RCCrawler Forums

slagburn · 10-16-2005, 11:05 PM

Has anybody put lithium polymer batteries in one of these tanks yet? I found a Thunder Power 11.1V 2100Ah battery that would save 3.1 pounds. The catch is, max discharge is rated at 31.5A continuous and 50A peak.

Does anybody have a clamp meter to see how many amps the 1:6 Nylints pull under a load?

I think a little foam would be more than enough to keep the battery happy. I use lipo's in an electric plane and the small batteries have survived many a crash.

slagburn · 10-18-2005, 07:29 PM

65 views- and no one has a clamp meter to check the amp draw? If I can get ahold of that number, I'll find something to work and report back.

Papewayo · 11-22-2005, 08:25 PM

Being that the stock battery is rated at only 4.5 AH, if the amp draw was 4.5 Amps then it would discharge within 1 hour of continuous use. Since many people are posting that they have ridiculously long run times it's safe to conclude that the draw is less than 4.5 A. Safe for the Lipo's rating of 35 Amps continuous.

...Papewayo

Papewayo · 11-22-2005, 09:49 PM

After further reading I've read that on average the run times for continuous use are 2 - 2.5 hours. Some have gone as long as three hours but I'm guessing that's a lot of stop and go.

At a two hour run time the amperage draw would be approx 2.25 amps or 2250 milliamps. At a 2.5 hour run time the amp draw drops to 1.8 amps or 1800 ma.

Being that these vehicles are geared so low, there is not much stress put on the motors and consequently very little amp draw is experienced. It's almost as if the motors were running with no load on them. It would be pretty difficult to fry one.

That's some amazing engineering.

...Papewayo

run2jeepn · 11-23-2005, 05:24 AM

I found a Jeep 1/8 scale with a 12V battery and a pretty sweet body on E-bay. They want 39.99 for it, but the battery, battery charger, and the body might be worth that to some one. It looks like the battery is a lot smaller and lighter then the Nylint.

Just an idea. I know this RC is crap, but that battery wouldn't take up any room. You cound just order the battery also. Link below..

http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-R-C-RADIO-CON...QQcmdZViewItem

TEAMFX3 · 11-23-2005, 03:45 PM

I think the stock battery is fine. The run times are awesome, and the extra weight is more of an advantage than disadvantage because it makes the suspension work properly and tires bite. I think some of you are overthinking this RC's purpose, most of you already have professional grade crawlers anyway right? I'm all for tweaking, but maybe you should keep some sort of perspective...

Got Rocks? · 11-23-2005, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TEAMFX3

I think the stock battery is fine. The run times are awesome, and the extra weight is more of an advantage than disadvantage because it makes the suspension work properly and tires bite. I think some of you are overthinking this RC's purpose, most of you already have professional grade crawlers anyway right? I'm all for tweaking, but maybe you should keep some sort of perspective...

well unless you decide to do a tummy tuck i wouldnt mess with the battery either but a smaller battery would be awsome on a tummy tucked rig

run2jeepn · 11-23-2005, 03:59 PM

I plan on doing a Nylint with a tummy tuck with a smaller lighter battery and a Lexan Jeep body. And adding BB's to the tires to help with COG. This should help with the life of these things. Thats my goal anyway.

chafey · 11-23-2005, 04:23 PM

has anyone tried putting 2 standard packs in series? alot faster to charge and cheap and light

run2jeepn · 11-23-2005, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chafey

has anyone tried putting 2 standard packs in series? alot faster to charge and cheap and light

How do you run them in series? Do you mean run 2 6V's to make a 12V. If that is what your talking about. I have thought of that. Just didn't know how well it would work.

floogldood · 11-25-2005, 08:14 AM

I would think that one could get away with 2/3 A cells on this truck, I plan to replace heavy battery and body first on mine.

badger · 11-28-2005, 10:56 AM

12V battery Help !

floogldood · 11-28-2005, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by run2jeepn

How do you run them in series? Do you mean run 2 6V's to make a 12V. If that is what your talking about. I have thought of that. Just didn't know how well it would work.

To put batts in series they should be configured -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ and so on until all cells are together.

