Mini-z 4x4 4Runner, how to make it better!

[CODYBOY]

Ok guys let's start posting what is working for us. I get mine tomorrow and will give it a good lookover before I start tearing it apart. I'd like to figure out how to swap out to after market tires and wheels.
Ernie

Found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmOg...M91Nxz&index=3

[CODYBOY]

First project, design axle mount weight. If you have looked at any of my builds you know I love to repurpose parts. Here is some brass parts off of underground sprinklers.



Off to the drill press and lathe.



The front comes in at 10 grams of non rotating weight.





Front and rear and then a rear.



Rear weighs in at 16 grams for now.



Working material.



And Front and rear on a little stand. Still need to drill and tap for lock down set screws.



I may build some of these for sale after I test a little.
Thanks for looking,
Ernie

[AnimalHippie]

Those weights look awesome brother! Can’t wait to see what comes of this rig! Maybe one day I’ll have a awesome shop to make cool parts like you Keep up the great work brother!!! I was packing up the box to ship you some micro parts and I have a hold up. The girls found out I was shipping Mr Ernie some stuff and they wanted to send you something too. So It'll be a couple days before I send it out. Have a great day!!!

[CrawlingSF]

Nice! Weight down low and non rotational is going to keep this thing planted. Interested to see how you come up with a way to secure the weights.

I’d definitely consider buying a front pair of weights from you down the line!

[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by CrawlingSF

Nice! Weight down low and non rotational is going to keep this thing planted. Interested to see how you come up with a way to secure the weights.

I’d definitely consider buying a front pair of weights from you down the line!

Thanks Crawling, It is a lot of work for a small part, 4.5 grams!
I'll post some pics of how I secured them.

Originally Posted by AnimalHippie

Those weights look awesome brother! Can’t wait to see what comes of this rig! Maybe one day I’ll have a awesome shop to make cool parts like you Keep up the great work brother!!! I was packing up the box to ship you some micro parts and I have a hold up. The girls found out I was shipping Mr Ernie some stuff and they wanted to send you something too. So It'll be a couple days before I send it out. Have a great day!!!

Thanks for the kind words Justin!
Can't wait to see what the girls are putting together

Here is a little update on the weights.

I drilled and tapped holes for 3mm set screws in the top and bottom of the
weight and then screwed them down to clamp onto the top and bottom of the knuckles.





There is no stress on the weights, so it doesn't need much to keep them in place.
I used a blue marker to coat the weights and, installed the wheels and ran the truck for a min. The marker was to test to see if the wheels were rubbing on the weights. And there was a little rub on both weights. I used my Dremel to clearance the weights and tested again, with no rubbing marks! I kind of like the looks of the blue on the polished brass, so I'm leaving them like that!
The rears will only need one setscrew to keep them in place, and will drill them today.

Also ordered some of these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ZNTER-900mw....c100667.m2042

Thanks for the heads up Crawling SF.

Thanks for looking,
Ernie

[CODYBOY]

Just a little update on my truck. When I removed the shocks to add grease to them I decided I wanted to lower my COG a little. So I made two changes, first I added a 1/8" limiting spacer under the piston/screw. Next I like to run all my rigs with a little droop in them, so why would my 24th scale be any different, so I cut 2 coils off of each spring. The three changes to the shocks and my axle weights really improved how it handles!
All for now,
Ernie

[NevetsG]

I used lead strips for aquarium plant weights at a cost of about $0.12 - $0.40 for each wheel (I had extras from our plants). They can be used as skid plates, and you can add weight to the axles.

I used an M10 washer to shape and fit the strips into the hub (didn't use the washer to add weight), then added some CA glue to keep them in place. I also added a 1.5g strip to the axle, under each shock mount, and trimmed it with a hobby knife to clear the steering rod. You can see by the scale I added about 6g per corner (including the axle strips), and I may add some strips to encase the diff for another 3g per axle.




Here are some examples, or you could go to the pet store to find the lead strips there.

https://www.amazon.com/Supa-Big-10-P.../dp/B003NF7IV8

https://www.amazon.com/Anchors-Weigh.../dp/B072LQLLGF

[AK KRAWLER]

Very ingenious idea!!!
Thanks for sharing.

[CrawlingSF]

Ah nice. Might install some lead strips on the to work dual purpose as protection as skid plates.

Or maybe even in the tires. Would it be annoying to dismount and reglue?

[TheCourier]

Very cool idea. Ive been using thick solder wrapped around the inside of the tire to give a little extra weight and add some support for the tires if your not using foams. Will definitely look into lead strips.

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[CODYBOY]

Originally Posted by TheCourier

Very cool idea. Ive been using thick solder wrapped around the inside of the tire to give a little extra weight and add some support for the tires if your not using foams. Will definitely look into lead strips.

Sent from my Z982 using Tapatalk

It is a good idea! One thought is to go to the fishing department at Walmart, or most big box stores that have fishing supplies and look for spools of line weight. It comes in different diameter. You could flatten it in a vise or with a block and hammer.
Ernie

[HumboldtEF]

Nice work Ernie! I knew you'd get right to work on making these better

I kind of though you took a torch to the brass for the color but thats a steel or titanium thing.

[NevetsG]

Originally Posted by TheCourier

Very cool idea. Ive been using thick solder wrapped around the inside of the tire to give a little extra weight and add some support for the tires if your not using foams. Will definitely look into lead strips.

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That is what I wanted to do, but I can't find replacements. So I didn't want to risk messing up the tires. Once replacements are available I'll grab a set and then I can put more weight then I need or more than the driveline can handle.

I was also going to use solder, but it isn't as dense as pure lead.

[TheCourier]

Originally Posted by NevetsG

That is what I wanted to do, but I can't find replacements. So I didn't want to risk messing up the tires. Once replacements are available I'll grab a set and then I can put more weight then I need or more than the driveline can handle.

This is what mine look like, I don't have them glued and they seem to be ok. I'm waiting on my beadlocks. No telling when those will show up.

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[HumboldtEF]

I dont own one but I've seen and felt the tires and I have to wonder whats out there as far as an upgrade? Reason being is the tread is very shallow, maybe they work well enough but I would assume a larger lug/spacing would be beneficial. The size seems much smaller than the SCX24 and RC4WD offerings though maybe the smaller SCX24 tires from the C10 might fit?

I also wonder if theres enough meat to do a little cutting on the stock tires?

[TheCourier]

I don't own one either but i know they look pretty scale to the truck. The rc4wd 1.0 tires are mostly much smaller than the factory scx24 tires. Would look more scale on a smaller rig honestly. Pic is of scx24 deadbolt wheel an tire on left and the rc4wd super swamper tires on the factory scx24 C10 pu

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[Brake Weight]

Brass or copper wire wrapped around the wheels is nearly the same weight as solder and cheaper.

[TheCourier]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Brass or copper wire wrapped around the wheels is nearly the same weight as solder and cheaper.

I agree. Just used what I had. I like how thick and plyable the solder is. Although going with copper or brass wire you could get more weight for sure

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[NevetsG]

Originally Posted by TheCourier

I agree. Just used what I had. I like how thick and plyable the solder is. Although going with copper or brass wire you could get more weight for sure

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FYI, lead is more dense at 11.3g/cm3, solder is 8.6, copper is 8.9, and brass is 8.7. So considering how little space we have to work with we can get the most weight using lead.

[Brake Weight]

Originally Posted by NevetsG

FYI, lead is more dense at 11.3g/cm3, solder is 8.6, copper is 8.9, and brass is 8.7. So considering how little space we have to work with we can get the most weight using lead.

Got a lead on some lead wire?