RTR AX10 questions

[Tbone]

I'm thinking of the rtr too but now I'll have to price out the upgrades and see which to do.

The shocks and ride height appear to be different on the rtr vs the artr, is this just an adjustment?

[Tbone]

Can anyone tell me how much run time to expect out of a truck like this? I can't afford lipos but maybe some decent nimh?

[fernando]

I went with the AX10 ARTR and I made the right choice. I had the chance to put the upgades that I wanted from the start onto my rig. When you buy a AX10 RTR it will cost you more in the long run, because you will swap all that stock stuff out in order to push your rig to the limits of its performance. If you just want to crawl with no extra money spent on comp ready performance go with the AX10 RTR.

[gottorque]

if you went with an ax10 artr , you could use your tq3 tx/rx combo, and the steering servo from your tmaxx and buy an inexpensive motor and a cheap reversing esc . It will get you started and be able to get the truck running but when you get a better understanding of the sport you can upgrade accordingly

[Tbone]

I think it's going to be a RTR for me. Just checked with the LHS and there's a RTR and RTC versions. Both are ready to go but the RTC has a 55 turn motor and the suspension sits lower. The shocks appear different also.

I think the RTR has a 27 turn motor. I think it would make a better basher than the RTC which is geared more towards crawling.

[Goose19]

Originally Posted by Tbone

Can anyone tell me how much run time to expect out of a truck like this? I can't afford lipos but maybe some decent nimh?

i use aircraft lipo batteries, similar to this; http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWRD6&P=7
and a cheapo charger similar to this;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZZ3&P=V

to run my ax-10. the little lipos are more than enough power for crawling, and the run time varies on your mAh on your battery. the more mAh, the more money, usually.

also the lipo's are lighter than thier nicd or nmhd counterparts, which is handy if you plan on using the stock ax-10 battery mount.

just make sure you charge it correctly, and unplug it when not in use! as i have learned my $70 lipo lesson!

[Tbone]

Hey Goose,
How do you like those lipos? It seems pretty reasonably priced, might go lipo instead of nimh for that price.

What are your run and charging times like with that charger/batt combo?

[bookum]

Hey guys, I went with the ax10 RTR and was very pleased, The best thing i did was put the locker in the front, very easy to do. changed its crawling ability 100% and did not really afect the bashing aspect. the plastic links and steering are ok at best. never broke any but boy do they bend..... I ugraded to the red color pack, awsome but have since swaped out the rear bent arms for the straight arms for my scx conversion. I have played with some motor options, from venom 55 to a venom 19t and then my old stock motor from my rc10t3. I am back to the stock 27t that came with it for now with the 20t pinion seems to be a good blend of crawl and bash. my shocks did soften up after about 10 packs of use. As for run time I am runing 3000 venom packs and i get a good 30-35 min. I have a track and off road/crawl area in my back yard, and as you would expect the more track time the faster the battery runs out...the more off road/crawl the longer it lasts.
Hope some of this will help anyone who needs a little push. If i had to start over agian I would get the scx10 and never look back

[Marko]

Hello, my friend has an ax-10 scorpion rtr and he is currently running 6-cell 1500mah nicd battery. They last about 35 min and I guess they are pretty reliable batteries. The more mah the better run time and power you have. If you have any questions just send me a private message.

[Tbone]

Thanks for the info Bookum.
I like the idea that the rtr can be a good basher also. So is the 27t stock motor your favorite? How did it handle the 19t motor? I suspect that it won't handle very well at high speeds.

I'm still looking to find out if I could put bigger tires on that truck. Not huge clodbuster tires but definately something bigger than stock?

The local hobby shop showed me a tire/wheel combo that looked great but then I found out they wouldn't fit.

I guess I'd still like a clod buster but this ax10 caught my attention and is so much better out of the box.

