Jato the Deadbolt - SCX24 Edition

[KulaHI]

About the HR shocks, you’ll want to face the flanged side outboard. The o-rings don’t really do a good job of holding the ball ends in place. Almost lost one when it popped off.


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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Yeah, the speed selector is cool! I mainly stay in the medium setting. I agree on the low speed. It doesn't have enough oomph to pull itself over anything.

I noticed on IG that you mentioned that you put grease in your shocks. I tried putting marine grease in mine and I had one hell of a mess. Most of the grease just oozed out the bottom. I ended up getting the Hot Racing shocks. They seem to be nice and I have had no problems with them so far. And they come with two different sets of springs.

Also, the HR aluminum servo mount is a nice piece to have too. I have zero slop in the steering now.

I haven't driven mine since adding grease to the shocks, you know, because of the whole magic smoke incident. The grease may end up oozing out.

Are the HR shocks oil filled?

Thanks for the tip on the servo mount! Will it fit the Emax servo the people are using?

Also, I didn't know you could get brass knuckles for this truck! As long as they aren't too sloppy they look like a must buy.

[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I haven't driven mine since adding grease to the shocks, you know, because of the whole magic smoke incident. The grease may end up oozing out.

Are the HR shocks oil filled?

Thanks for the tip on the servo mount! Will it fit the Emax servo the people are using?

Also, I didn't know you could get brass knuckles for this truck! As long as they aren't too sloppy they look like a must buy.

Haha! Magic smoke is not good!

The HR shocks are listed as: friction dampened, requiring only a partial filling of silicone fluid. I just added a little oil inside to keep them sliding free.

Not sure about the Emax servo. I'm still running the stock servo for now. But I'm sure like most RTR servos, mine will eventually need replaced.

The HR brass knuckles are machined well. I have zero slop in them or the steering. The only slop I have in the truck is the cheap tiny plastic ball ends in the links. The whole axle can shift side to side.

Originally Posted by KulaHI

About the HR shocks, you’ll want to face the flanged side outboard. The o-rings don’t really do a good job of holding the ball ends in place. Almost lost one when it popped off.


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Nice tip! Thanks!

I put the flange on the inside on mine. I didn't even think about them popping off. I wouldn't want to lose one of those microscopic o-rings. I'll be turning them around soon!

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by KulaHI

About the HR shocks, you’ll want to face the flanged side outboard. The o-rings don’t really do a good job of holding the ball ends in place. Almost lost one when it popped off.


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You must have posted while I was replying to the previous comments. Thank you for the tip.

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Haha! Magic smoke is not good!

The HR shocks are listed as: friction dampened, requiring only a partial filling of silicone fluid. I just added a little oil inside to keep them sliding free.

Not sure about the Emax servo. I'm still running the stock servo for now. But I'm sure like most RTR servos, mine will eventually need replaced.

The HR brass knuckles are machined well. I have zero slop in them or the steering. The only slop I have in the truck is the cheap tiny plastic ball ends in the links. The whole axle can shift side to side.

Nice tip! Thanks!

I put the flange on the inside on mine. I didn't even think about them popping off. I wouldn't want to lose one of those microscopic o-rings. I'll be turning them around soon!

Hmm are the HR shocks at least better and less boingy? They offer at least some damping, right?

It's interesting that the HR brass wheel rings are 9g whereas the knuckles are only 8g.

Yeah tiny rod and balls always have lots of slop in them unless both parts are made perfectly with super tight tolerances and that's just not possible on inexpensive rigs like these SCX24's.

[B-MOW71]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

You must have posted while I was replying to the previous comments. Thank you for the tip.




Hmm are the HR shocks at least better and less boingy? They offer at least some damping, right?

It's interesting that the HR brass wheel rings are 9g whereas the knuckles are only 8g.

Yeah tiny rod and balls always have lots of slop in them unless both parts are made perfectly with super tight tolerances and that's just not possible on inexpensive rigs like these SCX24's.

I wouldn't say less boingy! Well, maybe a little! I'm using the stiffer silver springs that came with them instead of the weaker black that also come with them. I think it rides better than the stock shocks, but this rig is so light that I'm not sure if complete oil filled shocks would even work or flex enough.

I mainly bought the HR shocks for one, I hate Axial plastic garbage shocks (and these seem to be just as bad as their big brother), and two, these are all aluminum and look good! Even with the little bit of lube, they are smooth and built pretty good for being as small as they are.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

I wouldn't say less boingy! Well, maybe a little! I'm using the stiffer silver springs that came with them instead of the weaker black that also come with them. I think it rides better than the stock shocks, but this rig is so light that I'm not sure if complete oil filled shocks would even work or flex enough.

I mainly bought the HR shocks for one, I hate Axial plastic garbage shocks (and these seem to be just as bad as their big brother), and two, these are all aluminum and look good! Even with the little bit of lube, they are smooth and built pretty good for being as small as they are.

They do look good! I think I'll hold off on the shocks for now, but thank you for the feedback.

[JatoTheRipper]

As the great Britney Spears once said, "Oops! I did it again." No, I didn't play with your heart. I just bought more wheels and tires.

The micro wheels and tars are sold out everywhere. There are scalpers asking $40+ for $10 tires, but I wasn't biting. So I waited for them to come back in stock and I grabbed both the RC4WD MT/R and Scrambler tires.

