Jeep Cherokee grill

[AR Fabrication]

I am starting an SCX10 Cherokee project using proline's XJ body. What I want to do is not use the cheesy grill sticker and buy a real grill or make my own. There is only one little issue... I have never worked with styrene and the grill looks pretty complicated. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[crow-]

Don't know if you're still looking for one, but I got mine from ebay. Try searching for 'scale crawler grill xj'.

[SAVED1]

Originally Posted by Track Rat

I am starting an SCX10 Cherokee project using proline's XJ body. What I want to do is not use the cheesy grill sticker and buy a real grill or make my own. There is only one little issue... I have never worked with styrene and the grill looks pretty complicated. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

if you decide not to make one out of styrene you can usually find some chrome metal grills for this body like the one in the picture below on ebay they cost about $16-18





i have seen them many times on ebay and as of the date of my reply there is one up for sale right now so chances are if you search for them you can find one.

[XxRockStar199xX]

I wished rpphobby or ckrccrawlers carried these, id like to have one for a Comanche build.

[crow-]

Yeah, that's the one I got. And according to the guy on ebay this'll fit a proline comanche body as well.

[58_Willys]

You'd be amazed how well the grill on the lexan body can turn out, with a little patience.

[crow-]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

You'd be amazed how well the grill on the lexan body can turn out, with a little patience.

Awesome!

[cloudswimmer]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

You'd be amazed how well the grill on the lexan body can turn out, with a little patience.

I'm liking those luggage rack bars on the roof, did you make those?

[58_Willys]

Thank you, yes...from styrene. I think they'll take some luggage too, they are beefy and the bowing is partially from being fit in tight to the lexan mount points.

[cloudswimmer]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

Thank you, yes...from styrene. I think they'll take some luggage too, they are beefy and the bowing is partially from being fit in tight to the lexan mount points.

Sweet! If you get a chance I'd love to see some closer shots of the roof

[58_Willys]

Originally Posted by cloudswimmer

Sweet! If you get a chance I'd love to see some closer shots of the roof

Like these...

[badhoopty]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

You'd be amazed how well the grill on the lexan body can turn out, with a little patience.

wow. thats more than patience going on there...

[TrailDawg362]

Nice stuff here, guys . Anyone know if there are light buckets to fit the MJ and where to get them?

[crow-]

Originally Posted by TrailDawg362

Nice stuff here, guys . Anyone know if there are light buckets to fit the MJ and where to get them?

This is the grill mentioned above with Tamiya Wrangler Light buckets (H/J Parts). It's on an XJ but it should fit a MJ as well.

[salmonfacesalad]

I bought the ebay grill as well, it hasn't grown on me yet.

[natskiboy]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

You'd be amazed how well the grill on the lexan body can turn out, with a little patience.

What paint did you use for the body? I like that shade of blue. Any more pics of this rig from the side?

[adbradwell]

What kind of chome paint do you use?

[58_Willys]

The blue is Tamiya PS-59 Dark Blue Met, the silver on the outside is Pactra Indy Silver(for a base coat on the lexan) and Model Master Custom Laquer system Chrysler Bright Platinum Met, to tone it down a little. The number on the can is 28140, and it is a match for paint code PS4.

The chrome is Spazstix Mirror Chrome, and I used Pactra Backing Black, RC304, then a light coat of Outlaw Black. It says to use an Acrylic based backer on the chrome, but I didn't see any bad effects to the chrome paint. I did test it on some leftover lexan before hand, though. This test should always be done, any time you are mixing brands or types of paint. A good rule-of-thumb that I have used over the years with painting models is, start with a good primer, then only paint in this order:
1. Laquers (RC paints, duplicolor, etc)
2. Enamels (Krylon, Rustoleum, Testors, Model Master, etc)
3. Acrylic or water based paints

If you change this order, you can have some pretty ugly results, from wrinkling to pealing. I once sprayed an R34 with True Blue enamel after Tamiya primer, taped off the window areas and sprayed a laquer clear coat. It all looked great until I went to peal the tape off, it took my clear coat in chunks with it.

Key here is to remember what you are using when painting. When you are finshed, if you plan on a repaint in future, take a sharpie and write on the under side of the body, somewhere hidden if you like, the paint used and order used.

It would be sad to find out you sprayed your Jeep Wrangler with Krylon and decide later on that you want to repaint with duplicolor. You have to remove the Krylon completely first, as any traces will leave an ugly trace once the duplicolor is applied. Always test first, and let the layers dry completely.

Sorry for being long winded, hope this helps some folks out.

[MYRCFUN]

Your Jeep looks great. What did you use for the head lights. Lenses, buckets etc...

Thx

[DiKey]

Originally Posted by 58_Willys

The blue is Tamiya PS-59 Dark Blue Met, the silver on the outside is Pactra Indy Silver(for a base coat on the lexan) and Model Master Custom Laquer system Chrysler Bright Platinum Met, to tone it down a little. The number on the can is 28140, and it is a match for paint code PS4.

The chrome is Spazstix Mirror Chrome, and I used Pactra Backing Black, RC304, then a light coat of Outlaw Black. It says to use an Acrylic based backer on the chrome, but I didn't see any bad effects to the chrome paint. I did test it on some leftover lexan before hand, though. This test should always be done, any time you are mixing brands or types of paint. A good rule-of-thumb that I have used over the years with painting models is, start with a good primer, then only paint in this order:
1. Laquers (RC paints, duplicolor, etc)
2. Enamels (Krylon, Rustoleum, Testors, Model Master, etc)
3. Acrylic or water based paints

If you change this order, you can have some pretty ugly results, from wrinkling to pealing. I once sprayed an R34 with True Blue enamel after Tamiya primer, taped off the window areas and sprayed a laquer clear coat. It all looked great until I went to peal the tape off, it took my clear coat in chunks with it.

Key here is to remember what you are using when painting. When you are finshed, if you plan on a repaint in future, take a sharpie and write on the under side of the body, somewhere hidden if you like, the paint used and order used.

It would be sad to find out you sprayed your Jeep Wrangler with Krylon and decide later on that you want to repaint with duplicolor. You have to remove the Krylon completely first, as any traces will leave an ugly trace once the duplicolor is applied. Always test first, and let the layers dry completely.

Sorry for being long winded, hope this helps some folks out.

Which is the light buckets that you use on this body?