Ynad's TRX4M + mods. Updated 5/03 winch, lift, bumper, hitch, sway bsrs

[Gramps]

Nice a real receiver hitch.

[JimK]

Great looking rig. I really like all the mods you've done. The wheels and tires look excellent and really fill out the wheel wells nicely. I just ordered a set off Amazon Canada...lol

[Ynad]

Thank you guys for the comments.
One more mod. No pictures but it's simple. Spinbrush motor. Cheap 180 motor SH180ff.
Seems faster than the stock normal gears with the crawl gears.

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[iholmes]

Truck looks fantastic, I like all the extra detail you've put into it. Have you noticed it being top heavy at all?
That servo horn lift mod is very clever, but do you have any issue with them coming loose? Was it difficult to get them leveled from side to side?

I love what you did with the trailer hitch as well, I may need to borrow that idea!

[Ynad]

Thank you. It runs as good as it looks after mods.
It's not top heavy anymore. Lots of plastic removed from the back and top more than 20g. Wheels, tires are heavy. Brass knuckles and c hubs. Aluminum steering rod and metal front bumper. Electronics moved forward and added some weight low in form of a winch. Weight distribution right now is bottom front biased. Steering link was a straight bolt on to the regular horn with no tension or binding. Spacer can be chosen at whatever height you prefer.
But the best thing is the motor swap and the crawl gears.

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[sji-trx4]

I see that you appear to have .Y-Cables connected to both lighting ports on the ESC, is that correct? I'm thinking of adding a light bar to one of our TRX4Ms and running it via a Y-Cable from the "bumper lights" port. Any issues with that?

[Ynad]

Only the bumper lights can be split with the y connector without any issues. The light kit needs to have its own socket otherwise will stop functioning properly.

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[Ynad]

One more fun mod. Sway bars for the rear.
CD frame is awesome, you can get all the articulation you need. But the more you move shocks back the less lateral support they get. Spring rates change too. With the stock options hardest springs were too stiff for the weight. With the new placement they are almost too soft. With the shocks mounted back the is a lot of the side to side movement. My first mod was a couple of rubber bans in a crisscross placement. Works great. But it didn't look too good.
Now parts bin to the rescue. Light bar mounts for 1/10, steering links from mini-z, my previous lift mod, few nuts and bolts and its done. Replica of the big one. Fun fact the hardest springs are back to their normal rate, too stiff. Will still experiment with the springs but I think shocks pistons need a bigger hole.

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[JimK]

Very nice! I can see a rear sway bar being very useful on these little Defenders. Great idea.

[Ynad]

Thank you for the comment.

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[Chicken Man]

Hi Ynad, I feel like I am missing something here - how is one side linked to the other? the actual "sway bar" component?
Maybe a picture from the top will show it better?

[Ynad]

A bit late with the response. ..
The black part connected to the free moving extension at the top and the shock mount at the bottom. The shock mount is the plastic servo horn attached to the original mount placement. This provided 5mm or so lift and placed shock further back at the bottom. I would rather lift from the bottom then the top to better center of gravity(I think).
So far after testing it proves to stabilize the axle movement laterally and returned springs to their original rates somehow. Torque twist is still there but at a very minimal in comparison to stock. Movement is free and easy, reacts quick. On the fast run it bounces nicely. Obvious increased stability on the rocks.

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[Ynad]

Originally Posted by Chicken Man

Hi Ynad, I feel like I am missing something here - how is one side linked to the other? the actual "sway bar" component?
Maybe a picture from the top will show it better?

Hey man, just posted some explanation. ^^^

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[Chicken Man]

Originally Posted by Ynad

Hey man, just posted some explanation. ^^^

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Interesting, so not a sway/anti-roll bar but still a change in geometry and spring rates etc. It might be because the axle is held more parallel/perpendicular (depending on reference) to the chassis that this is effective.

Whatever works for you imo, this hobby is best when using spare parts to put an idea on your rig.