Clocking the front???

[Tgreer]

Ok, I'm building a 1.9 wraith bronco. I'm not too familiar with the scx10 setup, but I noticed my setup had a bad angle with the driveline. This may be normal, but I didn't like it, so I clocked it to my liking by longer uppers. Well, now obviusly my caster is screwed up. Can I not just grind the screw bump outs smooth on the axle tube and clock back my c hubs to my liking? I'm also going to install beef tubes for more support! No one has done this on any of the pics or reading I have done, so I wanted to ask, before I screw something up! Here is some pics to give you an idea of where I'm at.

[bob1961]

you got nice pumpkin angle for the pinion/drive shaft, but you will need to clock your C hubs on the axle housing so they angle toward the rear from straight up with the screws the hold the knuckles....

[Tgreer]

Not totally understanding what you said. I understand that my c hubs need to be clocked back, but I wanted to know if it's a good idea to do that or just deal with a bad driveline angle. I'm asking because everyone seems to be just running the bad driveline angle to keep the chubs perpendicular. I'm wanting to know if redrilling new chub holes will work with beef tubes for extra support, or if it will strip out and I just need to stick with the stock holes.

[Ohioskills]

traxxas shafts run great on steep drive lines im running them and its good plus there strong and cheap

[Tgreer]

I have MIP shafts, I'm not worried about the durability of the shaft, I want the clearance that it brings when you straighten it out. I'm concerned with being able to clock my c hub and make new holes! Will it work or will it just tear up the axle housing?

[Szczerba]

Who's running a bad driveline angle? Not me! lol

Looks like your front driveline could be lowered a bit. Too much driveline clocking now.

Buy some standard beef tubes and you can clock the chubs back pretty good.

But if you are not going to put in beef tubes, angle the axle back down (shorten upper links) and get some clockable chubs. You just need the steering knuckles to be parallel with the ground or tilted back some. nothing crazy.

[C*H*U*D]

Where are you planning on running your steering servo? When you clock the C's back you can run into issues if it's on the front axle.

I like to run hi-steer knuckles, and that much pinion angle messes with the tie-rod hitting the servo mount posts once the C's are clocked back.

Before you commit to that setup, get your beef tubes. That way you can set the correct caster, see if you have any interference and adjust your pinion angle accordingly. I suspect you will probably have to dial that angle back down a bit, but it depends on the rest of your setup.

[Szczerba]

Yep, it's a mix between a good driveline angle and good caster angle.

[johnnyh66]

Axial makes Clockable C's that will help with your angle some... but not completely as that's a severe angle.

Also, I'd move that Tie Rod above the knuckles with your Drag Link.

[Tgreer]

I plan on doing a cms servo, and I also have a set of beef tubes coming, so it looks like I need a set of clockable chubs and maybe shorten my upper links a touch so it's not quit so severe. I will be moving my tie rod and drag link around, it's just thrown together at the moment. I also plan on getting some kind of panhard truss mount. Thanks for the help guys.

I also think I will straighten out the front lower links, I don't think the bend is nessisary.

[Tgreer]

Hey just read that if I run a 4 link setup, then I don't need a panhard setup! Is this correct?

[trevinator]

Yup.

[KMW]

I think that is correct, but you will probably have some bump steer, depending on steering link length and angle.

[arny]

4links and CMS don't mix very well

[johnnyh66]

yeah, it depends on your geometry.
My first rig (scx10 chassis with scx10 axles) is 4 linked with no pan hard bar and it works great.
My second rig (scx10 chassis with ar60 axles) needed a pan hard bar badly.
You'd turn the wheels and the whole chassis would move side to side.