2 std (6 cell) packs will be around 18 volts (just right

)

floogldood · 11-28-2005, 11:51 AM

Can someone list the max amp draw in lo and high or maybe just an average?

thanks, possibly a total mah divided by runtime will give me an average too.

badger · 11-28-2005, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by floogldood

2 std (6 cell) packs will be around 18 volts (just right

)

Wrong, 2 standard 6 cell stick packs would be 12 cells @ 1.2v (each cell) = 14.4v total.

floogldood · 11-28-2005, 05:47 PM

Nominal voltage of nickle cells is 1.2 that is for discharged ones and charged ones go over 1.4,

I used 1.5 . that was a mistake. It depends on when you measure, as slow as this truck goes I think they'll always be over 1.2. I am thinking ove getting away with AA's in low gear? what you think? How much ruintime do you get w/ the sub C?

slagburn · 12-02-2005, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TEAMFX3

I think the stock battery is fine. The run times are awesome, and the extra weight is more of an advantage than disadvantage because it makes the suspension work properly and tires bite. I think some of you are overthinking this RC's purpose, most of you already have professional grade crawlers anyway right? I'm all for tweaking, but maybe you should keep some sort of perspective...

I disagree. That's basically what a lot of people were saying on Pirate about, oh, 6 years ago. It's been pretty well established by now that a lighter rig climbs better. Physics is physics.. if it's true for the full size stuff, it's true to scale as well.

mentalfloss · 12-03-2005, 03:53 PM

slagburn i would not completly agree with that, were i do agree all things being equal yes a lighter rig would be better, but not nessacarly climb better, theres alot of things like contact pressure, spring rates, cog that all come in to play, Im new at the rc crawling but have been doing 1:1 for years, i do remmber this debate a few years back on the pirate board. but a garantee you that properly placed weight will make your rig a better climber. Next time your out playing with your rc and you climbing something and get to a spot were all tire are spinning but it just wont climb, go over and place your hand on the front and just put a little down pressure on it and watch it climb right up it. Or a place were it wants to pick up the front wheels a little put a little weight on the front bumper and it will keep the front tires down. I used to have this problem on my 1:1 when I streched my wheel base out to 106 in and when i would climb things that had a ledge at the top my front tires would crest over and wouldnt be able to pull the rest up, my problem was that with my front axle moved out my front springs would unload and didnt have enough pressure{weight over the tires} on the front to pull up, I moved my axle back 2 in{which put the weight back over the top of the tires} and the thing climbed like a mountain goat. point being that weight can deffintetly be an advantage if its in the right place.

JasonInAugusta · 12-03-2005, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mentalfloss

slagburn i would not completly agree with that, were i do agree all things being equal yes a lighter rig would be better, but not nessacarly climb better, theres alot of things like contact pressure, spring rates, cog that all come in to play, Im new at the rc crawling but have been doing 1:1 for years, i do remmber this debate a few years back on the pirate board. but a garantee you that properly placed weight will make your rig a better climber. Next time your out playing with your rc and you climbing something and get to a spot were all tire are spinning but it just wont climb, go over and place your hand on the front and just put a little down pressure on it and watch it climb right up it. Or a place were it wants to pick up the front wheels a little put a little weight on the front bumper and it will keep the front tires down. I used to have this problem on my 1:1 when I streched my wheel base out to 106 in and when i would climb things that had a ledge at the top my front tires would crest over and wouldnt be able to pull the rest up, my problem was that with my front axle moved out my front springs would unload and didnt have enough pressure{weight over the tires} on the front to pull up, I moved my axle back 2 in{which put the weight back over the top of the tires} and the thing climbed like a mountain goat. point being that weight can deffintetly be an advantage if its in the right place.

Give that guy a beer!

I totally agree.

I think the term "lighter" is taken different ways by different people. Lighter overall isn't good with RC crawlers, you need some weight. Where you put it makes a HUGE difference.

run2jeepn · 12-03-2005, 08:11 PM

The reason almost all comp. rigs and even some trail rigs are going lighter is the fact of trying to getting drivetrain to last longer. A Tuber with dana 60's with custom outers and 40 spline shafts will last longer then a rig with a full frame and body. It also keeps COG down lower. There are even some comp rigs running water in their tires.

10-16-2005, 11:05 PM	#1
slagburn Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: North side Posts: 58	Lightweight battery Has anybody put lithium polymer batteries in one of these tanks yet? I found a Thunder Power 11.1V 2100Ah battery that would save 3.1 pounds. The catch is, max discharge is rated at 31.5A continuous and 50A peak. Does anybody have a clamp meter to see how many amps the 1:6 Nylints pull under a load? I think a little foam would be more than enough to keep the battery happy. I use lipo's in an electric plane and the small batteries have survived many a crash.

11-25-2005, 08:14 AM	#11
floogldood Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 350	I would think that one could get away with 2/3 A cells on this truck, I plan to replace heavy battery and body first on mine. Last edited by floogldood; 11-26-2005 at 10:29 AM.

