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Old 08-16-2007, 06:04 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by crazydave View Post
Sorry, don't mean to contradict you, but its not wrapped around metal. The WKs chassis is plastic. This is a little close to the motor for my taste, but it works and that's what matters. I'm a crawler newb, but I've been around RCs for many many years. ;)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zodpWt53YPk
Sorry, I didn`t know the chassis was made of plastic. I`ve only bought the axles by themselves
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Old 08-17-2007, 07:10 AM   #42
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Sorry, I didn`t know the chassis was made of plastic. I`ve only bought the axles by themselves
Its cool. I appreciate you trying to help.
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Old 08-27-2007, 09:54 PM   #43
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Not to add to the noob questions, but what benefits do you get with flipping the axles? I want to rotate the chassis, and extend the wheelbase to approx 12". I want a fairly capable crawler, but I still want to be able to bash the truck on jumps and stuff without bending/breaking things. Thanks,

Justin W
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:47 PM   #44
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Flipping the axles just makes it run in reverse as opposed to switching the motor wires to get the same outcome. I've never had a problem running motors in reverse, but many will tell you its not a good idea. I believe because of the angle of the brushes it may cause excessive brush wear. At any rate I felt more secure just flipping the axles.
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Old 08-28-2007, 05:11 PM   #45
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Looks like you have a real nice rig going. Nice and clean.

What is the gauge of the wire on your RC18 pack?

Getting the servo down on the axle will give you even better performance.

Best looking stock chassis'd Wheely Kings I have seen IMO.

Looks like you did your research
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:48 PM   #46
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Looks like you have a real nice rig going. Nice and clean.

What is the gauge of the wire on your RC18 pack?

Getting the servo down on the axle will give you even better performance.

Best looking stock chassis'd Wheely Kings I have seen IMO.

Looks like you did your research
Thanks for the positive feedback.

The gauge of the wire on the RC18 pack? Way too small.
Seriously, I believe it is 22 gauge, which is too small for 1/10th scale, but they do punch better than the stock pack, so I left them in, for now. I'd like to eventually give the RC18 its battery back. I'm planning to get some KAN cells, and build a couple of my own packs. I have some 14 gauge Novak stuff I'll use for that. Lots of things I want for it, tight on money at the moment though.


I did do my research, but I also had a couple friends that gave me some one on one time. That helped quite a bit, but of coarse I like to think I brought some of my own experience to this project.
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Old 09-02-2007, 05:09 PM   #47
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Just didn't like the paint job. Had to redo it. I'm not sure it was worth my effort, but at least I think it looks cleaner.



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Old 09-03-2007, 10:03 AM   #48
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The flame job looks beautiful!
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Old 09-10-2007, 07:36 PM   #49
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The flame job looks beautiful!
Thank you. I'm satisfied.
Since I'm lacking in funds for the goodies I want, I decided to improve on the cosmetic aspect of the chassis this weekend. Painted the frame rails with some Metal Flake Blue lacquer. Then I made some side plates from plastic backed with Spaz Stix chrome, and attached them with some screws from the Micro-T screw set.





I'm really happy with the way it came out, because I think the side plates really add to the scale looks, and I dig how its all chrome sticking out from the bottom of the body, and then you can see some blue up in the wheel wells.
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Old 11-24-2007, 09:14 AM   #50
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Hey guys. Haven't kept this thread up because I didn't want to be replying to myself. I realize though my last couple post were cosmetic things, and I guess this isn't the forum for that. So I'll give it one more try now that I have some meat to add.

I had got a 45-turn Integy motor, and some Maximizer diff locks. That really made a huge difference in how my truck performs, and how I drive it. Its a lot slower, and makes a lot wider turns. My servo still has extra throw on it, but it seems the only thing stopping it are the axles. I'm wondering if CVDs would help. I also stuck more weight in the wheels. I just put a 3oz strip in each front wheel, and another 28gm in the rears, getting them up to 56gm each.

Recently I had a chance to take it along on a family outing to Papago park, and get it on "Hole In The Rock"




It took a beating out there. Several 10ft tumbles. My mom was off with my camera most of the time, but I managed to salvage a couple little clips, to give just a taste of of the fun I had.
http://crazydavegraphics.com/images/wk1.wmv

I broke a couple ball links, but those were quick fixes, my day ended a little early, when I broke a 4-40 rod in the rear.

I finally got it back together earlier this week. I threaded a piece of 4-40 rod into a ball link and tweaked at it with a pair of pliers. I found they really shouldn't have snapped. They'll bend and twist long before they break. Judging by where mine broke I determined I wasn't getting enough threads into it. So I had to make all new linkages. I purposely made them longer, because I'll probably decide to put a bend in them.



That should be more solid now. The steering has held up fine, but the threaded rod got a little tweaked. So I put some 5/32nd aluminum tubing over it. Looks nice too.



When I got home and started going over it, I realized I broke the 4-40 rod in the rear, because the upper link had snapped. I was afraid just extending that 3rd link would be a weak point. So I went ahead and did the four link thing. I was wary of doing it before, because the upper link fits inside the hole, making the hole slightly over sized. These neat little brass spacers that come with the Dubro links solved that.


They fit perfectly in the hole


I'm glad I did it, it looks a lot better, and feels a lot more solid. That little metal bracket should be pretty tough, took me about 4-5 hours, two tries, and a hole in my finger to cut and drill it. I also used some more of that aluminum tubing on the rear steering lockouts, just because it looks nice.


And then just because the details have changed, one more vanity shot.

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Old 11-24-2007, 09:28 AM   #51
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That's a nice looking truck you got there. I like the paint and especially the way you locked out the rear axle. I'll be stealing that idea from you for sure. The "Hole In The Rock" looks like a very cool place to crawl. Unfortunately nothing like that around here.
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Old 11-24-2007, 10:51 AM   #52
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Nice build. I just got mine and when I extended the wb I also flipped the axle mountso my shocks are moved and i was able to fit my servo mount without hitting anything. I like your antenna idea and may use it for mine.
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:03 AM   #53
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the compliments. Feel free to use any ideas I had, but I'll tell you I borrowed that rear steering lockout from crawler_king, even though I did it slightly different. That's what great about forums, people can build off of other people's ideas.
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Old 11-25-2007, 06:28 AM   #54
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Looks good. Great job on both bodies.
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Old 11-29-2007, 10:57 PM   #55
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Hey CD, did you have to prep the WK frame in order to paint it? Or did you just paint right over the chrome finish?

Awesome ride btw.
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Old 11-30-2007, 03:10 PM   #56
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Wow loads of ideas spinning around in my head after seeing how you
painted the frame

Nice work
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Old 12-01-2007, 11:37 AM   #57
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Hey crazydave, I haven't been in the WK forum in a while, great looking rig, yea RCC is 90% performance, 9% bling and just to keep it interesting they throw in 1% BS.

You know sooner or later I'm going to get a HellCAT chassis under there, but go ahead a kick the snot out of that one for a while.
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Old 12-02-2007, 03:18 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by kurtz49 View Post
Hey CD, did you have to prep the WK frame in order to paint it? Or did you just paint right over the chrome finish?

Awesome ride btw.
I started to scuff it, but quickly realized how thin the chrome finish is. Since I was using a transparent metal flake color, and was too lazy to run to the store for a silver base coat, I just sprayed right over the chrome. Normally paint doesn't like to stick to chrome finishes, without some prep, but I guess this worked because its like a satin chrome.


@ripper, I haven't ruled your chassis out. My one gripe about how mine works right now is that the tranny hangs up on obstacles. I'm looking at your chassis, but you know I'm a DIY sorta guy too, so I'm still debating.
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