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01-03-2009, 10:26 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 422
| 5 link front end in full chassis scaler
Has someone built a scaler using a 5 link front with coilovers on a full chassis build. Just getting a few ideas on how to mount the panhard rod. Cheers |
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01-03-2009, 11:09 PM | #2 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: CoMo...Kickin it with Holmes Hobbies
Posts: 805
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maybe im missing something, but if your running a good 4 link you dont need the panhard bar. if you only run a 2 link setup then yes you need the panhard bar. when mounting the panhard just make sure the angle is the same as your steering link (if your running the servo on the chassis that is).
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01-03-2009, 11:19 PM | #3 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: FOUR 8 OH
Posts: 4,913
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01-03-2009, 11:27 PM | #4 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: BV
Posts: 1,170
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The panhard setup has been done before. Here's a WK with a 3 link/panhard setup Cliff the wheely king lives!! rhhmaxx, if you build a truck with a 4 link that's not triangulated, you'll still need a panhard to keep the axle centered. Comp rigs and most scalers can get away with a triangulated 4 link or 3 link, but it takes up too much room for most 1:1's. a 3 link or 4 link with a panhard bar really frees up a lot of space. Honestly, every single coil spring/solid axle front suspension I've ever seen on a production 1:1 (be it 4 link or radius arm) had a panhard bar. The few triangulated 4 links I can think of exist on the rear of rear drive cars and I remember hearing somewhere that at least one of them would benefit from a panhard bar. These little trucks seem to do OK with a 3 link panhard bar setup. If I was building a 1:1 I'd go 4 link, but it really doesn't seem necessary with the scalers. Just remember, if you run a triangulated 4 link and a panhard bar the suspension will bind badly (the rear drive cars I mentioned can get away with it because of rubber bushings with some give at all the link ends and limited travel. a scaler with rigid rod ends and lots of travel won't get away with it.) Pick one or the other. Also, if you use a frame mounted servo, try to make the drag link and panhard bar as close to the same length as possible, and also as close to the same angle as possible. That way the axle will travel through the same arc as the drag link, helping to limit the bump steer Last edited by chrisjlittle; 01-03-2009 at 11:34 PM. |
01-06-2009, 03:38 AM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 422
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I'm aware of how the 4 links are setup, but i'm building a replica of my FJ40 which i built the 5 link in the front end using a panhard rod. All i wanted to see was if someone had already done this in a scale build. Im using AX10 diffs and the 4 control arms are easy enough to work out, just the panhard rod mount on the diff im getting ideas how to build that so everything fits in with the steering servo arms as well. |
01-06-2009, 05:37 AM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: monson
Posts: 651
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steering servo on frame with panhard rod |
01-07-2009, 04:00 AM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Australia
Posts: 422
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Thanks for that. Im still deciding wether to chassis mount the steer servo or diff mount. Chassis mount would look more scale though.
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01-08-2009, 06:38 AM | #8 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Behind the torch!
Posts: 1,360
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Here's another example of a parallel 4-link w/panhard |
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