Rear Wheel Torque Twist

[BMFOTP]

Originally Posted by XPLORx4

The optional gearsets change the final drive ratios. If the front ratio is lower numerically than the rear, the front wheels will rotate faster than the rear, which can help decrease rear wheel "push" when approaching and climbing steep obstacles. If the front ratio is higher numerically than the rear, then the front wheels will rotate slower than the rear. (However, I'm not really sure how that would be an advantage. Here's 5 pages of posts that you can read to learn more.)

thanks for the hyperlink. i will get started reading the information this weekend

[C-MuRdaA]

Originally Posted by soundcolor

Which is the short way of saying the motor turns the axles slower, thus creating less immediate torque.

I thought elecrtic motors put forth 100% of their torque all the time.

[soundcolor]

No, electric motors produce their maximum amount of torque at the moment full power is applied (contrary to popluar belief they dont make the most torque at 0 rpm because they aren't spinning and no power is being applied.) But as their RPM's increase the torque tappers off, which is why you might be able to get a little wheelspin when you go full throttle from a dead stop, but cant do it when you are already moving.

I guess the best way of explaining it is, when you lightly press the throttle on your radio, the truck slowly, and smoothly starts moving. If you hammer it tho, the truck leaps off the line. What you are doing when you slowly apply the throttle is stretchin out the time it takes for that motor to achieve full torque and begin moving the vehicle because you are giving it less power. When you go all out tho, you are sending full power to the motor and the motor immediatly spins up, and creates that torque immediatly. So by changing the gearing you can achieve the same thing. If you take two identical motors and give one of them 1.5 volts and one 12 volts which is going to make more torque, the one with more power going to it. More power means more torque. While higher gearing makes the motor spin faster thus creating its torque faster, while lower gearing means the motor is spinning slower and takes longer to achieve that torque.

hope that helped.

[gunnar]

The best thing so far I've tried is running an asymetrical upper link set up in the rear. This reduced the TT around 50 percent. I have just installed the 43/13 Axial gearset in the rear axle, and early tests indicate that this also has helped reduce it further. My shocks are set the same on both sides, meaning same springs and oil.

[treday619]

Originally Posted by BMFOTP

thanks for the hyperlink. i will get started reading the information this weekend

36/14 in the front

43/13 in the rear

You really do not want to change out both as per the thread on the optional gear ratio. It works better if you keep on 1 stock gear set whether it is front or rear

[BMFOTP]

Thanks for the info concerning gear ratio and what changing gearing would do for my crawler.

[Pdog7]

Got torque twist....get one of these Two birds, one stone....shitty dig and torque twist eliminated I beat my head against a wall trying to massage my dig system before every comp to no avail. Torque twist can never be totally eliminated, unless you get a MOA. Ditching the Axial and going Berg was the best thing I have done yet in this hobby.

[BMFOTP]

I am actually looking at MOAs. I have been reading the Enberg thread. I have started looking at some MOA kits, parts and accessories. The only problem is that I will be a newbie. I will have to go through the same learning curve. My plan is to get the shafty to a point where it will perform decent when I drive it to give me something to do until I learn more about the MOAs. Once I find out which way to go with a MOA I will take the plunge and buy one.

Anyone have any suggestions on what is a good starting point for MOAs?

Planning on getting my start the first of the month

[yurbuddychris]

Originally Posted by paintballer9876

Pick of the links and the crawler its self would help, my axial has 4 link fornt and rear and stiffer springs on the rear shocks, and there is almost no torque twist.

Is 4 link w/ stiff susp a better design to prevent TT or do you also have some sort of transmission modification. I'm pretty new to all this and I building a custom chassis, thought this would be a good time to address this issue. Sorry if I'm stealing your thread, but I thought this question was right along with the original post. Thanks!

[Pdog7]

Originally Posted by yurbuddychris

Is 4 link w/ stiff susp a better design to prevent TT or do you also have some sort of transmission modification. I'm pretty new to all this and I building a custom chassis, thought this would be a good time to address this issue. Sorry if I'm stealing your thread, but I thought this question was right along with the original post. Thanks!

No..you do not need a stiff suspension with a 4 link. The 4 link itself will reduce TT. You want articulation and with stiff springs you loose articulation in your suspension. No transmission modification is needed to reduce torque twist. Some say mirroring the tranny will help by moving the weight of the motor to the passenger side of the truck thereby mildly reducing torque twist. In my opinion the effect of this is minimal at best. If you get a dig you will need to mirror the tranny anyway.

[yurbuddychris]

That all makes perfect since actually, Thanks!

[J-Rock]

I run the Losi Crawler Shocks with a green spring on the right rear and I have never had a problem. I have yet to try the four link plate with one over and one under, I hear that is a great way to stop all of that.

[BMFOTP]

Originally Posted by J-Rock

I run the Losi Crawler Shocks with a green spring on the right rear and I have never had a problem. I have yet to try the four link plate with one over and one under, I hear that is a great way to stop all of that.

What are the color of your other 3 shocks? What level is the green shock (soft, medium, hard or something different?) What level of oil do you use and in which shock?

Thanks for the reminder of moving one of the rear upper links to the top position and the other to the bottom position. Now I just have to find out which one I need to move

I have made some changes to my crawler and will post some pics later today. I am even going to try and post a short video of what is going on with my crawler.