RCCrawler Forums

gottorque · 08-12-2009, 10:56 AM

i used soundcolors idea of using the factory rod ends and mocked it up with everything on the back side of the axle. The driveshaft and links clear but i will have to get a longer servo horn so the shocks can clear as they are hitting the top drag link. also with the links parallel it will save some stress on the mounting points and servo. I am not shure how it will clear the top two links when i get the mixxer kit installed when it comes in. If it does not work I may end up fashoning a link that will bend around from the right side drag link to the front mounted servo. I have seen this done only one other time on an mrc. But again guys i am just mocking up to see if it will actually work. Any suggestions would help to.

stubs179 · 08-12-2009, 12:12 PM

You could try something like this. It was posted the other day.

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...b/PICT1312.jpg

gottorque · 08-12-2009, 12:23 PM

thats the one set up i was refering to. do you know whos that was so i can ask them about how they bended the link with out breaking it as i had done

Mr. Ed · 08-12-2009, 02:01 PM

You might try some threaded rod like 4/40 and use some different rod ends you should be able to bend that easier as far as the factory link you would probally have to heat it up but then it would be hard cuz it's HOT

. I think you may be on to something there I'll be watchin to see what you come up with!

gottorque · 08-12-2009, 02:06 PM

I know where your coming from with trying to bend the stock link with heat. a 500 degree soldering iron didnt do anything. i might try a torch with a very fine flame but i dont know that might be overkill. ill be looking around my grage to see what i can find that will work.

gottorque · 08-12-2009, 05:16 PM

Ok. after working on it this afternoon and digging around looking around for stuff that might work. i found a box of screws that are about the same size as 4-40 allthread and the 3 millimeter rod ends screwed on just fine after i cut the head off. I first tried to heat it up with the blue flame of a lighter by heating it up and at the same time bending it with a pair of pliars. The heat helped a little but over muscled the bending and snapped the screw in half.
I grabbed another screw and insted of heating it, i gradually cut and bent it by hand with the help of a vice. During this time i was holding it up in the space where it shuld be and making bends and cuts accordingly. I got the size about where i wanted and screwed on the rod ends on each side and took a screw and mounted one end on the horn and the other on the right side spindle. I then plugged the servo in and adjusted the trim and the servo horn to get centered. This is where i am at now and i know its not the most attractive piece but it should work. i am just hoping that it will clear the top two links of my mixxer kit when it comes in next week. Till then its a work in progress

snowblader13 · 08-12-2009, 09:47 PM

Looks good to me

Looks as if the nuts attached to the Knuckles would get caught up on the rocks, is there enough clearance. i may do this mod and wanna know for myself

rickysb · 08-12-2009, 09:48 PM

that link a little higher up is a pic of my truck in progress ... i'll snap some better pics and do a write up for everyone who is interested ... i just wanted something original and hadnt seen anyone with anything close to what i did ...

gottorque · 08-12-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowblader13

Looks good to me

Looks as if the nuts attached to the Knuckles would get caught up on the rocks, is there enough clearance. i may do this mod and wanna know for myself

They are button heads and i have flat irons whice i dont think will be a problem unless your running something like blue claws then you might want to take it into consideration but it shuldent be to bad

And rickysb. you my motivation for doing it that way. your the only other one to do it that way. but i did use soundcolors tip of using the stock link as the lower drag link

snowblader13 · 08-12-2009, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gottorque

They are button heads and i have flat irons whice i dont think will be a problem unless your running something like blue claws then you might want to take it into consideration but it shuldent be to bad

Ok, i looked again and in the first pic they are above the bottom of the axel, in the last pic it looked as if they were below the axel. And for sure with flat irons you shouldnt have any problems

gottorque · 08-12-2009, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snowblader13

Ok, i looked again and in the first pic they are above the bottom of the axel, in the last pic it looked as if they were below the axel. And for sure with flat irons you shouldnt have any problems

I think it is just the angle that the pics were taken but i looked at it again and its like a millimeter below the diff but it is surrounded by the wheels. so no problems at all

gottorque · 08-14-2009, 11:09 AM

Ok, i put it all back together and was pretty amazed at what moving the steering to the back of the axle does in terms of clearance and nothing to get hung up on.

