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05-23-2009, 04:34 PM
| #1 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
|  the good and bad?
whats the good things about the mrc? what are the bad things? im getting one soon so id like to know whats gonna brake first. what im gonna be able to keep from the stock fourm? what will make the biggest improvement? yes i have searched and got a few ideas from others. help would be verry helpful!  thanks guys!
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05-23-2009, 08:03 PM
| #2 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: SoCal
Posts: 222
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Some good things about the MRC are that it can be used in many places because of its small size and can easily be taken with you when you go somewhere without taking up much room. There are also many upgrades available for it, which is a big plus. I don't own one, so I can't say anything about the bad things except that it has a tough time keeping up with bigger crawlers on larger rocks.
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05-23-2009, 09:01 PM
| #3 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: West Monroe
Posts: 116
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Here are the cons that you need to worry about right off the bat. LOCKERS! Front, rear and center. There arent really any other cons that I can think of but the suspension requires some tuning. Lower your cog as much as possible and a little bit of weight in the tires helps alot too. I recommend getting rid of the stock battery that comes with it and get and getting a lipo.
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05-23-2009, 09:26 PM
| #4 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
| Quote:
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05-23-2009, 10:14 PM
| #5 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: West Monroe
Posts: 116
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dont count it out yet i paid 20 bucks for my 7.4 lipo from common sense rc
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05-23-2009, 10:22 PM
| #6 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
| Quote:
 id also like to get the basics first like lockers and such ive already got a list going | |
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05-23-2009, 10:23 PM
| #7 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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Has anybody used the hot racing drive shafts?
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05-23-2009, 11:16 PM
| #8 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ontario,Canada
Posts: 106
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Check out Hobbycity.com I got my lipos for 6.75each for 1000mah. They also have very reasonable chargers check out this one. One of the best Lipo chargers out there at any price. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...alance/Charger and for a power supply this http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...A_Power_Supply will get you by up to 5amp or 5000mah pack which is much more than you will ever run in a crawler. Heres the Lipos I run I get well over an hour per charge on my Holmes Mini Torque master http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...00mAh_2S1P_20C |
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05-23-2009, 11:25 PM
| #9 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Surprise, Az
Posts: 848
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pros- tranny and axles Cons- bunch of parts you will replace when you upgrade |
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05-24-2009, 01:28 AM
| #10 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Conowingo, Maryland
Posts: 366
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deffinitely get the metal front,rear,and center lockers. Pick up a set of rcbros chassis plates More tuning options over stock and only 25$ shipped. along with their beadlock converters and get some blue claws or g8 flat irons. Maybe some high clearance links too. Good luck By the way all things i mentioned can be purchased at rcbros.com |
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05-24-2009, 07:44 AM
| #11 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Concrete Jungle
Posts: 9
| Quote:
X2, RCbros has very competitive prices  | |
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05-24-2009, 08:46 AM
| #12 |
| Rock Crawler  Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: West of Eugene, OR
Posts: 942
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x3 on RCBros = great. Some good things have been mentioned; and since you're on a tight budget, I'll reiterate with what I did the first month or so of having my MRC: -Don't remove the servo-saver from the stock servo. It limits the servo, of course, but it will save the plastic gears. Many of us who took off the servo-saver killed the servo within minutes.  -Lower the Center of Gravity and get more weight up front by moving stuff around. The Mini Rock Crawler sub-forum has lots of info...read, read, read! Moving the weight around is really worth the time, effort, and near-zero cost. -Front/Rear lockers (RCBros) for sure, the Center when you can. -Play with the [limited] tuning of the stock shocks. Internal limiters, springs, different weight oil. I'm looking forward to aluminum shocks, but for now, 50wt and 1/4" spacers inside limits full extension - seems to work well, for my limited basis of comparison. -Axial 8-Hole Bead Lock wheels. I tried the do-it-yourself bead lock mod which worked OK for me; but I really like the inexpensive Axials. They hold a bead quite well and look pretty good. Until you upgrade wheels, be gentle on the stock wheels and the little screws when removing or installing the bead lock ring. -Losi [Blue] Rock Claws. These are awesome. They've the same tread pattern as the stock MRC tires, but the rubber compund in the Blue Claws makes these things pretty sticky. Simple Green brings them back to life everytime. Some other things I've done... -Castle Creations BEC. I knew I would eventually upgrade the servo so I got this beforehand to save the stock ESC. I got the Castle link, too, so I could program the BEC to 6v. -Upgraded to a JR Sport "ST126MG" standard size servo. It puts out about 140oz at 6v. (I went with a JR and not a HiTec because my LHS only had one standard size servo with metal gears and, I was trying to support the local economy!) I was "motivated" to upgrade because of the aforementioned servo-saver removal. (Actually, the screw worked its way loose, I lost the saver, and so I installed the regular servo horn.....bam! I found the saver, later, with a telescoping magnetic thingy, but it was too late to save the servo!) -Front 4-Link Plate (RCBros) for mounting the standard size servo. I originally made a plate out of sheet metal, but I'm limited to a Dremel and Hand-drill and I wasn't happy with how it came out... I just got the front 4-Link Plate from RCBros and I'll be finishing the front links today. -Rear 4-Link Plate. The rear plate is less technical and the one I made at home came out nice enough to not be embarassing.  . . Good luck, have fun, and drive it before you do anything! Drive it, modify it a little, drive it again. Rinse. Repeat. I have very little RC experience; and I'm learning a lot by reading the forums, driving, analyzing, modifying, and driving again...  Last edited by JeepinOR; 05-24-2009 at 09:04 AM. |
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05-24-2009, 01:25 PM
| #13 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cottontown
Posts: 880
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Well, since you asked I'll tell you what I know, found out, and broke on my MRC. I'll also tell you I replaced and the cost vs importance of doing so. When I got my MRC, it was pretty good at "couch" crawlin. And what I thought was pretty good outside as well. You really really need to practice and practice to learn how your trunk words. Heres what I broke and found out (little tricks) on the MRC. Lets go with what broke first. The rear lockers were the first to go. EVERY one that gets a MRC has to replace the stock plastic lockers. They will hold up find for indoor use, but once you get out into some rocks and tough terrain theyre gone. I replaced my front and rear as well as my center. Tho alot of people, myself included think the stock center lockers will hold up fine, and they even seem to do O.K. on some of the comp crawlers, I went ahead and replaced them on mine cause I was already tearing the rig apart, so it just made sense to me. I went with the Losi lockers cause I was new to crawlin and didnt know RcBros made em. I wish I had gotten the RcBros, and will eventually switch to theres. Once you get the Lockers out of the way you need to deal with the batteries. Alot of people swear by the LiPo's and I love em as much as the next guy. However, in crawlin I haven't seen where they would make any diffrence at all. Your almost never running wide open. You almost never run for more than 45mins, to an hour. And even when you are running that long your not continually running so What I did was split the pack up into two on the servo, and two on each corner of the rear axle. If you can solder, and dont understand how to build packs then dont split em up, instead just secure the whole pack to the front servo with some zip ties. Whatever you do, get them off the top of the rig. It really really helps alot. Once you have the batts all figured out, then flip the motor and trans around the opposite direction. The only real reason to do this is to allow more space for the electronics your about to move. Now, with the motor flippd round, you need to address those electronics. Make two triangulated shelf the same size as the upper three links on the front and rear and secure them with small zip ties. Then mount the ESC up front and the reciever out back. The reason for the reciever out back is so you dont have a mile of servo wires to deal with. Now when you go to hook it all back up you need to either switch the positive and negative wires from the motor to the ESC (red to black, black to red) or just flip the switch on the top of the reciver. Makes no diffrence which you do. Both accomplish the same thing. Now its on to some more cool stuff. Either make your own beadlocks (there are plenty of "how to" threads on here) but I went the Axial route. They make a really good, good lookin wheel for pretty cheap. Also, I went with the ProLine G8 FlatIrons... The reason I did was because they were not only taller, but wider, and flatter treaded than even the blue claws or the bashers. Not that I have anything against the blues or bashers, but I liked the FlatIrons because of the above mentioned, but also because of the terrain I have in my area. Whatever you get, read up, ask around... go to the LHS and look at both... Make sure you make an informed desicion. (if you get the flatirons, make sure you get the G8 compound... the regular compound sucks balls) Once you've got the wheels and tires sorted, get some wheel weights. I run 6oz in the front, and 3oz in the rear. I wouldn't put more than 4oz on the front with the stock servo tho. You need to do some work to the stock shocks to get them to do what you want. I went and bought 1 pack of Mini T upgrade springs from my LHS. I used the blues on the back, and the greens up front. Pull your shocks apart and use some nitro fuel tubing to internally limit