Axial SCX-10 Body Help

[Gjriv]

Saw on rc sparks videos a scx10 with a forx f350 body, anyone know if this is the tamiya body modified to fit the scx10? Looked at proline and they didnt have one as far as I could see, id like to get the body just not sure who makes it and where to get it from, also whats the best way to get started in modding the scx10, links would be appreciated, thanks guys

[Rook82]

If you could post a pic of the 350 or a link to what you saw, it would us know what you are looking for. Tamiya does make a new(er) style F350, it is what is called a hard body. As it is made from abs or some form of harder plastic then the usual lexan most rc's are made from. I think HPI released and older 70's or so versions of F350's, one is a standard cab and the other an extended cab.

If you look through bodies on RPP's site you may find what you were looking for.

This is the base body from Tamiya. As you can see, you have to piece together the Tamiya bodies. Depending on how complete you want it, you will have to add grill, lights, etc. They are all available but can get expensive adding all of the needed parts trees they come on. You will end up with a lot of extra parts, but it is what you have to do in the Tamiya world.

Tamiya Hi Lift F-350 Body Front and Rear

I just noticed that on HPI's site they list the truck as a F-150. but in those days the bodies were all the same (relatively) and it was the running gear that changed. Today the F-150 is a total different animal to the F-350.

::HPI RACING::

Maybe one of those links will help you on the body search. For info on Your SCX, try the dedicated SCX10 forum on here. More info then you will ever need. Get you wallet ready...

Scale Rigs Brand Specific Tech - Axial SCX-10 at RCCrawler.com

[Gjriv]

RC ADVENTURES - Group Trail Run - 1:10 Scale 4x4 Trucks - Krazy Joe, Crawler Ted, JEM & More! - YouTube

thats the link to the video i saw the f350 body on, did some research and found that the proline body for the revo can be cut to fit the scx10, not sure how good it would turn out but atleast its a start, as far as the tamiya body goes, im intrigued because my scx10 i got 5 days ago came from the factory without a working front led assembly , and the esc wasnt even attached to the receiver box , so it just gives me a little more initiative to upgrade it and make it the way id like, ive just been getting confused trying to track down some good parts, integys site seems incomplete, or they just dont offer an aluminum axle assembly in black?, i hate to copy people but this guys got an awesome body setup, PRO-Line F-250 with Honcho Flatbed

[Rook82]

I wouldn't bother with aluminum axles. Not at all needed and may hurt performance. Plastic slides over rocks much easier then aluminum does. Aluminum tends to bite in and drag. Aluminum housings are nice for some very built vehicles that need the strength. I have never had a stock housing issue even on my 2.2 TTC rig. That is running a good amount of power (27t on 3-4s) and heavy aluminum beadlocks with misc 2.2's.

Good things to upgrade are:
1. steel transmission out drives (the stock aluminum is failure prone).
Axial Replacement Steel Outdrives for the Axial Transmission
2. Driveshafts. Traxxas shafts are a better plastic and hold up much better then the Axials. or better yet some MIP's

MIP Spline Set Center CVD Kit (SCX10)

Axle C's. These are adjustable if you need to adjust your pinion. You can then clock these to keep your caster correct.

Axial Aluminum C Hub Carrier, Black (2)

Knucles are always a good upgrade. There are many aftermarket versions. They will all probably be good. But for the previous axle C's I would stick with the Axial clockable version.

Axial Aluminum Knuckle, Black (2)

These things will give you a very durable rig. A good base part to build on. Then it is deck it out as you want for looks, etc. Good or better electronics are nice as well. If you will run in any moisture or mud I would suggest a Traxxas XL-5 speed control or better if you can afford it a Holmes Hobbies BR-XL. I run both in different scalers. The Holmes is by far the best speedo I have used. But I like the XL-5 for my bashers as it is waterproof and works well. No drag break but for the rigs I use it on it really doesn't matter to me. It's all in where you will use it.

There are so many other things you can do. One of the best things is just drive it and see what gives you trouble. You may find you may not need many upgrades. Many people over accessorize right of the bat and waste a lot of money. There are some things that give most everyone troubles but that doesn't mean you will have them.

Good luck with what ever you decide to do. Just have fun, that is the most important thing.

[Gjriv]

i really appreciate the info, ill take it to camp soon and put it through its paces at the creek, the guy at the hobby store told me to just run it like you want and when the electronics burn up get waterproof replacements, which makes sense in a way, i never plan on submerging it but i may run into a hole by mistake, any input on led controllers, thinking of putting a new one in and getting the proline roof rack with 4 leds and then wiring the stock lights into it as well, also i saw at gander mountain the other day what they call the go pro camera, what im looking for is some sort of camera to mount on the inside of the body and have an lcd screen strapped to my arm to watch whats going on from inside the cab while im running it, i think the go pro would work but im not sure. Heres the link for what im looking at, if anyone has expierience in camera setups i would appreciate the input. http://gopro.com/cameras/hd-hero2-outdoor-edition/

[MarkThomas]

Hobby shop guy told you to run it like you want to and then replace all the burned up electronics with waterproof ones? WOW. Either he is a total idiot or a total jerk.

You can easily waterproof what you have for pennies on the dollar compared to new stuff. In fact, DJMedic (guy from RC Sparks) has some good vids on waterproofing...as do many others on YouTube.

Don't go back to that hobby shop...please!