did a few mods, lemme know what you think

[low an slow]

yes that is an xmod box there, infact i got that build going on to, theres still some more flex but not much, i can go 1/4 of an inch higher before it starts to pick up a wheel. i doubt your stocker flexes more as the shock only has 1/4 inch of travel left to it, and cutting the spring wont do anything. i did heat the spring and that made it a little softer. once i add a little more weight to the front i will be able to flex out the shocks.

[SlammedMini469]

maxxing out the shocks means nothing...

it could be maxxed with the shocks in one position, but move them and you could lose or gain flex.


also, is the rod threaded into the shock mounts or does it go all the way through them and pivot in them freely?

if its threaded into them, the only "flex" you get is the axle houseing, chassis, and links themselves flexing, the suspension wont actually flex.

[BeerMonkeY]

the shocks are killing you there, take out the springs. i dont run any rear shocks and the fronts are t-maxx with no oil or springs and the plungers removed cause even with no oil the nylint is to light, heres a pic that shows the front ok

[low an slow]

the rod is threaded into the axle houseing, the extra you see is just extra that wasnt cut off when i made my adjustments. i dont want to remove my shocks because of the fact that i lose quite a bit of ground clearence. the links pivot on the "axles" that are through the body. my limiting factor right now is my shocks, i need ones with longer travel. they are soft enough to allow the axle to flex but stiff enough to keep the chassis high. the only way to increase fles is longer shocks or taking the shocks off completly. ill get some pics in an hour of it flexed out, one with the shocks as is, one with the springs removed, and one with the shocks disconected. i under stand what your saying and am not trying to start anything as you seem to know what your talking about but just want to show the difference and use it as reference for anyone elses recomendations. i tried plenty of dif locations for the shocks and found this to be the most forgiving in that i get the best flex with out losing ground clearence and i dont get any binding in the shocks.

edit NM bout the pics, my rig flex worse without the shocks as there is nothing pressing down on the opposite side to keep the wheel down. also with the shocks off i have not limiting on how high or low the axle goes. set down flat i have about half an inch of clearence.

[SlammedMini469]

try drilling out the hole on the axle where the rod goes though it and putting a nut on each side of it.

might also want to put some jb weld in the threads where its inside the plastic if you do this and sand it smooth, the threads would probably eat the plastic.

i bet you would gain some flex.

[low an slow]

Originally Posted by SlammedMini469

try drilling out the hole on the axle where the rod goes though it and putting a nut on each side of it.

might also want to put some jb weld in the threads where its inside the plastic if you do this and sand it smooth, the threads would probably eat the plastic.

i bet you would gain some flex.

thats a good idea with the jb weld, i may have to do that. the rod has enough play to rotate but the link do most of it. climbing the rocks the flex is great, not to much but could use a liittle more like i said. i think the shocks will solve the problem because the shock on one side bottoms out while the other side is at max travel.

[twisted]

how long are your links, i like your wheelbase.

thanks.

[low an slow]

Originally Posted by twisted

how long are your links, i like your wheelbase.

thanks.

links are 4 3/4 inches from body mounting to the end of the stock shock mount.

[Randy Lee]

i put mine through mud, it would have kept boing if the bat. had not have went down. im tring to get the pics to upload .... but here is a good way to get a winch..
It works,i used old steel teck pieses and a servo out of an old raido shack truck,..
Take the blue window screw to roll bar holders and go to wall mart and by small bobbins,metal ones look more real than the whit plastic ones.. Take the servo apart
to fix it to were it will fully rotate, and find a small raido cont. car to rob the electrics
from. the blue Plastic piece & window screw glue the intp the bobbin wheel, and the screw will go into the end of the servo,super glue is a must here By the way picture wire works perfectly plus it is 15 foot long incase extra is needed ...

Yes there was sand in both my axels nothing a lil. cleaning and Casrtol High Millage 10w40 would not take care of..will send pic's soon.....