Newbish Trail Trekker questions

[Mrdick]

So I just pulled the trigger on a trail trekker last night and decided to throw a lipo in as well. The lipo pack I have is a 430 Mah 20c 7.4. Everything seems to run perfectly fine for the most part. I have two concerns though.

on the first pack I noticed that full throttle straight driving I would rarely see a twitch in the steering servo. You could actually see the truck swerve for a second. I also noticed the motor is getting pretty darn hot after around 10 minutes.

Is the stock motor just going to burn out after 3 packs and people are just failing to mention they have replaced them when they talk about running lipos or is it just going to normally run that hot? Should I be worried about the servo at this point as well?

Also I couldn't find any info on the stock esc anywhere, the red light that shines when you plug in a lipo versus a NiHM. Is that just to show that it recognizes the battery as a lipo?

Cheers,
Dick

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by Mrdick

So I just pulled the trigger on a trail trekker last night and decided to throw a lipo in as well. The lipo pack I have is a 430 Mah 20c 7.4. Everything seems to run perfectly fine for the most part. I have two concerns though.

on the first pack I noticed that full throttle straight driving I would rarely see a twitch in the steering servo. You could actually see the truck swerve for a second. I also noticed the motor is getting pretty darn hot after around 10 minutes.

Is the stock motor just going to burn out after 3 packs and people are just failing to mention they have replaced them when they talk about running lipos or is it just going to normally run that hot? Should I be worried about the servo at this point as well?

well all I know is if you have a 100% pure stock trekker on nihm you r fine.. once you start doing things you realize quickly that the motor isnt gonna cut it...


with that.. even though you are only running a lipo and no other mods.. that lipo is pretty big (I run 180 and 350mah 2s lipo) so maybe the extra weight and if the slipper clutch isnt slipping (as we glue ours ) the motor will heat up and eventually go.

Also I couldn't find any info on the stock esc anywhere, the red light that shines when you plug in a lipo versus a NiHM. Is that just to show that it recognizes the battery as a lipo?

Cheers,
Dick

stock esc has lipo cutoff.. i have never driven mine without a lipo so sorry to say I am not sure on the lights..


to me there are a few first mods to any trekker.. even if keeping in a truck form to play with..

1. lipo - just why not full power till lipo cutoff.. and I have yet to play and kill 1 x 350mah 2s lipo so having 5.. i would be bored by then!!!!!!!
2. motor - without a doubt even a rewound 90t stock can from Danally is a necessary item

[Mrdick]

Thanks for the input.

I actually did pull the weight on both batteries. The Stock NiHM clocks in at like 24 grams, while the lipo I have is 34. I haven't taken a temp on the stock motor after running but its hot enough for me to not want to touch it for sure. Esc stays cool.

I don't mind investing in another motor so sounds like that will be my first move. Guess I will just have to see how many runs I can get outa the stock before it burns up.

[1tuffmj]

This is good to know,I get to look at mine on the shelf till Xmas,but do have the losi lipo and charger waiting

[Mrdick]

90T from Danally ordered.

Running last night I didn't see any of those servo jumps I noticed the first pack. Maybe it was a fluke.

Now I just have to deal with the massive amount of hair that my drive line picks up from my wife's constant shedding.

[Sh0rtBus]

Originally Posted by Mrdick

Thanks for the input.

I actually did pull the weight on both batteries. The Stock NiHM clocks in at like 24 grams, while the lipo I have is 34. I haven't taken a temp on the stock motor after running but its hot enough for me to not want to touch it for sure. Esc stays cool.

I don't mind investing in another motor so sounds like that will be my first move. Guess I will just have to see how many runs I can get outa the stock before it burns up.

I actually have a micro crawler that I run Lipo on the stock motor and have yet to burn it up after at least 25-30 packs. And it's got the added weight of a road ripper Jeep body, weighted tires, etc. Haven't found a reason yet to replace it and love the wheel speed. Runs circles around my trekker with a DANALLY big block kit. Of course my trekker has gobs of torque.

[RcLee]

A Y-harness plug into same spot for steering on esc. Then plug steering back in & add an electric fan to the motor side of the frame rails. Its will stay cool. I used to do that cuz had that stuff lying around. But now have a 90t w glued slipper.

The servo is junk. Even the cheap metal gear servo's twitch. Mine does at full reverse. You should ditch the servo saver when u upgrade the servo, & just add the horn that comes w a new 1.

[SteveB]

Careful w your lipos. Theres no cut-off on the micro crawler esc! The losi/excelorin lipo/charger is good for that reason. Auto cut-off(running and charging) is built into the battery. But theyre pretty outrageously priced.I think around 50-60$. Ive been running 250mah 20c 2s venoms-$10 each. .stock esc still good after at least 30 runs.

[anuthabubba]

The factory micro rcvr/esc does have lipo cutoff. It seems to be set kinda hi in fact. My Venoms hit cutoff around 6.8v or higher.

Edit: Read the Jan. 2012 thread by Rockfrog: "Straight from the horses mouth"

[Mrdick]

Finally got around to putting in the 90t I got from Danally last week. SO MUCH better than the stock can. Loving it. Longer run times, not more heat issues, and performs great.

I also picked up a Hitec HS-65MG servo to replace the stock one. Again, a very welcome upgrade. No more steering glitches and has tons of power.

Next up is wheels/tires....

Cheers,
Dick

[DANALLY]

Glad to hear it! I make bead lock rims too