And even with blue claws the ground clearence is still pretty good.

constantmotion · 08-14-2009, 12:08 PM

All I see is cap head screws....not button heads. But it don't matter. Good job on this. I will have to give it a shot.

rickysb · 08-15-2009, 10:13 PM

i added some more pics to my thread if anyone is interested

my mrc

zach318 · 08-16-2009, 03:24 AM

thanks for the link to that I will have to try that on my MRC

Diablo169 · 08-16-2009, 11:33 PM

That looks like it would get hung up way more than leaving it stock.

For fun I made a center link out of some 4/40 allthread and some Traxxas ends, and ran it in between the servo plate. I can't find my camera otherwise I'd post a pick.

gottorque · 08-17-2009, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diablo169

That looks like it would get hung up way more than leaving it stock.

Well actually not because in the lower 2 pics there isint anything lower than the pumpkin and it wont hit at all, where as with a stock setup, the lower drag link and pumpkin create a right angle thus allowing you to potentially get hung up

chetly · 08-17-2009, 05:32 PM

I would recommend upgrading the hardware to 3mm vs the stock 2mm, especially in the metal knuckles. My truck took a couple falls and each time it broke the 2mm hardware. After upgrading to 3mm it has taken even bigger falls with no breakage.

gottorque · 08-17-2009, 05:57 PM

The link that goes from the servo to the knuckle uses 3 millimeter ends, but and being protected by the tires. i dont see a problem unless it fell directly on its wheels. But the question is weather 3 millimeter hardware will fit in such a tight space

soundcolor · 08-17-2009, 06:45 PM

I have been staring at your pics and thinking...
Now I cant do this on my rig, due to much larger diameter links, but with the stock steel links this should not be a problem.

Instead of running the drag link across the bottom, under the driveshaft, why dont you run it on top, over the upper links.
If the stock shocks will clear that steering link you have, then there is no reason that it will not clear the drag link.

Then, when you get that done, try this for the steering link.
Remove the ball stud from the inside of the horn, and mount it to the outisde. Then re-work the steering link so it doesnt have any interferance with the shocks.

I think that will pretty much get rid of any of the possible issues you may incure on the trail.

Let us know how that works

08-12-2009, 10:56 AM	#1
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	Behind the axle Steering i used soundcolors idea of using the factory rod ends and mocked it up with everything on the back side of the axle. The driveshaft and links clear but i will have to get a longer servo horn so the shocks can clear as they are hitting the top drag link. also with the links parallel it will save some stress on the mounting points and servo. I am not shure how it will clear the top two links when i get the mixxer kit installed when it comes in. If it does not work I may end up fashoning a link that will bend around from the right side drag link to the front mounted servo. I have seen this done only one other time on an mrc. But again guys i am just mocking up to see if it will actually work. Any suggestions would help to.

08-12-2009, 02:01 PM	#4
Mr. Ed RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Old Hickory Posts: 1,137	You might try some threaded rod like 4/40 and use some different rod ends you should be able to bend that easier as far as the factory link you would probally have to heat it up but then it would be hard cuz it's HOT. I think you may be on to something there I'll be watchin to see what you come up with!

08-14-2009, 11:09 AM	#12
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	Ok, i put it all back together and was pretty amazed at what moving the steering to the back of the axle does in terms of clearance and nothing to get hung up on.And even with blue claws the ground clearence is still pretty good.

