Redcat Everest 16 build in progress

[Casper Crawler]

I recently started a thread asking if anyone had or new much about the Redcat Everest 16. I got some info back and was asked to write back about it if i decided to go with one. i ordered one the next day.
It took about a week to get here it actually came early than it said it would so that was cool. After opening and charging the battery for about 4 hours it was ready to run. It seemed to do pretty good and ran for about 20 minutes or so, The second time i charged it was about 4 hours again, with in the first 5 minutes my steering servo went out, i was bummed. Customer service was easy to get on the phone with which was a plus and they sent me a new servo no questions asked.
I couldn't wait for the new servo so i tor apart my Stamped 2wd XL5 and mounted crudely the steering servo i pulled the spline off of it and what was under fit the Everest servo arm perfect, (Please correct me if i call something what it is ant i am a newbie and would like to learn).
I was also able to use the XL5 ESC which was cool because it has a built in smart stop so i can run Lipo. I'm defiantly going to have to make some new plates for ESC and Lipo. Other mods i m working on are:

New Tires
Venom 2s Lipo
casters and c-hubs
Shocks
If i can figure out how to 4 link it, 4 link it.
Mini slash 380 motor if it fits (i m going off of what iv seen on the Exceed 16 there seem pretty similar)
Also i am making new side plates,chassis,Servo mount and battery mount out Plexiglas.
I don't know much about whats good and whats not but other than the servo going out it has been a pretty good truck, awesome articulation. Hoping to make it a worthy crawler. Oh ya with the bigger servo the tires turn awesome almost to much they rub on the front links but it turns a lot better and i can wiggle my tires over stuff and know my servo can handle it.
Well sorry for the long thread i hope i could answer a question for another newbie or anyone else and if there is anyone out there that could help me further my build in the right direction parts tips anything, I just want to soak up crawler knowledge. I will post pics of my crawler when it is all put back together.
Casper Crawler

[TacoCrawler]

here's mine... ...altered to be 1/6th scale





I probably should have built a more realistic frame for it...
as it will likely be necessary to install a 360 mtr.
But I was too lazy to bother with that.

as is... a 280 or brushless mtr are likely the only viable options.

[Casper Crawler]

That is awesome!!! Why did you remount your shocks, just for the quad body? I am making new side plates, does it help for crawling having them mounted like that? The 360 motor you said you should have mounted would you have to do any mods to make it fit or does it fit without mods? Also the the motor you mentioned the 280 brushless, if i did only have that option what dose that do for my power vs the stock 260?
Thanks for the post your the first person i have seen post any pics of that truck. I really dig the mods. Makes me want to finish my truck sooner. What battery do you Run?

[Casper Crawler]

Oh ya what makes it a 1/6 scale?

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Casper Crawler

That is awesome!!! Why did you remount your shocks, just for the quad body? I am making new side plates, does it help for crawling having them mounted like that? The 360 motor you said you should have mounted would you have to do any mods to make it fit or does it fit without mods? Also the the motor you mentioned the 280 brushless, if i did only have that option what dose that do for my power vs the stock 260?
Thanks for the post your the first person i have seen post any pics of that truck. I really dig the mods. Makes me want to finish my truck sooner. What battery do you Run?

I changed the shock position to create a more stable chassis/ suspension
and reduced the originally design chassis's unrealistic susp. articulation.
Yep too much flex/articulation isn't good IMO.

The way the shocks are originally mounted
is too progressive and exaggerates the suspension's articulation.

Shock(s) mounted more vertically offer less progression
and allow the shock to work/support better IMO.

A 360 motor has a larger can diameter
and the mounting screw holes do not align properly.
And so... will require extensive effort
in order to make that fit/install properly.

A 280 will be easier, as well, maybe a brushless syst.
But it still might not be a simple bolt on deal.

I'm not real privy to bushless motor/esc systems...
but I do know this...

Brushless does not utilize the same rating that brushed motors do.
Brushless motors tend to be smaller in size, but generally have
an higher/more efficient power output.
They are usually rated by KV ( edit* )
* see Natedog's comment below
or the link, I posted after.


