What to get for maintenance?

[Nate-ast]

I am going to get a scx10 deadbolt soon and I'm wondering what other stuff I'll need to get to maintain it.. any thoughts?

[meatmonkey]

A quality set of allen drivers will help save your sanity and wrists over the long run.

Bearings and rod ends are common wear items that are cheap to keep on hand.

Other than that, it doesn't take much to keep the truck in working order.

[Nate-ast]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

A quality set of allen drivers will help save your sanity and wrists over the long run.

Bearings and rod ends are common wear items that are cheap to keep on hand.

Other than that, it doesn't take much to keep the truck in working order.

OK thanks for the advice. For a battery I am looking at a gens ace 4000mah ROAR approved hard case liop.. is this to much for the trails??

[Majestic9C1]

I have 5000 2S lipo's in my Deadbolt and Poison Spyder...


get a set of allen wrenches, some shock oil, zipties and it probably wouldnt hurt to carry the extra parts bags with you when you go out on the trails.

[Nate-ast]

Originally Posted by Majestic9C1

I have 5000 2S lipo's in my Deadbolt and Poison Spyder...


get a set of allen wrenches, some shock oil, zipties and it probably wouldnt hurt to carry the extra parts bags with you when you go out on the trails.

What shock oil should I use for the trails?

[meatmonkey]

There is nothing really wrong with your battery choice. If you share batteries with a go-fast basher than it will be a good choice. If your strictly crawling/trailing you can save weight by running a smaller battery. I'm running Turnigy 40C 2s 2200 soft cases in my SCX10's with brushed motors ranging from 27-35 turns and am still able to achieve about an hour of run time depending on conditions. Another bonus is that the 2200's are cheap, at about $12 each.

Shock oil choice is mostly personal preferance, with most running somewhere between 30 and 70 weight in the stock shocks. I'm running Associated 70 weight for slow speed crawling.

The most important thing to keep your R/C reliable is to torque check the hardware after a day of strenuos playing. Most failures are related to loose hardware. It's kind of a "thing" for the RTR's to develop loose bolts on the trans output halves and the ring gear bolts, so you have been warned. It kinda sucks to have to take apart the axles and trans to double check the factory's job, but if you don't, you'll end up doing it anyway, and dealing with collateral damage.

[Nate-ast]

OK thanks for the warning I will probably look up how to take it apart and tighten up everything when it comes in. This will be my only rc.. The only reason I chose that battery is because I can't find any others in Stock on the sight I'm ordering from (it's having a large sale with some things 50% off)

[Jus]

To start with all you need is good tools and the patience to look over the truck before you run it and after you run it. That way you find the problems at home and can have fun with it when you take it out.

For spare parts you will want a spur gear and pinion gear and start collecting bolts such as what holds the knuckles and c hubs on and wheel nuts, body clips, an old toothbrush to clean off areas of the truck before you work on it... Some kind of oil (NOT wd40) to lube drive shafts and front dogbones/cvds..

I like to run big batteries in my trail trucks if I can fit them. Don't have to carry so many spares and stopping every hour to change them is annoying to me. I tend to spend the entire day out on the trails...

[Nate-ast]

Thanks for all the words of wisdom from everyone who responded to my questions! I will definitely take the advice given.

Went out to look at what kind of trails I had and was happy with what I found. I'm supper excited to get out there.. I should be ordering everything this week.

[Nate-ast]

[Wade]

MiP 1.5,2, and 2.5 hex driver set.......when trying to remove or insert those 1.5 grub screws you will thank your lucky stars you have these....the reason, they fit the screws like a glove and wont wobble or fall off the driver, cheaper drivers will round off and be useless. So there is my .02c

Cheers,
Wade

[DeoreDX]

I have one of these I keep with me while on the trail.

Turnigy Hex Driver set 4 in 1 1.5~ 3.0 (USA Warehouse)

I've also had great luck with this set which is on my workbench. The long shafts have come in quite handy.

Turnigy Long Shaft 4pc Hex driver set (US Warehouse)

Other than the hexes, something to remove wheel nuts and a set of needle nose pliers. With those I can pretty much take apart every RC car I have. I keep the 4 way nut too that came with my Slash in my carry bag as well. Small and gets the job done.

[Nate-ast]

I should be ordering a deadbolt today! I will head over to the hardware store and pick me up some tools as well.

[Dostradamas]

Loctite (blue)
gear grease (waterproof & sticky)
A tub large enough for the whole mud covered truck to fit into is handy for keeping the 1:1 interior cleaner on the way home.
a couple of coarse bristle brushes like a paint brush & a tooth brush (help cleaning debris off a lot.)
A good screwdriver type hex driver for the 4mm wheel hex nuts is lots better than the little 4 way you get with the kit.

[Nate-ast]

Just ordered my deadbolt Today! Should be in next Tuesday! I'll put up some picks of it on my trails when I can.