually 1mm)

That gives you 21mm total.

Mulitply by 2....that's 42.

Subtract that 42 (or whatever you number comes out to be) from your pre-determined eye-to-eye length.

Cut your arrow shaft to that length.

Cut the all thread into short lengths. I think I used 30mm pieces.

Use adhesive to glue inserts into the shaft. I use BSI's IC2000

I use a drill to thread the sections of 8-32 all thread into the ball ends then thread the other end of the all thread into the insert that's now glued into the shaft.


Done.

[RCMFMaxxMan]

Thats what i thought. Thanks. But is it safe (durability wise) to bend them for high clearance links? (assuming I use aluminum shafts)

[JasonInAugusta]

I use carbon shafts.

They don't bend. ;)

As for bending aluminum shafts...I wouldn't do it.

[rckjeep]

awesome, thats what I was looking for. Good Job Jason.

[Texrok]

Originally Posted by RCMFMaxxMan

Same here! I kind of understand but not too sure. The way I understand it it sounds like they wouldn't be very strong because the inserts could fall out and the sidewall of the arrow is pretty thin. Also are they able to be bent (the aluminum ones) to make high clearance links?

I use the arrow shaft links and I do bowhunt. Most all decent arrows are made from 7075 aluminum whch is very strong and ridged. That is why they have the ability to smash through the shoulder bone of a 900 lbs. bull elk. They a thin walled but I have driven the crap outta my rig and not even come close to bending one. They make VERY light weight links. The inserts can be bought at just about any sporting good shop that sells hunting stuff. The most important thing is to get an insert which is the designated diameter for the size/diameter of the arrow shaft you are using. The size is usually on the side of the arrow. And designated for example: 2117, 2216, etc, etc. The inserts should be glue in. JB weld works pretty good for this. Try roughing up the surface of the insert and the inside of the arrow with some sandpaper before gluing then in. One draw back is they don't bend very well for high clearance links. It can be done but the bends need to be gradual to keep from cracking. This is the only drawback I have seen though.

[RCMFMaxxMan]

thanks for the info! I never even considered that they were 7075 aluminum versus being 6061. I have a fairly large diameter pipe bender (like 1.5 or 2 inches) so that may be able to bend them safely. I'm afraid it would create a week point though. Well I'll never know unless i try! thanks again!

[fuzzhead]

i might try to check at scheels tomorrow for some cut apart ones for free. lol. how exactly should i ask (some of the guys...most of the guys that work there are d***s)

[IBCRUSN]

The arrows work great. Strong, light (you could fill the lowers with lead if you were so inclined) and readily available at fair prices. Go the internet route it's far cheaper. Buy whole shafts w/o feathers, it'll make it easier on you and the morons at most chain sports stores.

I do find it somewhat interesting that when I first fabbed up a set I was given rash of sh*t about how they are weaker than the 2024 (soft) rod most guys were using. Now whether it's carbon or Al (7075) it's the way to go. Funny how things work out....

Besides the ease of fabricating arrow links one has to consider what the true loads are placed on the links. If I'm not mistaken a 3 link, 4 link etc. suspension system simply locates the axle(s) and has minimal bending loads. If you build the truck/car suspension system correctly the majority of the loads on the links are in tension and compression. Yes, there are some bending loads but RC vehicles don't have the torque and axle wrap that 1:1 vehicles encounter.

Well, that's enough. Build a set and tear it up.

Cheers,

[moonbuggy]

I have been searching and trying to get info on the arrows so I could use them in my project. Thanks for the info so far but could someone who hunts please explain the sizes I just ran a search and most arrows are available in many sized that make no sense

Originally Posted by arrow ordering thing

Sizes: 1816, 1913, 1916, 2013, 2016, 2018, 2113, 2114, 2115, 2117, 2213, 2215, 2216, 2219, 2314, 2315, 2317, 2413, 2419, 2514

[TwistedCreations]

Yeah Texrock mentioned various sizes, but how does one determine the size for a 8/32" rod or whatever? I wanna try to get in and out of the store before I have to explain WTF i'm trying to do to some dumbass that works there

[fordnut]

awsome info on the arrows i have been dying to do this but also wasnt sure how its pretty clear now though so im doing it. thanks

[Etype R]

No matter the size they are all 8-32 threaded inserts. I think the size works with the first two numbers refering to the outter diameter. And the second two digits for the wall thickness. 1816 matches up perfect with revo rod ends. While some of the larger ones are a great match for the kyosho ends. Just go to a local sporting goods store that sells bow hunting gear and look at what they have.

[Texrok]

Originally Posted by TwistedCreations

Yeah Texrock mentioned various sizes, but how does one determine the size for a 8/32" rod or whatever? I wanna try to get in and out of the store before I have to explain WTF i'm trying to do to some dumbass that works there

Etype R nailed it on the head. All arrow insert are standard 8-32 thread because of the broadhead or field point the is intended to be screwed in to them. Get the aluminum inserts. They work better than the nylon, I think. Get some 8-32 all thread and a heavy duty rod end (I use MGT rod ends) that will handle that size of thread. The traxxas rod ends are cheap, but don't provide enough meat to thread the rod into and end up stripping out. The MGT rod ends have plenty of beef, and are fairly cheap (8 for $11). Hope this helps shed some light on things.

[moonbuggy]

so the first 2 numbers are outer diameter in what mm? and second number is wall thickness, also in mm? that doesn't make sense. I realize that all use a 8-32 thread but I just want to know so I can make some kind of a choice, and like Twisted said, I don't want to have to explain to the people working there. Had to do that with trying to find a 23mm socket at home depot, "Why do you need a 23mm? Oh this is for a rc car? how fast does it go, really walking pace, what the hell good is that?"

[Reflection]

The question I have floating around my head is,could a guy tap out the inserts from 8-32 to 10-24? My rod ends won't work with whimpy 8-32