Sorry for the rambling

[bookum]

the 27t is byfar the most useable, (speed and torque). the 19t well it spent more time on it's side and on its cage (proline cgr blazer). I am planing on trying the same motor that bender put in the axial scx10 project.(after I finish converting mine to an scx with proline 80's chevy truck body). I think its a 12t slash motor???? the ax10 is top heavy and doesn't high speed corner very well. ( its a crawler) I enjoy more trail and track type driving. But the bueaty with the ax10 is it easly converts to what ever style you perfer. As for your tire ? I usually try to stay close to same size that came with kits ( to avoid extra stress on drive train ) but for crawling you should be free to go as big as the rocks will allow... good luck dude.

[Tbone]

Thanks for the info.

The AX looks like the best thing to be a crawler/basher, I just need to decide which I want more.

Just looked at the Traxxas summit and it's pretty impressive though a bit pricey.

[river rat]

The kit is the way to go, it is less expensive, plus you get all the stuff i had to buy for my RTR.
you will be better off, my drag link bent under a load, the suspension links bent out, or in. Etc,etc.
If i could do it again, i would go with the kit
George

[<<<ash>>>]

is a axial rtr something that is meant to be fragile? parts keep falling off and breaking!!!
1. screws and nunts keep falling even after i thitened them
2.the shafts keep falling off the transmission
3.body clip fell off when i was driving and got lost
4.the steering servo saver broke
5.the electronics are cheap and it keeps glitching
what can i do to tun this into a basher that can still crawl a little like what it is meant to be. it seems like everything is going to break.
what should i do.


i spent 450 Australian dollars on this thing

[Madkoifish]

#1 thread lock them if its metal on metal, metal in plastic don't strip the plastic
#2 are the yokes falling off or is it the shaft twisting off, I haven't seen anything on a ax do this unless the set screw backed off and isn't tightened and thread locked. (my ARTR everything was so thread locked I had problems taking screws out, had to drill one setscrew out wen putting MIPS in) If the shafts are popping off the X then don't bind the transmission, you'll have to replace the parts when the universal parts pop out repeatedly.
#3 life of a RC car body clips always fall off.
#4 I don't use one so I don't know about the AX parts but what i saw of them before those parts went into my parts bin they were composite fiber so you really had to bash them, replace it with a delrin/nylon saver or go with a alum horn (beware though you'll strip the gears I think the rtr servo is a nylon gear while the RTC is metal? (RTC servo was quoted as 100oz metal servo on the blog)
#5 RTR electronics, heh AM will glitch. I am having problems with my OLD back in the day top tier FM radio. There is so much radio noise these days that anything not FM with pcm or some regulator or 2.4ghz you have to live with glitch, to help it solder on caps to the motor twist your motor leads and run the antennae and RX wires away from the ESC any wires coming out of the ESC and away from the motor and it's wires.


Other posts,
that Traxxas you might be able to use servos and the radio TX and RX, just get a Tekin FXR pack or similar motor ESC combo. (just be aware some req soldering) Hell with the ARTR worries you have, some hobby stores will do installs for a fee. Looked the servo up;
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXF84
if it is a 2055 itll have 80oz, pushing it but it might work. (use the tmaxx steering servo) if it isn't put the model number into the search and scroll down or google. I recommend at least 140oz, but I see others get by with less. If you weight your tyres you'll need a stronger servo.

ARTR has more than just alum links, better lockers, bracing on the suspension shafts, better tyres with mem foam, properly set up shocks(big whoop spacers inside), well better than the rtr. RTC has threaded body shocks and I think a thicker shaft,(yup 3.5mm vs 3mm) The RTC is the most recent version of the AX. It does look like they updated the lockers(sintered) on all the trucks. it looks like the kit retains the old Aluminum lockers. (have been told this is a weak spot) KIT too retains the old rear axle, this will allow rear steer with just some linkage and a servo, rest of the ax line have a straight axle so those will need Cs arms drive axles and linkages. RTR adds a extra pinion. (20t & 14t), RTC has different plastic links to the RTR and both have a slipper clutch vs the Kit or ARTR.

