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Thread: Affordable self made lockouts.

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Old 12-06-2009, 12:51 AM   #41
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Just did this mod tonight.

Where I work, one of our customers owns a pluming supply store, and he gave me a 6" section of 1/2" and 3/4" PVC for free. The 1/2" ended up working (Just like the OP)

I first measured the length I needed to cut, and transferred to the PVC, and cut with a hand saw.

Next, I took a dremel with a small sanding drum and sanded the inside of one end to match the axle side (after cutting down the notches) The OP says the hole ends up being .705" this should be the same diameter as a dime, fyi.

Then I trimmed the knuckle, with angle cutters (wire cutters) and the sanding drum, but all the way to the smallest diameter, which fit perfectly in the unsanded side of the 1/2" PVC.

Then, I marked the holes for the axle side of the lockout and drilled them with a 1/8" bit.

Next, I lightly hand-sanded the outside and rounded the hub end of the lockout for a more finished look, and sprayed some flat black.

Once paint was dry, I used gorilla glue to secure the hub in the end of the lockout.

Basically, I did almost exactly the same as the OP, but I left one end un-drilled and un-sanded, and trimmed the hub a little more.
Also, other than the dremel, I didn't use any expensive hand tools, just basic tools that most people have already.

I'll post pics tomorrow after the Gorilla Glue dries.

Great Free Mod!

Last edited by monkeyracer; 12-06-2009 at 12:58 AM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:09 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylusptk View Post
Other method
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What size pipe did you use for this method? I'm interested in using this method as i don't want to destroy my knuckles just in case i ever decide to go back to rear steer...
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Old 12-09-2009, 11:22 PM   #43
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Am with him. I like this idea a lot better. Looks faster too. Pay you to tell me
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:02 AM   #44
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That looks like 1/2" PVC...
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:00 PM   #45
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Just did the Mod. MAN, Nice and Clean, Opens Up soooooooooooooo much room back there.

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Old 02-01-2010, 06:26 PM   #46
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I was able to use thin wall 1/2" PVC. The cut Knuckle piece fits very tight without having to drill out the pvc. Works really Great! THANX!!!


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Old 02-18-2010, 12:59 AM   #47
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look's good nice work
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:46 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylusptk View Post
Other method
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I made a pair of these today, painted them black and they worked out great. I went out and thrashed them for a while to see if they would loosen up and they held up ok and tracked straight. Thanks

Last edited by xsthomas; 03-01-2010 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:05 PM   #49
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I made a pair of these today, painted them black and they worked out great. I went out and thrashed them for a while to see if they would loosen up and they held up ok and tracked straight. Thanks
What did you end up making them out of? What size pipe? How wide did you cut them? Thanks, T.
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Old 06-11-2010, 11:47 AM   #50
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Since I like working with lathes, I think I'll try this

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Old 08-26-2010, 01:43 PM   #51
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Since I like working with lathes, I think I'll try this

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Looks great

Morten
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:17 PM   #52
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Here is something else to try. It's working very good for me so far. A solid axle made from 5mm stainless rod. Ends turned on a lathe and the pin holes drilled on a drill press.


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Old 08-27-2010, 08:19 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stolps View Post
Here is something else to try. It's working very good for me so far. A solid axle made from 5mm stainless rod. Ends turned on a lathe and the pin holes drilled on a drill press.


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Click the image to open in full size.

I hate when you have to click a link or a thumbnail to see something...

Anyway, That's a good idea, and can work well for axial and TLT and other type axles. Is the middle pin dead center to slot into the diff case?

So, the lathe is to turn down the 5mm rod at the ends to 4.0mm to get the threads cut on the end?

How do you keep the center pin from sliding around in the case?

I like it!
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:59 AM   #54
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Yeh, I'm still trying to figure out how to post pics better. The pin is dead center. It is a slip fit, using the pin from the spider gears it slides right into the plastic carrier not allowing it to move in any direction once the ring gear is screwed on.
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:28 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stolps View Post
Yeh, I'm still trying to figure out how to post pics better. The pin is dead center. It is a slip fit, using the pin from the spider gears it slides right into the plastic carrier not allowing it to move in any direction once the ring gear is screwed on.
and I guess the wheel pin and hex will keep it all centered too, duh...

for the pics, just go to the large view, right click on the picture, and select properties, then highlight and copy the link.
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:23 AM   #56
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Did that 2 year ago in 5mm and 6mm stainless steel


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6mm
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length difference when using LST cvd's
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Morten
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:41 AM   #57
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This is cool . Im gonna try it. Thanks
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:46 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xsthomas View Post
I made a pair of these today, painted them black and they worked out great. I went out and thrashed them for a while to see if they would loosen up and they held up ok and tracked straight. Thanks
out of what size pipe?
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Old 11-12-2010, 07:34 PM   #59
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found some pvc that fit well. click to make the picture bigger

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Old 02-10-2011, 07:38 AM   #60
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I know it has been a long time since this thread was active but do any of you machinists want to help a brother out with a straight axle and/or some lockouts?

I would normally make my own with no problem, but my lathe and drill press are back in the US, and plumbing stores are hard to come by where I am!
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