Csnyder's GC3 Build + Assembly Tips

[Csnyder]

The MRC is my first foray back into the RC scene after all of my gear was stolen a little over a year ago. It's taken me awhile to jump back into the hobby, but I'm glad to be back.

Originally I picked up a MRC was a way to "ease" back into crawling before building another 2.2 rig, but one thing led to another and now I'm prepping for this year's WARCRC comps.

Anyway, enough fluff, here's the specs:

GC3 chassis
Losi aluminum inner/outer steering knuckles
Homemade 3mm steering links
Losi CVDs
Losi aluminum rear hubs w/ upgraded rear shafts
Losi steel lockers front/rear/center
Hot Racing aluminum shocks w/ silver springs and 50wt oil
Stock MRC motor (for now) w/ stock pinion and spur
Tekin FXR ESC
Stock MRC receiver
Stock MRC radio (for now)
Hitec HS-5645MG servo
MaxAmps 800mah 2S lipo
Losi aluminum wheel hexes
Losi aluminum beadlocks
Losi Rock Claws (blue) w/ Losi foams
Losi Grappler body

[Csnyder]

For the most part I'm really happy w/ the GC3 chassis. The parts are nicely made and the reverse triangulated four link suspension works great. There are a few build issues I ran into, though. Nothing major, but here are a few tips:

Lower Suspension Links

Out of the box, the lower links bind on both the skid plate and the nuts that secure the link balls. This is due to the operating angle of the link balls and the fact that flange-less balls are used, which simply do not have the operating range of their flanged brothers.

To fix this, I picked up a set of Axial flanged balls at my LHS, along w/ some 3x40mm button head screws and nylock nuts. I used the flanged balls on the lower links at the chassis end, and ran the long screws all the way through the chassis, affixing both link ends. The lower links no longer bind, and the added bonus is that there's a nylock to secure it all (the chassis is too narrow for nylocks to fit on the individual links).

Lower Shock Mounts

The link geometry on the GC3 causes the upper links to contact the shocks upon articulation. Mounting the links on the inside of the chassis fixes the shock problem, but causes the driveshafts to contact the link hardware on compression. I've seen a few people space the top shock mount out a ways from the chassis, but that just looks wonkey to me.

The fix I came up w/ was to attach the lower end of the shock to the outside of the outer shock tab, replacing the stock screws w/ 2x20mm screws (I got mine from www.tonysscrews.com). To give the tab a bit of extra support and prevent it from bending in when tightening the screw, I put a stock MRC link ball in the originall shock location.

[Csnyder]

For now this thing is pretty dialed and working well. Next on the agenda at some point are:

HH Mini TorqueMaster (would like a little more wheel speed)
Better transmitter w/ separate left/right EPAs
HB Rovers (on the way )

If for some reason the Rovers don't show up, there's always the backup plan...



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[black92coupe]

^ i like this

[JatoTheRipper]

I'm very sorry to hear about your house getting robbed and you losing everything!

That is a sick truck! I love the paintjob. The Losi wheels always look great too. I'm itching to get one of those GC-3 chassis too. Or maybe one of the Chinos.

What did you use to make the steering links?

It even looks awesome with the larger wheels and tires. It's like a monster truck. What are those wheels and tires from?

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I'm very sorry to hear about your house getting robbed and you losing everything!

That is a sick truck! I love the paintjob. The Losi wheels always look great too. I'm itching to get one of those GC-3 chassis too. Or maybe one of the Chinos.

Thanks! The paint was better until I removed the masks off the hood and part of the scallops came w/ them. Oh well, it's a crawler, not a shelf queen!

I'm really happy w/ the Losi beadlocks. They go together easier than any other beadlocks that I've used and the machining on them is top notch.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

What did you use to make the steering links?