the shocks at least 1/4" (i went 3/8ths). While you have them apart, upgrade to at least 50wt shock oil. It lowers your truck to a more liveable height making it less prone to roll over. Then you need a new servo. Get the Hitech 645. Its the most widely used one on the MRC, its great, rarely breaks and is really stong. If your on a budget tho dont worry about getting a full size servo mounting plate and the mounts themselves. Do what I did, run two zip ties around it side ways, and 1 around it front to back. Tighten em down, and it aint goin nowhere. Now we get into the serious stuff. Get a good chassis kit. I would personally recommend the new RcBros miXer chassis. They are just now getting sent out after months and months of testing. I was lucky to be one of the first one to get one for testing and can tell you this about it.... ITS KILLER, and not that expensive. However read around, there are lots of really really good chassis and TVP kits out. Make a wise choice here. Dont listen to what others tell you, search the build threads, look at the diffrent chassis and TVP kits... Ask questions and then and only then buy one. Also get some front and rear four link plates and some four link rods too. Most offer them in a package or seperatly. Some of the nicer kits come with all of it. Get some good threaded body alum shocks. I got the RcBros myself. Lots of people on here rave about them. So I contacted RcBros, and after talking to William I decided that they were the way to go. Losi also makes some good ones. Then were on to the electronics. Get a good ESC. I most seem to be in agreement that the Tekin FXR, or B1R are the way to go. However the mini sidewinder also gets good reviews around here. Whatever you get, make sure its got reverse, and a good strong drag brake. Then the motor. Holmes Hobbies Torque master mini all the way. Its the shizzle. heres a two companies I wouldn't touch any of there stuff for fear it would break, and the crappyness would rub off on my and I'd start breaking. Integy, they make probably the crappiest stuff ever. Looks real good and all... but everything they make is crap. Whatever you do, dont buy there crap. Hot Racing. This one is debatable, but alot of there stuff is crap IMO. Others my want to chime in here with there thoughts on crappy products. As for the good companies, heres a short list of a few, RcBros, some Losi stuff, Dark Soul, Chaotic, KamakaziKustoms and SAC racing... there is a whole section listing all the manufactures heres the link Losi MRC Ultimate Guide Ask around here before you buy... thats a word to the wise. Good luck Darryl |
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05-24-2009, 08:14 PM
| #14 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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thanks for all that verry useful advice Darryl i will use it for sure and im set in stone on getting lockers (all 3), hh mini tourqe master, 1.9 g8 chisels. 1.9 blue claws, alum shocks ( not sure witch ones), and the new 1/18 proline chevy body. maybe the hot racing or MIP drive shafts
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05-25-2009, 01:01 PM
| #15 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Liberty
Posts: 32
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Well I 'll be honest here,I have owned one for a while now,have ran it outside on my rock pile,and so far I haven't broken anything! Even these stock lockers I have yet to break,If it was me I would wait until they do break then go buy some aftermarket ones,limiting your funds that is. I have ran it hard ,also....I'm not disagreeing with anyone here,I'm just saying if it isn't broke..don't fix it! As for the what all I have done to mine,its mostly stock,I did buy thos LOSI threaded shocks,I think they suck..they leaked the first time I put them on...so I have to silicone them together...now they don't leak,but I still don't like them..they are to stiff...maybe I just need some help on how to set them up? I just bought a set of INTEGY bent four link bars....DON'T buy those...they suck also....they limited the flex bigtime! Overall I do like my Losi MRC though,its fun to run...but like the rest of the guys said,you need to move the battery somewhere lower,which is alittle hard to do considering the room you have to deal with. |
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05-25-2009, 02:40 PM
| #16 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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05-25-2009, 07:28 PM
| #17 |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Liberty
Posts: 32
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I take back everything I said in regard to bashing any products mentioned in my post.... Just got myself in some trouble on another thread on here,I'll keep my comments to myself on here for now on  |
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05-29-2009, 09:04 PM
| #18 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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05-29-2009, 09:08 PM
| #19 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: sittin in the sky
Posts: 4,630
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what are the cheap bead lock choices you guys have used and they hold up good? im planning on some 1.9 chisels for it and the pro-line '72 c-10 chevy to match the 2.2 i have
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05-30-2009, 10:01 AM
| #20 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cottontown
Posts: 880
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I pretty much stick with the Axial 8 hole beadlocks. Theyre cheap and strong. I havent had any problems out of them, and dont know anyone who has.
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