If going brushless... it needs be the sensor type IMO.
if non-sensor... it may cog and be abrupt with on/off throttle control.
An instant on/off throttle purdy much sucks... JMO

But others may know how to better utilize the non-sensor brushless syst's
and know better how to improve it's use/function.
So do your homework if going that direction.

Like I said... I know very little about that.
and probably shouldn't mention it at all.

Originally Posted by Casper Crawler

Oh ya what makes it a 1/6 scale?

It's 1/6 scale because the quad body is.
Which was removed from a cheap 1/6 scale Walmart RC toy.



The 1/16 chassis/susp. mates up well...
and looks to be near correct for this particular 1/6 scale quad body.

So in other words...
this particular combination works for creating an near to scale...
1/6 scale quad.
My goal was to create a partnership with my 1/6 scale Jeep TJ/Nylint build.

I run a 7.4 2s LiPo in replacement of the orig. NiMh included.
weighs less, smaller and has an equal - higher mah capacity.
My LiPo fits into a recess I made under the quad body's seat.



I still utilize the original ESC which has no LiPo voltage cut off...
so I use an external alarm plugged into the battery's balance port.

My cut off alarm cost me $ 3.00 to my door, direct from china.
Purchasing elsewhere might find the cost closer to $ 10. - 15.
But they're probably made in and shipped outta china anyways.
So going direct is likely cheaper. (ebay)

If yer going to run it with a truck body on it...
then it will likely remain an 1/16 - 1/18 scale rig.

If I were to utilize it as such...
I'd likely still change the frame
and shock mounting positions.

---------------

more pics of my 1/6 scale build(s)

[Natedog]

Cool thread, but TacoCrawler's definition for KV is incorrect.
Definition of KILOVOLT: a unit of potential difference equal to 1000 volts.
Kilovolt | Definition of kilovolt by Merriam-Webster

[Casper Crawler]

Again that is rad i like the battery placement. Dumb Question but what is IMO stand for?. I am building more of modded crawler nothing really scale i am making everything i can out of plexygalss so any advise or even a drawing of what you would to for a more comp crawler chassis and side plate that would be rad. I also didn't know you could have to much articulation cause, the Everest has a lot. Also if your ever looking for rc bodies, good-will has a tone of cars with no remotes, i saw that exact quad there the other day.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Cool thread, but TacoCrawler's definition for KV is incorrect.
Definition of KILOVOLT: a unit of potential difference equal to 1000 volts.
Kilovolt | Definition of kilovolt by Merriam-Webster

thanks for clearing up muh fubar
I did say I know next to nothing...
and guess I never cared to look further into that.

All About Brushless Motors – What You Need To Know - Draganfly Innovations Inc.

Originally Posted by Casper Crawler

Again that is rad i like the battery placement. Dumb Question but what is IMO stand for?. I am building more of modded crawler nothing really scale i am making everything i can out of plexygalss so any advise or even a drawing of what you would to for a more comp crawler chassis and side plate that would be rad. I also didn't know you could have to much articulation cause, the Everest has a lot. Also if your ever looking for rc bodies, good-will has a tone of cars with no remotes, i saw that exact quad there the other day.

IMO = in my opinion
JMO = just my opinion

Never made a chassis from lexan or poly
so I can't offer much insight.

I made the saddles using a vise and heat gun for the bends.

btw... a driver figure placed atop a quad is not advantageous
to keeping things upright. As the COG rather sucks.
And so it's mostly for show then anything else.

If true function/balance were critical...
then a gyro would need be installed to compensate the weight atop.

Gyro's are installed on rc motorcycles
and do a good job of counter balancing weight
that resides up high on the chassis.
And keep the chassis upright during use.

I'm not privy in utilizing/installing a gyro...
nor do I really care regarding my particular application.
But for those whom might... a gyro is a possible solution.

[Casper Crawler]

A gyro is a crazy concept. Now i have to spend hours looking into the possibility for that. Thanks for also clearing up my IMO question ha ha, i am a caveman. Hope tomorrow i can get started on the chassis and side plates and have some kinda pics i can posted soon.

[TacoCrawler]

check out this short video..

https://youtu.be/CYHq1_6uOhE

leaning inboard, while cornering, would be swell