The tierod is a 3x82mm turnbuckle from a Stampede. The draglink is a 3x40mm screw that I cut down to length. Use of 3mm hardware is a must IMHO. I used the homemade draglink together w/ the stock MRC tierod and 2mm fasteners temporarily when I first got everything put together, and the 2mm hardware didn't last through one pack.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

It even looks awesome with the larger wheels and tires. It's like a monster truck. What are those wheels and tires from?

The wheels/tires are from my old TLT kit. The first time I mounted them up it was really just as a joke, but I think they look pretty cool as well. Of course the traction w/ them is pretty lacking.

[eric113]

How you been liking the Hot racing shocks ? I'm tried of my leaking Losi's.

Are they smooth ?

[JeepinOR]

Originally Posted by eric113

How you been liking the Hot racing shocks ? I'm tried of my leaking Losi's. Are they smooth ?

My Hr's are kind of smooth - when they have oil in them. The first month seemed 'OK' but they're leakin' a bit now. I'll be shopping for others...

[jdawg53]

Originally Posted by eric113

How you been liking the Hot racing shocks ? I'm tried of my leaking Losi's.

Are they smooth ?

Vendetta shocks Super smooth and no leaks.
J

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by eric113

How you been liking the Hot racing shocks ? I'm tried of my leaking Losi's.

Are they smooth ?

I agree w/ what JeepinCA said - I would categorize them as "kind of smooth", or "mostly smooth". They are working fine for now and haven't leaked on me, but I'm interested in trying the Vendettas as well to compare. I actually have a set of each already; I want to get a MRC for my wife, so whichever shocks I don't ultimately use will go on her rig.

I lost one of the O-ring retainer clips while assembling the Vendettas, so I haven't had a chance to run them yet. Here are my thoughts on each after a close hands-on inspection, though:

Vendetta rears

• In theory they'll seal better than the HR's due to the Vendettas using a diaphragm to seal at the top of the shock, while the HR's simply use an O-ring.
• Smooth shaft movement (at least that's what everyone says who uses them).
• Rebuildable construction.

Hot Racing

• Lower shock end uses an actual rod end, whereas the Vendettas just have a mounting hole. In looking at the orientation of my shocks when they're compressed, relative to the axle, I can't help but think that the Vendettas will bind a bit on compression.
• Two pairs of springs are included.
• Aluminum upper shock bushings are included.
• Shocks come fully assembled. The aluminum Vendettas do not, while the plastic bodied ones do.
• Threaded shock body in case you need to pre-load the spring.

Each brand is priced nearly the same per pair. I think it's fair to say that you get a better initial value w/ the Hot Racing shocks, but performance wise I can't comment as I haven't been able to run the Vendettas yet.

Jason - is there any way for me to get ahold of a replacement O-ring retainer spring or two so that I can give my Vendettas a go and possibly offload my HR's on my wife? On Tower's site, the page for the aluminum Vendettas does not list individual part #'s, and on the page for the plastic bodied version, the spring retainer link doesn't actually point to a spring retainer...

- Chris

[pigblanket]

cysnder

Lower shock end uses an actual rod end, whereas the Vendettas just have a mounting hole. In looking at the orientation of my shocks when they're compressed, relative to the axle, I can't help but think that the Vendettas will bind a bit on compression.

I was worried about the lower shock ends binding as well. I replaced the stock vendetta lower shock end with the ones off my losi aluminum. I moved the lower shock spring retainer piece over as well. The vedetta springs are a little tight on the losi retainer but work well for a fix. they have yet to fall off and been running several times a week since i put them on shortly after Christmas. These are a great shock I need to get another pair they seem to work real well with my chino.
By the way sweet truck I love it with the tlt wheels

Dave

[jdawg53]

Csnyder
Most everyone removes the stock shock end (designed to fit the Vedetta race series) and installs the shock end and spring retainer from the stock Losi shocks. This works well.
J

[Csnyder]

Thanks guys. Yeah I tried the stock shock end and retainer the other night after updating this forum thread, looks like a perfect fit.