The wheels are from eBay and they cost almost as much as the truck itself.




I give RC4WD a lot of crap and I think they deserve most of it, but sometimes they nail tires. Look at the molded in details of this little bugger!




The wheels are nice. I wish they would have been polished or tumbled, but they are nicely machined.

The bead of the tires fits tightly into the slot on the wheels. It can be a pain to get the tires seated properly, but that ensure they won't come off.

After assembling these wheels I realized how spoiled we are today with most wheels. This old school beadlock mounting style is a pain. This is especially true because I had to do the one wheel twice since I installed the tire incorrectly. MT/R's are a very odd directional, but not symmetrical from side to side tire.




The MT/R tires are the newest X2S³ compound and the Scramblers are the previous X2SS compound. I decided to go with the MT/R's because the Scramblers are massive. Eventually I got curious and pulled one of the Scramblers out of the package. Despite being the older X2SS compound, they feel much better than the MT/R's. They are soft and sticky whereas the X2S³ compound isn't sticky at all and it feels kind of gritty or grainy.

By this time I already had two or three MT/R's so I wasn't removing them. Plus, with the Scramblers you probably have lots of body rub, even on the Deadbolt, because of their massive size.




The Scramblers are set in front of the stock, rear tire which is installed so perspective comes into play here, but you can still see how large they would be on the truck.




And here they are mounted up. I think it looks pretty bad ass! Shiny wheels are faster than black wheels.

I do with the MT/R tires were larger - somewhere in between stock and the Scramblers. As they sit, they are nearly identical to the stock Nitto tires in OD, but they are slightly wider than stock.

[Topher Builds]

Love those new wheels and tires!

[Natedog]

Looking good, the MTRs are much more size appropriate.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Topher Builds

Love those new wheels and tires!

Originally Posted by Natedog

Looking good, the MTRs are much more size appropriate.

Thanks guys!

[TheCourier]

I love the stance, I'm just putting on the wagons beadlocks. They are terrible to assemble. Also these aren't even the tire that's going to be permanently on there. Lol

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[PCHILNSF]

Nice crawler. I bought the same Goodyear Wrangler tires and how do you know which way they go on?

[B-MOW71]

Man, those little MT/R's with them wheels look awesome on there! It really changes the look for the better!

I've been having a hard time trying to decide on which tires to get for mine. You just made my decision for me! Thanks!

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by TheCourier

I love the stance, I'm just putting on the wagons beadlocks. They are terrible to assemble. Also these aren't even the tire that's going to be permanently on there. Lol

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I'd have a seat of the wagon wheels if they were ever in stock. They look great. It's a bummer to hear that they're difficult to mount. That makes them just like their 1.9 wagon wheels.

Originally Posted by PCHILNSF

Nice crawler. I bought the same Goodyear Wrangler tires and how do you know which way they go on?

Thank you. If you look online you get conflicting information. It appears the tighter spaced lugs go on the inside of the truck.

Originally Posted by B-MOW71

Man, those little MT/R's with them wheels look awesome on there! It really changes the look for the better!

I've been having a hard time trying to decide on which tires to get for mine. You just made my decision for me! Thanks!

Thank you!

[JatoTheRipper]

Small update. The replacement ESC/receiver unit came in as well as some standard tools so I can ditch the included L-wrench. I don't use SAE drivers often and for most of the sizes I have MIP, but not the .050" required for this truck. I found this Turnigy V2 set for not much more than a single MIP driver so I gambled. The tips are supposed to be spring steel and reviews are pretty positive. If worse comes to worse I can replace the tips and I'll still have some nice, aluminum handles. The flashlight was "free" from Olight for $5 shipping. Not really related to this thread.




And they are very nice handles. I'm really satisfied for $20.




First up, I uncased the unit to cut the weight in half, as detailed above.




I got curious about the purpose of this jumper. I was thinking it was to somehow adjust the drag brake, which wouldn't matter for this rig since it has worm gears, but really it's to control the mode. If you remove the jumper the reverse becomes double tap which you obviously don't want on a crawler.




And then I just stacked two or three pieces of servo tape and stuck the ESC/RX to the stock location. I had to stack the tape because some of the electrical components on the board stuck lower than a single piece of tape.

[Natedog]

NIce weight reduction by decasing the rx/esc, but I'd conformal coat it at least. Water, plus I've seen tiny iron bearing dusty dirt gather on pcbs around the components and cause problems. A lexan case would be sweet.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Natedog

NIce weight reduction by decasing the rx/esc, but I'd conformal coat it at least. Water, plus I've seen tiny iron bearing dusty dirt gather on pcbs around the components and cause problems. A lexan case would be sweet.

Mine is indoor so it shouldn't get wet. You have an interesting point about metallic dust though!

[tjohanne]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Well if you want one you're going to have to find one. They are out of stock everywhere and the preorders sell out. Tons of demand and not much supply right now. So if and when you decide you want one for sure, place a preorder ASAP.

Thanks for the feedback
My local hobby store just now got some in stock. Which one is most recommended, Deadbolt, Jeep or Chevy?
Deadbolt or Chevy are available. Hmm..


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[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by tjohanne

Thanks for the feedback
My local hobby store just now got some in stock. Which one is most recommended, Deadbolt, Jeep or Chevy?
Deadbolt or Chevy are available. Hmm..


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I never received the C10!