11-28-2005, 11:51 AM	#14
floogldood Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 350	amps? Can someone list the max amp draw in lo and high or maybe just an average? thanks, possibly a total mah divided by runtime will give me an average too.

10-18-2005, 07:29 PM	#2
slagburn Rock Stacker Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: North side Posts: 58	65 views- and no one has a clamp meter to check the amp draw? If I can get ahold of that number, I'll find something to work and report back.

11-22-2005, 08:25 PM	#3
Papewayo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando Posts: 167	Being that the stock battery is rated at only 4.5 AH, if the amp draw was 4.5 Amps then it would discharge within 1 hour of continuous use. Since many people are posting that they have ridiculously long run times it's safe to conclude that the draw is less than 4.5 A. Safe for the Lipo's rating of 35 Amps continuous. ...Papewayo

11-22-2005, 09:49 PM	#4
Papewayo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Orlando Posts: 167	After further reading I've read that on average the run times for continuous use are 2 - 2.5 hours. Some have gone as long as three hours but I'm guessing that's a lot of stop and go. At a two hour run time the amperage draw would be approx 2.25 amps or 2250 milliamps. At a 2.5 hour run time the amp draw drops to 1.8 amps or 1800 ma. Being that these vehicles are geared so low, there is not much stress put on the motors and consequently very little amp draw is experienced. It's almost as if the motors were running with no load on them. It would be pretty difficult to fry one. That's some amazing engineering. ...Papewayo

11-23-2005, 05:24 AM	#5
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	I found a Jeep 1/8 scale with a 12V battery and a pretty sweet body on E-bay. They want 39.99 for it, but the battery, battery charger, and the body might be worth that to some one. It looks like the battery is a lot smaller and lighter then the Nylint. Just an idea. I know this RC is crap, but that battery wouldn't take up any room. You cound just order the battery also. Link below.. http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-R-C-RADIO-CON...QQcmdZViewItem

11-23-2005, 03:45 PM	#6
TEAMFX3 Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 14	I think the stock battery is fine. The run times are awesome, and the extra weight is more of an advantage than disadvantage because it makes the suspension work properly and tires bite. I think some of you are overthinking this RC's purpose, most of you already have professional grade crawlers anyway right? I'm all for tweaking, but maybe you should keep some sort of perspective...

11-23-2005, 03:59 PM	#8
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	I plan on doing a Nylint with a tummy tuck with a smaller lighter battery and a Lexan Jeep body. And adding BB's to the tires to help with COG. This should help with the life of these things. Thats my goal anyway.

11-23-2005, 04:23 PM	#9
chafey Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: woods cross utah Posts: 523	has anyone tried putting 2 standard packs in series? alot faster to charge and cheap and light

11-28-2005, 10:56 AM	#12
badger Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal Posts: 11,402	12V battery Help !

11-28-2005, 05:47 PM	#16
floogldood Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 350	Nominal voltage of nickle cells is 1.2 that is for discharged ones and charged ones go over 1.4, I used 1.5 . that was a mistake. It depends on when you measure, as slow as this truck goes I think they'll always be over 1.2. I am thinking ove getting away with AA's in low gear? what you think? How much ruintime do you get w/ the sub C?

12-03-2005, 03:53 PM	#18
mentalfloss Newbie Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: reno Posts: 4	slagburn i would not completly agree with that, were i do agree all things being equal yes a lighter rig would be better, but not nessacarly climb better, theres alot of things like contact pressure, spring rates, cog that all come in to play, Im new at the rc crawling but have been doing 1:1 for years, i do remmber this debate a few years back on the pirate board. but a garantee you that properly placed weight will make your rig a better climber. Next time your out playing with your rc and you climbing something and get to a spot were all tire are spinning but it just wont climb, go over and place your hand on the front and just put a little down pressure on it and watch it climb right up it. Or a place were it wants to pick up the front wheels a little put a little weight on the front bumper and it will keep the front tires down. I used to have this problem on my 1:1 when I streched my wheel base out to 106 in and when i would climb things that had a ledge at the top my front tires would crest over and wouldnt be able to pull the rest up, my problem was that with my front axle moved out my front springs would unload and didnt have enough pressure{weight over the tires} on the front to pull up, I moved my axle back 2 in{which put the weight back over the top of the tires} and the thing climbed like a mountain goat. point being that weight can deffintetly be an advantage if its in the right place.

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12-03-2005, 08:11 PM	#20
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	The reason almost all comp. rigs and even some trail rigs are going lighter is the fact of trying to getting drivetrain to last longer. A Tuber with dana 60's with custom outers and 40 spline shafts will last longer then a rig with a full frame and body. It also keeps COG down lower. There are even some comp rigs running water in their tires.

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