Originally Posted by jdawg53

Csnyder
Most everyone removes the stock shock end (designed to fit the Vedetta race series) and installs the shock end and spring retainer from the stock Losi shocks. This works well.
J

Thanks. Any thoughts on how I can obtain a replacement O-ring retainer clip or two so that I can finish assembling my Vendettas and try them out? I haven't been able to find a valid part number through either the Duratrax site or Tower's site.

- Chris

[jdawg53]

Originally Posted by Csnyder

Thanks guys. Yeah I tried the stock shock end and retainer the other night after updating this forum thread, looks like a perfect fit.



Thanks. Any thoughts on how I can obtain a replacement O-ring retainer clip or two so that I can finish assembling my Vendettas and try them out? I haven't been able to find a valid part number through either the Duratrax site or Tower's site.

- Chris

Drop me a pm with your shipping address.
J

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by jdawg53

Drop me a pm with your shipping address.
J

PM sent, thanks!

- Chris

[black92coupe]

hey i was wondering if you're running any wheel widners or something?
when i put my shocks on the outside of the tab the wheel almost touches at full turn, and when it articulates it full on hits it hard/rubs bad


this chassis seems to be designed very poorly, if i could do it over again i would have stuck with my stock setup, theres so many issues im haivng with this thing
nothing moves smoothly, it binds everywhere

a lot of wrong hardware that im having a very hard time replacing , you'd think for the price they charge for this chassis that it would come with everything you need and work properly out of the box, not having to monkey around with every aspect of it

seems like i could have made a better chassis myself with the amount of time ive put into tryin to fix this crap

sorry for the rant but im getting pretty fed up with this thing

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by black92coupe

hey i was wondering if you're running any wheel widners or something?
when i put my shocks on the outside of the tab the wheel almost touches at full turn, and when it articulates it full on hits it hard/rubs bad

I am using the Losi aluminum hexes, which add a few mm's per side, but no wideners per-se. I'm also running the Losi aluminum beadlocks. Perhaps it's a backspacing issue w/ your wheels? How do you have the upper shock mounts setup?

Originally Posted by black92coupe

this chassis seems to be designed very poorly, if i could do it over again i would have stuck with my stock setup, theres so many issues im haivng with this thing
nothing moves smoothly, it binds everywhere

a lot of wrong hardware that im having a very hard time replacing , you'd think for the price they charge for this chassis that it would come with everything you need and work properly out of the box, not having to monkey around with every aspect of it

seems like i could have made a better chassis myself with the amount of time ive put into tryin to fix this crap

sorry for the rant but im getting pretty fed up with this thing

The chassis does need some "massaging" to work well. Read my notes on re-working the chassis end of the lower links; using different hardware and rod end balls really helps to un-bind the suspension. Also, take your time when assembling the links. The included rod ends will bind very quickly if the studs (which connect the rod ends to the links) are screwed in too far.

- Chris

[jamescam]

Would you mind posting an underside pic of your chassis so I can see the links mod with nylon nut you mentioned.

[black92coupe]

Originally Posted by Csnyder

I am using the Losi aluminum hexes, which add a few mm's per side, but no wideners per-se. I'm also running the Losi aluminum beadlocks. Perhaps it's a backspacing issue w/ your wheels? How do you have the upper shock mounts setup?



The chassis does need some "massaging" to work well. Read my notes on re-working the chassis end of the lower links; using different hardware and rod end balls really helps to un-bind the suspension. Also, take your time when assembling the links. The included rod ends will bind very quickly if the studs (which connect the rod ends to the links) are screwed in too far.

- Chris

yeah i looked at it for a while and noticed all the rod ends were binding and replaced with traxxas stuff, works mint now

thanks for the tips man

[RacerScott]

On the subject of vendetta shocks, what ones are people using? The buggy rears or the vendetta st? Also, how do you mount the top of the shock? Does the stock losi upper shock ball mount work?