08-12-2009, 12:12 PM	#2
stubs179 RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Reno, Nv Posts: 1,964	You could try something like this. It was posted the other day. http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...b/PICT1312.jpg

08-12-2009, 12:23 PM	#3
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	thats the one set up i was refering to. do you know whos that was so i can ask them about how they bended the link with out breaking it as i had done

08-12-2009, 02:06 PM	#5
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	I know where your coming from with trying to bend the stock link with heat. a 500 degree soldering iron didnt do anything. i might try a torch with a very fine flame but i dont know that might be overkill. ill be looking around my grage to see what i can find that will work.

08-12-2009, 05:16 PM	#6
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	Ok. after working on it this afternoon and digging around looking around for stuff that might work. i found a box of screws that are about the same size as 4-40 allthread and the 3 millimeter rod ends screwed on just fine after i cut the head off. I first tried to heat it up with the blue flame of a lighter by heating it up and at the same time bending it with a pair of pliars. The heat helped a little but over muscled the bending and snapped the screw in half. I grabbed another screw and insted of heating it, i gradually cut and bent it by hand with the help of a vice. During this time i was holding it up in the space where it shuld be and making bends and cuts accordingly. I got the size about where i wanted and screwed on the rod ends on each side and took a screw and mounted one end on the horn and the other on the right side spindle. I then plugged the servo in and adjusted the trim and the servo horn to get centered. This is where i am at now and i know its not the most attractive piece but it should work. i am just hoping that it will clear the top two links of my mixxer kit when it comes in next week. Till then its a work in progress

08-12-2009, 09:47 PM	#7
snowblader13 Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Spokane Posts: 83	Looks good to me Looks as if the nuts attached to the Knuckles would get caught up on the rocks, is there enough clearance. i may do this mod and wanna know for myself

08-12-2009, 09:48 PM	#8
rickysb Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: north idaho Posts: 44	that link a little higher up is a pic of my truck in progress ... i'll snap some better pics and do a write up for everyone who is interested ... i just wanted something original and hadnt seen anyone with anything close to what i did ...

08-14-2009, 12:08 PM	#13
constantmotion On the lookout for Rocks Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Monroe, Louisiana Posts: 3,711	All I see is cap head screws....not button heads. But it don't matter. Good job on this. I will have to give it a shot.

08-15-2009, 10:13 PM	#14
rickysb Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: north idaho Posts: 44	i added some more pics to my thread if anyone is interested my mrc

08-16-2009, 03:24 AM	#15
zach318 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: washington state Posts: 29	thanks for the link to that I will have to try that on my MRC

08-16-2009, 11:33 PM	#16
Diablo169 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Santa Cruz Mountains Posts: 112	That looks like it would get hung up way more than leaving it stock. For fun I made a center link out of some 4/40 allthread and some Traxxas ends, and ran it in between the servo plate. I can't find my camera otherwise I'd post a pick.

Sponsored Links

08-17-2009, 05:32 PM	#18
chetly Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Castro Valley Posts: 214	I would recommend upgrading the hardware to 3mm vs the stock 2mm, especially in the metal knuckles. My truck took a couple falls and each time it broke the 2mm hardware. After upgrading to 3mm it has taken even bigger falls with no breakage.

08-17-2009, 05:57 PM	#19
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	The link that goes from the servo to the knuckle uses 3 millimeter ends, but and being protected by the tires. i dont see a problem unless it fell directly on its wheels. But the question is weather 3 millimeter hardware will fit in such a tight space

08-17-2009, 06:45 PM	#20
soundcolor Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Cottontown Posts: 880	I have been staring at your pics and thinking... Now I cant do this on my rig, due to much larger diameter links, but with the stock steel links this should not be a problem. Instead of running the drag link across the bottom, under the driveshaft, why dont you run it on top, over the upper links. If the stock shocks will clear that steering link you have, then there is no reason that it will not clear the drag link. Then, when you get that done, try this for the steering link. Remove the ball stud from the inside of the horn, and mount it to the outisde. Then re-work the steering link so it doesnt have any interferance with the shocks. I think that will pretty much get rid of any of the possible issues you may incure on the trail. Let us know how that works

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Behind the axle Steering