Id recommend the Kit ARTR or RTC over the RTR in that order. ARTR I replaced the steering knuckles right off, I also replaced all the ball links. The stockers are plastic, not sure if the RTR or RTC are the same way. I also dumped the stock springs, upper battery mount (sling it between the upper plate and the upper links.) Also the RTR and RTC lack any "bracing" in the chassis. It only has the plastic mount things that hold the battery tray up, so there will be a bunch of chassis flex up on the shock mounts. My ARTR chassis had tweak even with bracing I can just imagine how bent up RTR and RTC chassis are after a few runs.

The RTR electronics like others have said are often tossed. It is typical of all RTR the radios suck. It is a am unit probably on 27mhz with a lowball ESC and who knows motor. I wouldn't make my decisions based on the motor. 19~40$ and you can replace it with something. All of the Axial motors are bushed closed endbell motors. The ESC lacks instant reverse on the RTR, the RTC they wired it backwards to provide instant reverse.

Compare all the models and what each comes with. Weigh your options. That traxxas gear if your gonna junk the poor t-maxx will give you a foot ahead in some ways. (saving you 150$ depending on what you use) Good servo like a hitec 5645 with 164oz@6v metal gears bbs for about 50$ (got mine a while back for 45) Some run 645s with about 110oz I think those are 35$

Being a basher instead of comp doesn't it wont break as quick. More often bashers are much more abusive to the rigs. EXP electronics and motors. Comps rarely spend 5 hours on the rocks non stop multiple times a week


Wheels and tyres, any 2.2 tyre will fit. As for rims/wheels I would stick with crawler specific parts, since the hex area on some rims is too thin or the plastics are to "rubbery" and allow flex in the bead or hex area resulting in bent up rims or stripped hexes. The Alum hexes on the AX help avoid this but this was a common hell of the pre aftermarket days IE 2005 and such. any 12mm hex wheel will fit BUT you have to keep in mind things like offset, the distance from the center of the rim and where your hubs bolt to them. This can cause linkage/shock etc rub, even rim width will affect this. Taller tyres things like the HB rovers will give you height, more with say the stock foam and by doing the freezer inflation method. I'm running these with 2 stage foam from proline and stuffed in the freezer while open to create a pressure inside then quickly sealing them up. It sorta inflates them (bad side is goat heads and weeds of the like will put flats in em.) But in the end things like this are heavily dependent on the rocks/terrain you run on. In Auburn where I got the crawler the rovers with 2stage and inflation were the ticket with a non dig rig. (tested this I was stubborn and vented my rims and watched as a exact copy of my rig at that time kept a line while mine the ass end kept sliding out. Added air and the more I had the better the rear followed my line. Go fig. On rubble here in Seattle though they seem to make little difference.

GL guys and read read and read some more lol.
Oh another purchase no one mentions.
BUY QUALITY TOOLS do not rely on those aluminum cross tools or crappy bent allen wrenches or generic phillips (really toss all the slotted and phillips screws ppl) Dynamite sells a decent allen kit for 19$ get the metric for the AX crawlers. RTR RTC ARTR whatever you'll end up wrenching on your rig sooner or later.

and one book later
ARTR manual
KIT manual
RTR manual
RTC manual, sorry I couldn't find a manual for this one



MKF-

[Tbone]

Thanks for all the info MKF.
I see you're in Seattle, I'm in BC. Can you recommend any good hobby shops in the bellingham to seattle area? I'd like to compare the prices here to nearby shops in the US

[<<<ash>>>]

thankz Madkoifish
now can u guys help me with my first upgrades i want to turn it in to a a good basher and a pretty good crawlers. i want to make it strong and last long
with the shaft, the yoke keeps falling of the transmission because the set screw keeps loosening

[RustlerHustler]

Originally Posted by <<<ash>>>

thankz Madkoifish
now can u guys help me with my first upgrades i want to turn it in to a a good basher and a pretty good crawlers. i want to make it strong and last long
with the shaft, the yoke keeps falling of the transmission because the set screw keeps loosening

Replace the tires, vent and weight the rims, and try getting the battery off the top (either on the upper links or on the axel).

As for the yokes but some blue thread lock on the set screw and snug that think up. Let it dry/set for a few and then you should be good to go.